
Alex83's post dives into a classic Patek Philippe dilemma: choosing between the blue and white dials of the Nautilus 5980. His personal struggle, weighing the iconic blue against the 'clean and harmonious' white, sparks a lively debate among collectors. This discussion offers valuable insights into the aesthetic, historical, and collection-building considerations that influence such a significant decision.
Good evening dear Purists,
My dealer sent me a 5980 white dial to compare with the blue one I recently got from him and eventually swap it; I know the blue is more popular but I am really loving the white one...so clean and harmonious..
What would you say?
Cheers,
JR








The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980 was introduced in 2006, marking a significant evolution for the Nautilus line by integrating a chronograph complication. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus chronograph, presenting a sportier and more technically complex option within the collection. It maintained the distinctive porthole-inspired case design while adding a monopusher flyback chronograph function, consolidating the chronograph registers into a single sub-dial at 6 o'clock.
This reference features a 40.5 mm stainless steel case, characteristic of the Nautilus's robust yet refined aesthetic. It is powered by the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C, an integrated flyback chronograph movement that operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of 45-55 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 120 meters, underscoring its design as a luxury sports watch.
The 5980 appeals to collectors seeking a Nautilus with additional functionality beyond time and date. Its introduction expanded the model's appeal, offering a more intricate mechanical experience while retaining the core design elements. The blue-black gradient dial is a signature feature, contributing to its distinct visual identity. This reference was produced until 2014, making it a specific period piece within the broader Nautilus chronology.
I would keep the blue on this one. It's 'fume' style will keep the dial a lot more interesting for years to come than the completely neutral white dial. I DO love how the hour markers contrast on the white dial (I really like white dial watches, they're more versatile than darker dialed ones). BUT on this model, I would say keep the blue ;) Let usknow what you decide to do, S
wow that was quick Nico, I know you prefer the blue but, did you wear the white one for a little while? it really grows on you, during the day it radiates light and can sort out a formal dressing or casual. at night I agree the blue one recovers protagonism. Another thing also is that if you cross someone wearing a Nautilus it will most probably be a blue one, white seems to me a bit more special now days (how many years has the blue one been produced Vs the white one?).
that I do own a AP RO 15202 Blue dial; so I would make sense to have a blue and a white dial; would you go otherwise, ie white AP and Blue PP?
What would I say? I say go with whichever one you like more and don't ask others for their opinions. My opinion is suited for me. Not for you. Maybe ask for some facts. And the fact that should matter the most is this... The one you like more is? Your own personal opinion is probably the most important fact.
hence asked my dealer to send the white; curious however on the forum's thoughts..plus am pretty proud of the pictures! ;)
I am more of an RO person than Nautilus, but the white dial really stands out for me. (maybe because I am not a Nautilus purist!) I think the fact that you have the 15202 blue dial is a big factor, so get the white dial!!
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