Discussion
…inspired by a comment from Dr. Kol in another thread about the ‘yellowing’ of white gold vs. platinum. I have never been a fan of white gold, preferring steel for it’s durability and scratch-resistance. At the same time I have always wanted a platinum watch and wonder if there is a compromise? As a
…inspired by a comment from Dr. Kol in another thread about the ‘yellowing’ of white gold vs. platinum.
I have never been a fan of white gold, preferring steel for it’s durability and scratch-resistance. At the same time I have always wanted a platinum watch and wonder if there is a compromise?
As a golfer I know a bit about forged steel clubs. By hitting the metal with a strong press, the metal gets harder and denser. This is akin to the new process by which Patek is making the cases of the ref. 5172.
Does this ‘stamping’ process improve the hardness and durability of the white gold vs the traditional method? I am not a big fan of polishing and would rather not have to resort to that to keep a case looking good.
This does not answer the question of the yellowing of white gold, but perhaps this stamping method makes different in this regard? I understand (and I am often wrong) that PP has stopped the rhodium plating of white gold cases.
If not, I may have to wait for the 5172 to be released in either yellow gold, steel, or platinum before I consider taking the plunge.
Any expert advice welcome…
Best, m
The Patek Philippe Chronograph reference 5172 represents a contemporary interpretation of the classic manually wound chronograph within the brand's collection. It succeeded the reference 5170, introducing updated case proportions and dial aesthetics while retaining the traditional two-register chronograph layout. This reference is distinguished by its round pushers and a slightly larger case diameter, offering a modern presence on the wrist while honoring Patek Philippe's heritage in complicated watchmaking. It is a key offering for collectors seeking a pure chronograph function without additional complications.
The 5172 is typically presented in a precious metal case, housing the in-house caliber CH 29-535 PS. This manual-wind movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, showcasing its traditional architecture and finishing. The movement provides a substantial power reserve, ensuring reliable timekeeping and chronograph operation. The front crystal is also sapphire, protecting a dial designed for legibility with applied numerals and a pulsometer scale.
This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate Patek Philippe's commitment to traditional haute horlogerie and the art of the manually wound chronograph. Its design cues, such as the syringe hands and applied Breguet numerals, evoke vintage chronographs while being executed with contemporary precision. The 5172 stands as a testament to Patek Philippe's enduring capability in producing high-quality, in-house chronograph movements, positioning it as a significant piece for enthusiasts of complicated timepieces.
White gold used in watches is typically 18 ct. which means 75% of the material is gold. As we all know, pure gold is yellow. It’s easier to color 75% yellow to red that to white. Kari
I’m not a fan of white gold also because of the yellowish tint to it . You can see the difference between the white gold and steel in the below pic Wish patek made the 5740G in either a P or A . Iqbal crop picture
If they added a high % of Palladium (Platinium like), the color is much more like Pt. To note Laurent Ferrier uses WG with Palladium on his cases ;-)))
White gold comes in many variations, 18ct is used most often with rhodium layer on top. But there are so many variations it’s hard to tell. It will always be a trade off between durability, scratch resistance, color or hue and last but not least personal preference. But that’s all covered in the other responses. There is one consideration that’s not been mentioned. Some dislike WG because at a glance it’s hard to distinguish from steel. For others that’s just the positive. Some people who prefer
The 18k rose gold alloy used in FPJ movements is as hard or harder than brass. Charles Frodsham claims that by cold rolling their 22k yellow gold, they achieve the same hardness as an 18k alloy. It's not my area of expertise, but it seems very possible to have a harder (within obvious limits) 18k white gold made. It could be quite expensive, though!
but I don't wear it in rough conditions and so far don't see any scratches that bother me. Cazalea
This thread is active on the Patek Philippe forum with 13 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
