New Release
Chris7509 offers WatchProSite readers an exclusive first look at Patek Philippe's 2022 collection, fresh from a private viewing in Paris. His candid impressions and detailed observations provide invaluable insights into the new references, particularly the 5326 and 5226, helping collectors understand the nuances of Patek Philippe's latest offerings before they reach wider distribution. This article synthesizes his initial thoughts and the community's reactions, making a 2022 collection review evergreen for new enthusiasts.
I had yesterday the opportunity to see all 2022 collection in Paris (except the 1/10th and 5231) for about 1h30'. Here are some of my thoughts, which may not be fully consensual but i'd like to share them with you all + some photos. Note that the light in the Salon is not so good for pictures and all the watches are much better under natural light ...
All the watches i have seen yesterday are ranging from 35K€ for the "cheapest" (the calatrava) to 180K€ (the 5270), so overall none of them are cheap and yes we are at Patek Phillipe, so we can have some expectations.
The new ones : 5326, 5226
The new dials are nice but i prefer the "big brother» 5326 compared to the 5226. The reason is simple, the Calatrava is a mix of a non-so formal watch (dial, arabic numbers) put together with elements of a more "dress" watch - white gold case and with hobnail pattern on the side. I believe associating both sport and formal items are somehow missing the point and at 35K€, well you can have some expectations.
I personally prefer (and own ) a 6119G which is full on "dress" watch whith no 50/50.
Overall, i have found the 5326 more appealing because of the complexity, although i have also found some points i do not like in it. In particular the day / month register which are smaller than the ones on 5320 or 5270 which makes them very hard to read. Also the GMT mechanism even if innovative through the crown, well, i would have preferred to find a way to integrate some pushers :p
On the + side, yes the new movement is very nice and it is only found in the in line perpetual calendar, the regulator and this one.
The "salmons»: 5320G and 5172
I own an original 5320G, almost since day 1 of the launch so i may be a bit biased. After having a look at both, i m not fully convinced by the dial color change. For me it is more "copper" color than salmon. ( i have seen a post where we have side by side 5270p and the new ones and the color is different).
On the positive side, on the 5320G the Arabic numeral are "popping" out of the dial compared to the cream one, but this can be also considered as a more “aggressive” dial color.
For the chrono, no specific comment, but if someone expects the tone of a 5270P then they might be disappointed.
The nice surprise for me yesterday was the 5205 in rose gold and dark green dial : gorgeous ! I was very surprised but might be a watch for dressy events though.
5231P : champion!! An everyday watch without hesitation.
Also, you will see this year more and more calf bracelets, leather, and less and less alligator straps. I believe this is a “green” trend, but on the other side, I find that calf is getting much less patina than alligator, colors are less vibrant and I guess it will last less, too bad (especially when you see what you pay for those watches).
Talking about €, I have found that the 5231 price has raised by ~20K compared to the original J one. I would love that my salary has followed the same line (not even a curve at this level😊)…
I could not see the 5231 I expect I can see it in the Paris exhibition of rare handcrafts.
My post might sound a bit negative, I did not have yet the wow effect with this collection, still I have positioned myself for a 5231 and potentially a rare handcraft, so I'm still in love with PP but on some specific ones 😊.
The Patek Philippe Chronograph reference 5172 represents a contemporary interpretation of the classic manually wound chronograph within the brand's collection. It succeeded the reference 5170, introducing updated case proportions and dial aesthetics while retaining the traditional two-register chronograph layout. This reference is distinguished by its round pushers and a slightly larger case diameter, offering a modern presence on the wrist while honoring Patek Philippe's heritage in complicated watchmaking. It is a key offering for collectors seeking a pure chronograph function without additional complications.
The 5172 is typically presented in a precious metal case, housing the in-house caliber CH 29-535 PS. This manual-wind movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, showcasing its traditional architecture and finishing. The movement provides a substantial power reserve, ensuring reliable timekeeping and chronograph operation. The front crystal is also sapphire, protecting a dial designed for legibility with applied numerals and a pulsometer scale.
This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate Patek Philippe's commitment to traditional haute horlogerie and the art of the manually wound chronograph. Its design cues, such as the syringe hands and applied Breguet numerals, evoke vintage chronographs while being executed with contemporary precision. The 5172 stands as a testament to Patek Philippe's enduring capability in producing high-quality, in-house chronograph movements, positioning it as a significant piece for enthusiasts of complicated timepieces.
The charms include the heavy platinum metal, central blue guilloche and the dark blue (? with colour gradient when I examined it in person) city ring.
The “copper” dial of the 5320 is something I really want to see in the metal. Good luck with the 5231G and a rare handcrafts piece. Which one are you aiming for ?
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