Anaroku shares a deeply personal horological journey, culminating in the acquisition of three Patek Philippe Grand Complications. This article explores his evolution from collecting Calatravas to embracing the intricate beauty of Lemania-based chronographs, highlighting the allure of platinum and black dial combinations. His 'mission complete' post offers a rare glimpse into a collector's ultimate pursuit.

The first time I bought a PP watch was ten years ago and it was a 5711. And for a while, I mainly collected Calatravas and sports models. Because I thought I would never use the complication of the watch.

However, after I took the plunge and got myself a chronograph (5170), apart from the functionality, I began to be more and more attracted to the beautiful case and dial design.

To be honest, I don’t get the Lemania movement right. However, their case shapes were spartan and bold, and I became more and more attracted to these models. Especially the combination of platinum and black dial (despite the fact that visibility is never good)
Bar index 3970EP is surprisingly rare
The 5970 is the first model that showed me the appeal of Lemania.

Having a 5004 was a big step forward for me

The 5070p is neither a grand complication nor a black dial, but it’s a big brother
[Identifying info eliminated --- FabR (moderator)]
This message has been edited by FabR on 2023-07-01 15:10:38
About the IWC Ref. 5004
The Patek Philippe reference 5004 is a highly regarded grand complication, combining a split-seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar. This reference was a significant offering in Patek Philippe's catalog, representing a sophisticated blend of technical mastery and traditional watchmaking. It was produced in limited numbers, making it a sought-after piece among collectors of complex horology.
The watch features a 36mm platinum case with a thickness of 15mm, housing the manual-winding caliber CHR 27-70 Q. This movement provides a power reserve of 60 hours and is protected by a sapphire crystal. The dial is presented in silver opaline, offering clear legibility for its numerous indications. The case is water-resistant to 30 meters.
As a split-seconds perpetual calendar, the reference 5004 appeals to collectors who value both intricate mechanical solutions and classical design. Its production run from 1996 to 2012 saw various dial and case material iterations, though platinum was a prominent offering. The integration of two major complications in a relatively compact case underscores its appeal within the realm of high-end watch collecting.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CHR 27-70 Q
- Case
- platinum
- Diameter
- 36mm
- Dial
- silver opaline
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5070
The Patek Philippe reference 5070, part of the Complications collection, marked a significant return for the brand to large-format chronographs. Introduced in 1998, it was the first non-perpetual calendar chronograph produced by Patek Philippe since the reference 1463, which ceased production in the early 1960s. Its design drew inspiration from a unique Patek Philippe aviator's watch from the 1940s, characterized by its prominent case and dial layout, yet reinterpreted for a contemporary audience. This reference established a new aesthetic direction for the brand's chronographs, moving towards more substantial case dimensions.
The watch features a 42mm case, initially offered in 18k yellow gold, housing the manual-winding Caliber CH 27-70. This movement, based on a Nouvelle Lémania ébauche, was extensively finished and modified by Patek Philippe, meeting the brand's stringent quality standards. It provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The dial, in this specific configuration, is black, protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The fixed bezel frames the dial, and the watch is typically fitted with a leather strap.
Reference 5070 appeals to collectors interested in modern Patek Philippe chronographs that combine traditional movement architecture with a more contemporary case size. Its limited production run and the subsequent introduction of variants in other precious metals contribute to its collectibility. The reference represents a distinct period in Patek Philippe's chronograph history, bridging vintage inspirations with a new era of larger watch designs.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.CH 27-70
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 42mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
The Patek Philippe reference 5711/1A-011, part of the Complications collection, is distinguished by its white dial, offering a different aesthetic compared to other dial variations within the 5711 series. This particular configuration provides a clean and legible presentation, appealing to collectors who prefer a more understated yet refined look. It represents a specific iteration of a well-known Patek Philippe model, recognized for its integrated design.
The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 26-330 SC movement. This movement provides a power reserve of 45 hours. The case is fitted with a sapphire crystal, contributing to its water resistance of 120 meters. The fixed bezel and integrated bracelet are characteristic elements of its construction.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in the evolution of Patek Philippe's offerings, particularly those seeking specific dial colors within established model lines. Its production run from 2019 to 2021 marks it as a relatively recent, yet now discontinued, variant. The watch's specifications align with Patek Philippe's standards for mechanical timepieces.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.26-330 SC
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- White
- Water Resist.
- 120m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5170
The Chronograph reference 5170, introduced in 2010, marked a significant development for Patek Philippe as it was the first serially produced chronograph to feature a fully in-house manufactured movement. This reference succeeded the reference 5070, transitioning from a Lemania-based caliber to a proprietary design, underscoring the brand's commitment to integrated manufacturing for its complications. It represents a modern interpretation of a classic chronograph layout within the Patek Philippe catalog.
The reference 5170 features a case measuring 39.4 mm in diameter and 10.9 mm in thickness, available in 18k white, rose, or yellow gold. It is equipped with the manual-winding caliber CH 29-535 PS, which offers a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back, showcasing its intricate finishing.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a contemporary Patek Philippe chronograph with an in-house movement. Early variants, such as the yellow gold reference 5170J-001, featured a pulsometer scale, which was later replaced by a minute track on subsequent iterations. The various metal options and dial configurations provide distinct aesthetic choices for collectors, reflecting different periods of its production run.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 29-535 PS
- Case
- 18k White Gold, Rose Gold, or Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 39.4 mm
- Dial
- Silver, Black, or Opaline
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 3970
The Patek Philippe reference 3970 is a perpetual calendar chronograph, a complication central to the brand's heritage. It succeeded the highly regarded reference 2499 and served as a bridge to the later reference 5970. The 3970 was produced over an extended period, allowing for several series and subtle variations in its design, making it a significant model for collectors interested in the evolution of Patek Philippe's complicated wristwatches.
This reference features a 36mm case, commonly found in 18k white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum. It is powered by the manual-wind caliber CH 27-70 Q, based on a Lemania ébauche, which offers a power reserve of 60 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a dial that typically includes subdials for the chronograph, perpetual calendar displays, and moon phases.
The 3970 appeals to collectors seeking a classic Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph with a traditional aesthetic and a historically important movement. Its long production run from 1986 to 2004 means that examples from different series, such as the first, second, and third, exhibit minor differences in dial layout and case details, providing distinct collecting opportunities within the reference.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 27-70 Q
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 36mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 25m
- Crystal
- Sapphire