Foversta provides a hands-on review of the Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic, positioning it as Patek Philippe's most significant launch of the year. The article explores the brand's strategic move to expand its ladies' mechanical watch offerings, addressing market saturation in men's watches and leveraging the established success of the original Twenty-4 quartz model.
Patek Philippe has just unveiled in Milan its latest ladies' watch, the Twenty-4 Automatic. Let's make no mistake about it: I consider this launch as the most important one from the Geneva brand this year. Because it is a collection that aims to generate volume and because it is dedicated to a clientele that must represent a significant growth relay.
Even for Patek Philippe, the men's watches market is saturated and the ability to find new "male" customers is far from being obvious. This is a bit of the perverse effect of the success of the Nautilus: the latter captures all the attention and new clients who go to the boutique to buy their first Patek Philippe want to acquire above all the famous watch designed by Gérald Genta. We all know the situation and they will not leave the boutique with another watch on the wrist. And since the opening of the floodgates is not an option at Patek Philippe, the situation stays still with a stable male clientele.
The industry is convinced of this: women are now perceived as a market with more potential because the equipment rate in mechanical watches is lower and they express more and more interest in this type of watchmaking. And for Patek Philippe, the stakes are twofold: it is not only a goal of growth but also of securing sales because the Twenty-4, the famous rectangular quartz watch presented in 1999, has become the years, an undeniable success.
A smartly thought watch ...
The Twenty-4 Automatic is not intended to replace the historical Twenty-4 but to complete it. Thus, the Patek Philippe teams made two major changes: first, the new watch is animated by an automatic movement, the famous caliber 324 SC found in many models. Then from an aesthetic point of view, Patek Philippe has chosen a round case with a diameter of 36mm which is, in general, easier to sell than a rectangular case. The Twenty-4 range is now much more diverse and effective in terms of customer "grid": shapes, types of movement, numerals (Roman or Arabic) and price playn on a broad range that is now addressed. Because it is important to specify that the starting price of the Twenty-4 Automatic is 23.660 euros in its steel version which is a price much higher than the first price of the rectangular Twenty-4 (11.010 euros). From a marketing point of view, the Twenty-4 Automatic is well thought out.
... and well done...
I had the chance to handle the watch and I was convinced by the seriousness of its manufacturing. The Patek Philippe touch is felt in the finish of the movement, certainly without particular difficulty but very neat, the presentation and the comfort of the bracelet obtained thanks to its flexibility, the sunray finish of the dial (on the version I could see), the applied numerals and some aesthetic details of the case. For example, I appreciated the integration of the bracelet into the case and the shape of the bezel on which the round gem-setting rests. The overall finishes are flawless, faithful to the standards of the manufacture and the clasp breathes quality.
The bracelet plays an important role here. It's a bit the link between the Twenty-4 Quartz and the Twenty-4 Automatic. It is the detail which creates the identity of the collection and on which rests the concept of Twenty-4: a watch that accompanies its owner in all stages of the day, whether at work or in the evening.
The other detail that contributes to this identity, although less noticeable, is the pair of main hands. Obviously longer with the automatic version, they keep the spatula shape of the original model. In fact, they now look much like the hands of the Nautilus which is a good point for Patek Philippe... and its clients!
... but too consensual!
Patek Philippe saw very well the strategic dimension of the Twenty-4 Automatic. And by the way, we can feel it. It is the usual problem of watches with an ambitious goal: risk-taking is generally outlawed and the design becomes, like the global luxury from major brands that should appeal in New York or in Shanghai, over consensual.
Consensual is the term we use when we are polite. When we are a bit rude, it is rather the adjective of boring that we use. I would not go so far as with the Twenty-4 Automatic: Patek Philippe is too smart to avoid falling into the trap by distilling here and there details that enhance the overall aesthetic. But from my point of view, the result singularly lacks audacity and energy and the watch looks too much like a calibrated product. The Twenty-4 Automatic is clean, well made, not unpleasant and comfortable: but I expect much better from Patek Philippe, which is the leading brand in the Haute Horlogerie segment.
An idea that could have been better exploited
I sincerely think that Patek Philippe has been too cautious and has controlled too many details. In a Twenty-4, context the brand could have gone further and fully play on the concept of the next 24 hours. If the watch must really accompany a modern woman, it must be able to adapt itself to all circumstances, offer a better water resistance (the Twenty-4 Automatic has a water resistance of 30 meters) and, let's dare the idea, propose a system of quick change of bracelets to be more flexible and adaptable ... as are our lives in 2018.
