
Thy1r's post on his Patek Philippe Ref. 3800 dual-tone Nautilus offers a compelling look at why this often-overlooked reference holds a special place in a collector's heart. His detailed observations on the contrast between steel and gold, the unique case, and the mesmerizing dial provide valuable insights for those considering or appreciating two-tone Patek Philippe models. This discussion highlights the enduring appeal of specific vintage references and the personal connection collectors form with their watches.








The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.
The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.
For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.
Now, the trend it to use a little more yellow gold and use 2-tone models (like the 5550P in 2011 and the 5496P this year). Maybe something on the basis of the 5711 in the future? We'll see.
Best wishes Alkiro
Like in outfits and clothes sector, the trends are made by the main actors whenever they want. If they decide to stop a trend and start another one, they do it quite easily. Now, do they want this in the watchmaking field? I think they want to widen the offer but don't want to make it too significant in the collections (and they want we buy new watches and not choose to go for vintage). However, I think I like seeing these 2-tone and YG watches again Cheers, Mark
Best wishes Alkiro
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