Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, delves into the fascinating history of the Patek Philippe Ref. 96 SC with a 'Somazzi Lugano' signed dial. His meticulous research uncovers the origins of this iconic sector dial and its connection to the esteemed Swiss retailer, providing invaluable context for both vintage collectors and enthusiasts of modern Patek Philippe designs. This article highlights why understanding retailer-signed dials is crucial for appreciating Patek Philippe's rich heritage.
In showcase
64 of the
Patek Philippe Museum, entitled "
The Second at the Center", sits this
magnificent watch with a
two-tone sector dial signed β
Somazzi Luganoβ.

The
movement was manufactured in
1919 and the
case in
1934.


As shown by these
pages from the
two museum catalogues I have, this is a reference
96 SC (for Second at the Centre).

And the
case is made of a β
non-corroding steel alloy marketed as β
Staybriteββ.
Other ref.
96 from the
same period with the
exact same sector dial can be found, like the following one, which dates from
1935.

Or this one, also from
1935, with a
dial signed with the name of the
Milanese retailer Hausmann & Co.
credit: onbehalf
This
iconic two-tone sector dial was obviously the
source of
inspiration of the
modern ref.
5296G-001:
credit: @pauldavidmaudsley
I
could of course
end the post here. But I
prefer to
delve a little deeper by researching
who Somazzi is and
whether there are
other pieces whose
dial is
also signed β
Somazzi Luganoβ or other important
collaboration pieces.
Well, first, Orologeria Somazzi was founded in 1860 by Stefano Somazzi and it is a family business that has been selling, repairing and restoring watches ever since.
It has retailed Patek Philippe timepieces since 1906.
credit: Somazzi
I have been able to find several watches with a dial signed βSomazziβ, but none except one with a dial signed βSomazzi Luganoβ like the example of the Patek Philippe Museum.
This exception is the following ref. 130, which, according to Antiquroum, was made in 1937, delivered to E. Somazzi, Lugano, on December 2, 1937.
The image is of very poor quality, but the dial seems to be signed βE. Somazzi Luganoβ, Emilio Somazzi being the son of Stefano, who took over the business in 1892.
credit: Antiquorum
Here are
other examples with
only β
Somazziβ.
A ref.
130 from
1947:
credit: Sotheby'sA ref.
96 from
1933:
credit: onbehalfA ref.
1516 from
1942:
credit: Christie'sA ref.
570 with
unknown date:
credit: Bulang & SonsAnd a ref.
3548/1J from
1972:
credit: 41 Watch
Finally, in 2010, Patek Philippe celebrated Somazzi's 150th anniversary with two special versions of the ref. 5296.
Both were limited to 15 pieces, each bearing the following text on the sapphire caseback: β150 anni Somazzi 1860-2010β as well as the number βxx/15β.
White gold ref. 5296G-013
Rose gold ref. 5296R-012
credit: Antiquorum
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 130
The Patek Philippe Reference 130 is a significant chronograph model, notable for its classic design and the various configurations in which it was produced. While many examples feature a standard chronograph layout, specific iterations, such as those with split-seconds functionality, represent a higher echelon of horological complexity within the reference. The model is recognized for its balanced proportions and the legibility of its dial, making it a favored choice among collectors seeking vintage Patek Philippe chronographs.
This particular example of the Reference 130 is distinguished by its yellow gold case, measuring 33mm in diameter. It houses a manual-winding movement, typical for chronographs of its era, and is fitted with a crystal, likely acrylic or sapphire depending on the specific production period and any subsequent servicing. The case construction and movement finishing adhere to Patek Philippe's high standards for precision and durability.
Collector interest in the Reference 130 is driven by its historical importance as an early chronograph from the brand and the rarity of certain dial and complication variations. The presence of unique characteristics, such as Breguet numerals, specific dial signatures, or the absence of a tachymeter scale, can significantly influence its appeal. The reference appeals to those who appreciate the foundational designs of Patek Philippe's chronograph lineage.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 13'''
- Case
- Yellow gold
- Diameter
- 33mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 570
The Patek Philippe reference 570 is a classic Calatrava-style dress watch, representing a significant period in the brand's production of time-only pieces. It is distinguished by its clean lines and minimalist aesthetic, embodying the traditional design principles that Patek Philippe is known for in its non-complicated watches. The reference 570 was offered in various metals and dial configurations, making each example unique within the broader series of Patek Philippe's round cased watches from the mid-20th century.
This particular example features an 18k white gold case with a diameter of 38mm. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by a manual wind movement, reflecting the common practice for high-end dress watches of its era. The water resistance is rated at 30 meters, typical for a watch of this type and period.