On this point, I regret that Patek Philippe has stayed too much on its immutable principles. The world is changing and so is luxury.
The true originality: the communication campaign
There is, however, a cultural revolution taking place at Patek Philippe. So, of course, I did not really feel it in the product but through the communication campaign. The video is for me successful and very interesting. It presents well the Twenty-4 concept, depicts an active woman in several very Western Europe atmospheres (the video was shot in Italy) which will seduce obviously an Asian clientele who wants to acquire a symbol of European art de vivre. And seeing the video, I felt the inversion of the classic message from Patek Philippe.
In the traditional approach of Patek Philippe (you are merely the guardian of the watch for future generations), it is the owner who accompanies the life of the watch. In the Twenty-4 campaign, it is the watch that accompanies the life of its owner. The message is less patrimonial and undeniably more contemporary. It's well played.
Conclusion: I was left hungering for more...
I am convinced that Patek Philippe will meet its expectations and that the watch will be successful. It remains well done and the strength and prestige of the name will do the rest. Nevertheless, I was expecting more from Patek Philippe. I don't forget that the brand is perhaps the most daring in its history. Who can claim to have presented more case shapes than Patek Philippe? Very little certainly. The Manufacture should not forget that daring and risk-taking attitudes have been the driving threads of its history.
The Twenty-4 Automatic collection is currently available in steel (23,660 euros) or pink gold (41,150 euros) with all cases featuring a set bezel. A model offers a bracelet with set edges.
Pros: + the seriousness of manufacturing + the performance and reliability of the movement 324 SC + the availability of steel versions
Cons: - a design which is too consensual
- the lack of modularity
This message has been edited by Baron - Mr Red on 2018-10-16 04:17:21
Key Points from the Discussion
The Twenty-4 Automatic is perceived by some as a 'dull and uninteresting product,' suggesting Patek Philippe may not fully understand the preferences of sophisticated female clients, particularly those who often purchase men's watches.
The introduction of more mechanical options for women is seen as a sound strategic move, as many women are increasingly interested in mechanical movements, though aesthetics remain a primary driver.
Specific design criticisms include the bezel's stepped design, the lack of a screwed-down case back at this price point, and concerns about the clasp's long-term durability.
The concept of modularity for the new collection is highlighted, with suggestions for more strap options like rubber and alligator in various colors, similar to Patek Philippe's Aquanaut offerings.
Some collectors believe the product does not align with its marketing campaign, suggesting that a Nautilus or Aquanaut would be a better fit for the price point and marketing message.
A collector shares their decision to purchase a different watch for a milestone birthday, indicating that the new Twenty-4 Automatic did not meet their expectations.
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The Discussion
CP
Cpt Scarlet
Oct 15, 2018
as sadly it has none of the design flair penned by the great man.
MC
MCG (Markus)
Oct 15, 2018
I did not know the video yet. Yes, I agree here as well. It goes in the right direction. BUT exactly here we have the dilemma! The product does not fit the marketing campaign at all! Here a Nautilus or an Aquanaut would fit... For that price I would certainly wait until a Nautilus would become available... But of course, there are people that don‘t want to wait... I believe there will not be a long waiting time here... 😉
WA
Walter2
Oct 15, 2018
Three things i dont understand and i think they can do it better. 1. I dont understand what the designer was thinking about this step in the bezel ? It vests very easily and i dont think it looks beautiful. 2. No screwed down case back in this price class ? 3. The clasp does not close perfectly when it is new, how it close after one year wearing ? What i like very much is the dial, the hands and the date at six. The bracelet also looks great.
PA
patrick_y
Oct 15, 2018
A superb review of a dull and uninteresting product. Furthermore, something that Patek Philippe doesn't realize; there are a large amount of sophisticated Chinese women clients, who buy MEN's watches such as the 5140R, 5297G for their own use. Depending on certain "bus-loads" of Chinese tourists, I've seen some busloads of Chinese tourists where the women bought more men's watches than women's watches. Patek Philippe might know this, might not know this; it's not always something that is realize
JO
jomni1
Oct 15, 2018
Anyone remember the Neptune. #gref
TO
tom2517
Oct 15, 2018
But Patrick don’t forget a lot of Chinese customers buy the name and not the watch itself. So it could still do well in the market.
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