Patek Philippe Sub-40mm Watch Discussion

Pretty Boy · 2021-02-03T05:53:49Z

Explore how watch size preferences evolve among Patek Philippe collectors. Discover insights on ideal diameters, lug impact, and the comfort of sub-40mm watches.

Pretty Boy

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

41 replies4622 views1 photos

Pretty Boy's reflection on evolving watch size preferences sparks a vital discussion for collectors. His journey from larger sport models to a preference for sub-40mm timepieces highlights a common shift in aesthetic and comfort. This article explores how fellow enthusiasts navigate the interplay of diameter, thickness, and lug-to-lug measurements, offering diverse perspectives on what constitutes the 'sweet spot' for wristwear.

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I started my watch collecting journey with Rolex sport models and wore even 44 mm diameter watches with corresponding thickness (Rolex and AP). Nowadays, I cannot imagine to wear a watch with more than 41 mm diameter, my preference being between 38-40 mm (depending on strap/bracelet configuration). Have your preferences as to diameter/thickness also changed in the course of your watch collecting journey? Best, V.

Key Points from the Discussion

Wrist size and lug-to-lug length are crucial factors, with a 36-40mm range often cited as a 'sweet spot' for many collectors, though some can comfortably wear up to 44mm for specific models like Speedmasters.
While some collectors have gravitated towards smaller watches, others maintain a broad appreciation for both smaller and larger pieces, emphasizing that personal preference can depend on mood and the specific watch's design, not just a rigid size rule.
The impact of lug design is significant; flexible lugs on a 44mm De Bethune can wear comfortably, while long lugs on a 38mm Girard Perregaux might feel disproportionate, illustrating that diameter alone doesn't dictate wearability.
Some collectors find watches below 40mm to feel 'flimsy' on their wrists, preferring larger diameters up to 47mm, demonstrating that wrist presence is a highly individual preference.
A shift towards smaller vintage watches can offer better value for the same 'horological content,' with preferences often settling around 38-40mm for sport models and 34-38mm for vintage and dress watches.
Despite a general preference for smaller watches, collectors often make exceptions for 'grail' pieces like the Patek Philippe 5970/5270, which typically range from 40-42mm, indicating that horological significance can override strict size preferences.

The Discussion

dedestexhes

Feb 3, 2021

And let’s be honest, the lugs can have a huge impact on what is comfortable or not. Normally my absolute maximum is 42mm. But my sweet spot would be the same as yours. However, I once tried on a De Bethune with the flexible lugs. I think it was 44mm but still wrapped fine around my wrist, still very imposing though. On the other hand, some Girard Perregaux have very long lugs, even 38mm becomes critical... Dirk

VinnieD

Feb 3, 2021

I did lean towards bigger watches some time ago, but never above 40mm. I tried a 47mm Panerai which was comical on my wrist: I did not buy it. Sport: 38-40mm Vintage and dress: 34-38 These are the ranges I am comfortable with The good thing with smaller vintage watches is that they tend to be better value for the same 'horological content'

Watchonthewrist

Feb 3, 2021

Still own some 42 but the wear smaller.

FabR

Feb 3, 2021

For instance, this beauty in the picture at 38.5 is simply fantastic (though I'm sure I would say the same for a 5231 of virtually any size ;-))

George Gently

Feb 3, 2021

I do however wear smaller watches, which fit my wrist (19½ cm/) just as good, like a classic Omega De Ville or a Lange 1. I even started my journey with a 34 mm Blancpain. Much depends on the lug to lug length as well as how the bracelet is protruding. Of the larger ones, like the Omega DSOTM Apollo 8 even 44,25 mm isn't a problem. To answer your question; my preferences haven't changed much over the years. I still wear small as well as larger watches. It all depends on the mood... Regards, Geor

Pretty Boy

Feb 3, 2021

5231J at 38.5 mm is actually the smallest watch I have ever owned. But I could imagine going down to 36 mm depending on the size of the lugs.

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