Patek Philippe Vintage Hooded Lugs Overview
Vintage

Patek Philippe Vintage Hooded Lugs Overview

By quattro · Dec 19, 2024 · 11 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
11 replies3822 views92 photos
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In this insightful article, quattro delves into the fascinating world of 'hooded' lugs, a distinctive design element prevalent in luxury watches from the late 1930s to the 1950s. quattro meticulously categorizes and illustrates various hooded lug types, primarily focusing on Patek Philippe's extensive creativity in this domain, while also acknowledging contributions from Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. This exploration highlights a period of joyful exuberance and design fantasy in horology that remains highly collectible today.

Typical lugs consist of two lugs adjacent to each other. 

In contrast, "hooded" (or "shrouded") lugs consist of a single horizontal bar that secures the case to the strap. 

What could be called "semi-hooded" lugs consist of two regular adjacent lugs linked by an intermediate hooded section.

And what I propose to call "articulated hooded" lugs consist of a two-part structure, one belonging to the case, the other to the strap.

From the late 1930s to the 1950s, Patek Philippe and, to a lesser extent, Vacheron Constantin have produced an incredible variety of those lugs. And I just added some Audemars Piguet, which wasn't very much involved in this lug design, for the sake of the "holy trinity".

This (far too long) post (I know and apologise) is an ode to endless creativity, fantasy & joyful exuberance...

Enjoy!


A/ PATEK PHILIPPE

1/ HOODED LUGS

Ref. 1585
























credit: onbehalf


Ref. 575











credit: fabsuisse vintage watches 


Ref. 1438 















 credit: kibble watches & goldammer


Ref. 1408







credit: onbehalf


Ref. 574









credit: onbehalf


Ref. 544









credit: Matthew Bain


Ref. 482







credit: onbehalf


Ref. 144







credit: onbehalf


2/ SEMI-HOODED LUGS

Ref. 539


















credit: @johnbehalf & onbehalf


Ref. 540











credit: @johnbehalf & onbehalf


Ref. 1493







credit: onbehalf


Ref. 136









credit: onbehalf


B/ VACHERON CONSTANTIN

1/ HOODED LUGS

Unkown ref. from 1938











credit: classic 55


Ref. 4009







credit: hodinkee


Unknown two-tone reference from 1948





credit: connoisseur of time


Unknown reference from 1946







credit: connoisseur of time 


2/ "ARTICULATED" HOODED LUGS

Ref. 4083








credit: phillips & antiquorum 


Unknown ref. from the 1930s









credit: goldammer 


Ref. 4075







credit: @mimandcroket & antiquorum


C/ AUDEMARS PIGUET

World’s Fair watch from 1938 (part of Michael Friedman’s collection since 2003)



credit: revolution


Unknown ref. from 1938





credit: phillips


Unknown reference from 1940



credit: revolution 

About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 1585

The Patek Philippe Reference 1585 is a notable example of the brand's mid-20th century production, distinguished by its rectangular case design. This reference is part of a series that showcases Patek Philippe's expertise in crafting dress watches with distinctive forms, moving beyond the more common round cases. It represents a period where design innovation in case architecture was a significant aspect of high horology, appealing to collectors who appreciate historical design aesthetics.

This particular reference features a case crafted from 18k white gold, measuring 38mm in size. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing clarity and scratch resistance. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the ETA 2892-A2 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. It has a water resistance rating of 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for immersion.

For collectors, the Reference 1585 holds interest due to its specific case shape and material, as well as its historical context within Patek Philippe's catalog of shaped watches. The silver dial and leather strap complement its refined appearance. Its complications include a date function, adding practical utility to its elegant design. The presence of retailer signatures on some Patek Philippe dials, as noted in historical records, adds another layer of collectibility to certain examples from this era.

Specifications

Caliber
ETA 2892-A2
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
38mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
GL
GLau
Dec 19, 2024

Bravo ! Now I need a Patek hoody

QU
quattro
Dec 19, 2024

I think I could have a personal soft spot for the very special and charming ref. 482...

PA
patekova
Dec 19, 2024

And to have put it together at light warp speed is truly amazing! Again, thank you! Best, Patekova

MB
mblum3
Dec 19, 2024

So many beautiful things that I can't quite collect my thoughts. This creativity is not only by these companies of course. I have seen Omegas and Longines among others with great art deco designs. Even companies that are no longer with us had some striking designs. Thanks so much for another beautiful post!

WA
watch-guy.com
Dec 19, 2024

Two comments The ref 574 is the smaller version of the top hat ref 1450 That ref 1436 from Kibble has a horrible redial Love that you have included AP and VC models for comparison Thanks again ' Julian

QU
quattro
Dec 19, 2024

Digging into these references and trying to differentiate the types of hooded lugs was a real pleasure. Here are too more, found after posting (but exhaustivity is clearly impossible here). Best, Emmanuel PP Ref. 1577 VC unknown ref. credit: romain rea

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