The reference 570 appeals to collectors seeking a pure expression of Patek Philippe's watchmaking heritage, particularly those interested in the brand's foundational dress watch designs. Its various iterations, including different case materials and dial finishes, offer a range of options for discerning collectors. The enduring appeal of the 570 lies in its understated elegance and its representation of a specific era of Patek Philippe's design philosophy.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 27 SC
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 1516
The Patek Philippe Reference 1516 is a notable example of the brand's early production of time-only wristwatches, distinguished by its clean aesthetic and focus on fundamental horological principles. While less commonly discussed than its complicated brethren, the 1516 represents a foundational element of Patek Philippe's mid-century catalog, offering a refined and understated presence that appeals to collectors seeking purity of design and mechanical integrity. It stands as a testament to the brand's enduring commitment to traditional watchmaking.
This reference features a 38mm case crafted from 18k white gold, housing a manual wind movement, the Caliber 1320. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing clarity over the silver dial. It offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours and is rated for water resistance up to 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for immersion. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the classic presentation.
For collectors, the Reference 1516 is valued for its straightforward design and the quality of its construction. Its appeal lies in its simplicity and the opportunity to acquire a vintage Patek Philippe that embodies the brand's core values without the complexity of additional functions. While specific dial variations or retailer signatures can add to its uniqueness, the standard configuration remains a significant piece for those appreciating the brand's historical output of elegant timepieces.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 1320
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe 5296 Ref. 5296
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 5296 is a notable example of a time-and-date Calatrava, distinguished by its classic round case and clean dial layout. It represents a contemporary interpretation of the Calatrava design principles, offering a balanced aesthetic suitable for daily wear while adhering to the brand's established design language. The reference is known for its versatility in material and dial configurations, providing options that cater to different preferences within the Calatrava collection.
This reference features a 38 mm case, available in 18k white gold, rose gold, or yellow gold, housing the automatic caliber 324 S C. The movement provides a power reserve of 45 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The case is characterized by a smooth bezel, contributing to its understated profile.
First introduced in 2005, the 5296 appeals to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe dress watch with a date complication. Its production run has seen various dial iterations, including silver, black, and cream, some featuring sector dials that add a vintage-inspired touch. The reference continues the tradition of the Calatrava as a foundational model within the brand's offerings, emphasizing enduring design and mechanical precision.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 324 S C
- Case
- 18k White Gold, Rose Gold, or Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Silver, Black, Cream
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. Ref130
The Patek Philippe Reference 130 is a significant chronograph model, notable for its early integration of complex mechanisms within a refined case. This reference is recognized for its classic proportions and the clarity of its dial layout, which prioritizes legibility despite the chronograph functions. It represents a period of innovation in Patek Philippe's development of complicated wristwatches, establishing a foundation for future chronograph designs.
This particular example, crafted in yellow gold, features a single-button split-seconds chronograph mechanism. The case measures 33mm in diameter, housing a manual-winding movement. It is fitted with a crystal, and the dial is characterized by Breguet numerals, distinguishing it from other iterations of the reference. The absence of a tachymeter scale around the outer edge further contributes to its unique aesthetic.
For collectors, the Reference 130 holds particular appeal due to its historical context as an early split-seconds chronograph. Variants of this reference, especially those with unique dial signatures or specific numeral styles, are highly sought after. The individual characteristics of each piece, such as the Cartier signature and serial number, contribute to its collectibility and historical importance within the Patek Philippe lineage.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 13'''
- Case
- Yellow gold
- Diameter
- 33mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Hesalite