Patek Philippe Second Acquisition
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Patek Philippe Second Acquisition

By JoshTheCanadian · Dec 22, 2022 · 14 replies
JoshTheCanadian
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JoshTheCanadian's decision to acquire the Patek Philippe Ref. 5212A-001 Calatrava Weekly Calendar offers a compelling look into the nuanced choices collectors face when presented with unexpected allocations. His detailed comparison between the 5212 and the 5226, alongside his existing 5205, provides valuable insights into how a watch's wearability and perceived 'preciousness' influence its role in a collection. This article explores why the 'divisive' 5212 ultimately won him over as a more casual, everyday Patek.

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This is one that I have always had my eye on and that has been on my wish list for a couple of years - although my AD told me that he has rarely seen these. I planned on the 5226 being my next Patek, but I got a call two days ago from my AD indicating that he got an extra allocation for the 5212. Initially, I said no - I literally have not given this watch a thought in a year or so. In response, my AD said to give it some additional consideration, check it out tomorrow in-person, and that if I wanted to pass, that would not be a problem. However, there was another guaranteed buyer, so I had to make my mind up with some quickness.

I spent the rest of the day thinking, researching, before ultimately coming to the conclusion that I would snag it. It is different from the 5226 but for me it fills a similar role - something that feels less precious that my 5205 and that will get more wrist time.

Without further ado:




This watch is very divisive - I know, I know, it looks like Patek used comic sans - but I find it utterly charming and quirky. I have a deep love for watches that are derided by others. The week complication is very odd and sort of rudimentary, but I think it is clever and I love calendar watches. I adore the 5 hands jutting out from the center, there is so much to look at. The case, with its welded lugs, is truly a pleasure and it is an incredibly comfortable watch on the wrist.

The 5212 feels completely different from my other Patek, the 5205 - the 5205 feels like a precious jewel, whereas this one feels much more casual and wearable and approachable. From a distance, it kind of looks like a sector dial. My biggest issue with the 5205 is my relationship to it - it feels precious and it has been reserved for specific occasions. Conversely, I do not want to take the 5212 off of my wrist. The fact that it is rendered in SS makes it extremely light, and it will not show as many dings as the 5205 - which, unfortunately, gets dings by looking at it funny.

Between it and the 5226, I am moderately torn - but I think I made the right decision. My AD relayed that he is expecting numerous 5226s next year, and he does not have a long list. But I doubt that I will add both to my collection. They fill a similar niche, and I am not too interested in filling my watch box with Pateks - especially when they are derivative.  I love that this is SS - which is unequivocally the better choice for a daily wearer - and it is an absolute strap monster. I already ordered a blue nubuck, which I think will be a great pairing.

Most importantly, I love that I want to wear it - that I am reaching for it. I often find it difficult to wear my nicer belongings, and I hate that such belongings often gather dust. But for some reason, I do not feel the need to keep this pristine - and I am not entirely sure I understand why that is the case.

About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205

Patek Philippe Reference 5205

The Reference 5205 represents Patek Philippe's annual calendar offering within the complications category. This 40mm timepiece displays day, date, month, moon phase, and 24-hour indication, positioning it as a multi-function dress watch that requires adjustment only once per year at the end of February.

The 40mm case is available in 18k white gold, 18k rose gold, or platinum, featuring a smooth bezel and sapphire crystal with 30-meter water resistance. The automatic Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H provides 45 hours of power reserve. Each example comes fitted with a leather strap and deployant clasp.

In production from 2010 to present, the 5205 appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's annual calendar complication in a contemporary case size. The availability across three precious metal options allows for different aesthetic preferences while maintaining the same movement and case proportions throughout the reference's production run.

Specifications

Caliber
324 S QA LU 24H
Case
18k White Gold, 18k Rose Gold, or Platinum
Diameter
40 mm
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
PA
patrick_y
Dec 22, 2022
Only buy what you love and can't live without! "Fashion fades, style is eternal."

I will admit I bought one or two pieces simply because they were available in a world where watches were unavailable. And now, a couple years later, I find I never wear them, nor do I find them extremely endearing. That being said, this 5212 really suits your outfit and if you dress like this often, then this watch really suits your style. You already mentioned your perchance for strap ideas too. I have a feeling this watch will quickly become a favorite of yours. It does look wonderful on your

JO
JoshTheCanadian
Dec 22, 2022
Very insightful comment!

It's funny, I actually do not care for the 6000 or the 6006 - or, for that matter, the 6007. This is how I dress on a daily basis. I do not own any Brunello Cucinelli, which I do not particularly care for, but I do love my sweaters - particularly those from Inis Meian - and wear a lot of corduroy, tweed, etc. I am also partial to lighter colored neutrals, and often wear whites and beiges. I agree with your overall sentiment, it fits in very nicely with that kind of look. Clothing is, and always

PA
patrick_y
Dec 23, 2022
And I realized I'm even more hypocritical...

I own a WorldTime too, and that has A LOT OF LITTLE TEXT all over the dial! Arguably even more than the 6000 and 6006. So who knows, maybe I'd learn to like the 5212. I personally find Cucinelli products to be way overpriced and only "normal" quality. But that's another rambling. Overall, if you told me you like lighter colored neutrals, lots of wool sweaters, Inis Meain kind of Danish and Island look (they're Irish, but the look has a slightly Danish look in my eyes), I would've instantly said

JO
JoshTheCanadian
Dec 23, 2022
My other Patek is a 5205G-013

The 5226 was surprisingly charming to me. It looked much better in person and had a very nice presence. So far, I have stayed away from fauxtina watches - and I think it is fair to say that the 5226 is leaning into that trend. But I cannot make my mind up about whether fauxtina is here to stay or whether we will look back on it the same way we already look back on the “heritage” brands of the 2000s, ie, heavy flannels, Japanese denim, etc.

PA
patrick_y
Dec 23, 2022
Oh I like this term! Fauxtina!

Fauxtina. That's the first time I've heard that one! Only time will tell for sure. But I know this much. I don't expect that I'll go chasing for it. And generally, I find good design, even modern good design, lasts a very long time. When I looked at the Octo Finissimo, I found it super modern, but I also thought, that would likely look good 50 years from now. Mid-century modern furniture like Eames, Van Der Rohe, Knoll, Saarinen, and Noguchi seem to have staying power. When I buy something, I as

JO
JoshTheCanadian
Dec 23, 2022
Funny you say that…

Because I own the octo finissimo in stainless with a silver dial!!

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