Patek Philippe Rare Vintage Dial Overview

quattro · 2026-03-16T13:33:52Z

Discover the unexpected Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 3798 with a unique sunburst brown and Tuscany dial. Explore community reactions to this rare, dressy-sporty vintage timepiece.

quattro

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

16 replies813 views13 photos

Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, brings to light a truly unexpected Patek Philippe dial, prompting collectors to reconsider their perceptions of the brand's design history. His detailed presentation of the Patek Philippe Ref. 3798, a variant of the Golden Ellipse, challenges conventional aesthetics with its unique blend of dressy and sporty elements. This article delves into why this particular reference, with its 'Tuscany' center dial and luminescent alpha hands, remains a fascinating, albeit polarizing, discovery for even seasoned enthusiasts.

Have you ever seen this dial before? For me, it's a complete and unexpected discovery.

Patek Philippe describes it as “Sunburst brown external dial, Tuscany center, applied yellow gold hour indexes”.

And, surprisingly, this dressy dial with an elaborately decorated center features luminescent alpha hands (an element of design I personally dislike).

The reference number of this timepiece is 3798.

It is a variant of the other oval-shaped Golden Ellipse ref. 3598, which is much closer to the original Ellipse and classic in style.

Here, there is a strange mix of dressy and sporty: a true UFO.

The watch belongs to the era when Ellipse watches had not yet become automatic.

credit: tw.bid.yahoo.com & @c4c_vintage_watches

This watch feels very strange and I don't like the luminescent hands, but I'd be interested to see it in real life.

How do you feel about it?

Best, Emmanuel

Key Points from the Discussion

The unique 'Tuscany' center dial, while unusual, is a seldom-seen decorated dial that adds to the historical diversity of Patek Philippe's designs.
Despite initial reservations about the dial, some collectors find that the watch's distinctive features, such as the curved marquis, could grow on them, highlighting the subjective nature of watch appreciation.
The combination of a dressy dial with luminescent alpha hands creates a 'UFO' effect, a strange mix of styles that sparks debate among collectors regarding its overall aesthetic coherence.
The watch's design, particularly its oval shape and decorated dial, leads some to perceive it as more aligned with a woman's watch, despite its historical context within the Golden Ellipse line.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 3798, with its manual-winding movement, appeals to collectors who appreciate the pre-automatic era of Ellipse watches, valuing this historical aspect.
The watch's quirky yet beautiful design is reminiscent of other brands' unique offerings, such as the Eberhard & Co. Gilda, showcasing a broader appreciation for historical design diversity.

The Discussion

mblum3

Mar 16, 2026

Given a choice, I do prefer the blue dial, but have a feeling that the other could very well grow on you. Liked the curved marquis (do you know any other references that have that too?😊. Also, as most pieces, there a lights that don't show off its best side, and those that do. I certainly would like to try it on!

quattro

Mar 16, 2026

Or course, I like the curved marquis, as you rightly expected I would ;-) And if I could, I'd love to see both a 3598 and a 3798 in person! The fact that both ref. are manual-winding versions of the Ellipse is very much to my taste. Best, Emmanuel

GLau

Mar 16, 2026

interested to see it in the metal for both versions ! The decorated dial is seldom seen ! Thanks Emmanuel for these discoveries !

cazalea

Mar 16, 2026

This looks more like a woman's watch to me, and it has some cosmetic issues on the dial, but I still like the overall appearance. Thanks for the excursion in the PP margins Cazalea

mdg

Mar 16, 2026

...maybe the filled hands for contrast so they don't get lost against the dial pattern?

quattro

Mar 16, 2026

I would also be quite curious to see this watch in the metal. Best, Emmanuel

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