Patek Philippe Steel Complications: Rarity & Allure
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Patek Philippe Steel Complications: Rarity & Allure

By ImranLondon · Oct 11, 2015 · 19 replies
ImranLondon
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Miranda's exploration of Patek Philippe's steel complications highlights the enduring allure and rarity of these exceptional timepieces. This article delves into the historical context of steel Patek complications, from vintage perpetual calendars to modern chronographs, offering a unique perspective on their intrinsic value beyond precious metals. Miranda's insights underscore why these watches, once considered unconventional, have become highly coveted among collectors.

First I guess the disclaimer: I love Patek steel watches, maybe it's the rarity, or perhaps the fact that it's intrinsic value has nothing to do with gold or platinum , you could think of steel Patek's as the Purists Patek in that sense, well in my opinion anyway smile

If steel is a rarity, imagine how rare steel complications are, especially from the golden age of vintage Patek. In our journey, we will see that today we are very spoilt when it comes to steel Patek complications.

So, in the beginning..... now imagine this, a perpetual calendar, with chronograph no less..... and from Patek, incredible, but true. The ref 1518 was made it is believed in steel in four pieces only:
so even if you have the necessary dollars,euro,franc or what ever the currency is of your flavour, getting one is still pretty much impossible..








Pic credit Forbes

But hey it does not stop there, Patek also made some unique pieces without chronograph, again achingly beautiful, look at them now, because this is probably the only way we mortals can ever get to see them,







pic credit Christies


pic credit Christies



















There was also another piece unique in steel, I am not sure if they were special orders, or perhaps prototypes that were sold to the public







pic credit Sotheby's


pic credit Sotheby's

It was nou just perpetuals that were being made in steel, but more readily accessible were the steel chronographs, ref 130 and 1463, more accessible does not of course mean readily available, these are rare birds by anyone's definition







Ref 1463 with rare Breguet dial


Ref 1463 with rare Breguet dial






Ref 130


Ref 130

Now maybe these are too common for you, maybe you prefer a large case 35mm split second!











or maybe a unique medical steel chrono?









thats all folks......

well no, not quite, following the discontinuation of the 1463, there was no Patek steel complication. In fact I remember asking in the early 90's and was told that Patek would not make steel complications. But for what ever reason, and thankfully so, Patek certainly did make a steel complication. Now today we may mock this piece for it's design, (based on the 5080 Neptune, which was not a great success), BUT in the late 90's this was the ONLY steel Patek complication....the ref 5085/1a, no wonder then it was desirable. It was the first ever Patek to be manufactured in steel with a moon phase in serial production:










The 5085, gave to a monster, for the first ever, the Jumbo Nautilus had a complication with moon phase, behold the legendary 3712, retailed in UK for about £11,000, secondary market £17,000 (at the time of its release),
even today it is highly sought after











Of course the 3712, gave way for the 30th anniversary collection, the 5712 and for the first ever a Nautilus chronograph, the 5980 1/a. Both were highly desired, and this was the first time Patek offered a steel chrono since the 1463.

Today we have steel complications from the very high end of haute horology, the 5950 1/a, right through to the travel time 5164, and one of my favourite modern Patek the 5726



One of the seminal modern Patek has to be the ref 5004 perpetual calendar with split second chronograph. Highly desired and prized by collectors, I think Patek stunned us all with a special run of 50 pieces in steel: ahh if only I was a special one sad




















The 5004a could be seen as the spiritual successor to the legendary 1518 steel. Alas, I would never have been chosen for this beast, but I would have gladly have sold every watch I own to get this.......

the 5726....a beautiful Steel complication:















The nautilus was further expanded last year with the technically brilliant 5990, chrono
 with dual time zone:









and finally, a watch which I firmly believe will be a legend..... steel + chrono + annual calendar, in modern reiteration of the classic 1463.......what more can we want (yes I know, you want the bracelet off....well you can smile )





PIC credit Purists


PIC credit Purists


Hope you enjoyed this pictorial of Patek steel complications

please note: pics were either Christies/Sothebys, Patek here at Purists, or internet. I did not have the sources for all, but happy to acknowledge.

Best
Imran





About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 130

The Patek Philippe Reference 130 is a significant chronograph model, notable for its classic design and the various configurations in which it was produced. While many examples feature a standard chronograph layout, specific iterations, such as those with split-seconds functionality, represent a higher echelon of horological complexity within the reference. The model is recognized for its balanced proportions and the legibility of its dial, making it a favored choice among collectors seeking vintage Patek Philippe chronographs.

This particular example of the Reference 130 is distinguished by its yellow gold case, measuring 33mm in diameter. It houses a manual-winding movement, typical for chronographs of its era, and is fitted with a crystal, likely acrylic or sapphire depending on the specific production period and any subsequent servicing. The case construction and movement finishing adhere to Patek Philippe's high standards for precision and durability.

Collector interest in the Reference 130 is driven by its historical importance as an early chronograph from the brand and the rarity of certain dial and complication variations. The presence of unique characteristics, such as Breguet numerals, specific dial signatures, or the absence of a tachymeter scale, can significantly influence its appeal. The reference appeals to those who appreciate the foundational designs of Patek Philippe's chronograph lineage.

Specifications

Caliber
13'''
Case
Yellow gold
Diameter
33mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AL
alphabeta81
Oct 11, 2015

I remember when the 5726 came out. Everyone getting excited that it was like the " modern reiteration of the classic Stainless Steel Ref. 1526" and that it would be a great investment and a legend. Short history has proven that to be wrong. Very wrong. So I almost spit out the water i was drinking when I saw you call the 5960A, a great piece that I own as well, "the modern reiteration of the classic 1463" There is no 1463 classic DNA at all in the 5960A. It is a fun watch and I enjoy having it,

DR
dr.kol
Oct 11, 2015

The steel Pateks are closer to my heart than the platinum or golden ones. In my books steel is a superior material compared to the nobel metals. Many of the greats in your post are simply out of reach. The new 5960 in steel is indeed a great watch and somehow bolt, I would even call it arrogant. But the movement, even fine, is "nothing very special". It looks like we do not often get new steel watches and if something is made to the Grand Complication line, it is simply too expensive for a norma

AM
amanico
Oct 11, 2015

For its cool look, especially on a strap. Thanks for sharing the history of steel complicated Patek watches. I didn't know there was such a gap! To be read again... Best, Nicolas

DR
dr.kol
Oct 11, 2015

to convert 5960/1A to 5960A in a nice way. FedEx is bringing me this week one more strap made for this watch and on Friday I'll try to install that with a PP folding clasp. So let's see. But with bracelet or without, 5960A is a very nice every day complicated Patek and the face gives more and more satisfaction the more you look at it on the wrist. Best, Kari

IM
ImranLondon
Oct 11, 2015

I've never owned a 5960 but have a 1463, back in the early 90's Its closer than you think, if they discontinue next year or even year after, just watch,everyone will be wanting one Found on instagram sorry not sure who to credit, but a fantastic picture The other statement I have made, ready to be shot again is this is the new Newman It's marmite, and then I find this!!! Found on instagram sorry not sure who to credit, but a fantastic picture Pic credit iceman on internet The 5726 is a amazing p

GE
geross
Oct 12, 2015

Thanks very much. Wonderful post. Makes me proud that I own a few pateks. Cheers Geross

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