iim7v7im7 celebrates the arrival of his Patek Philippe Gondolo 5124G-001, a timepiece chosen to complement his existing collection and introduce a new case shape. He details his criteria for selection, emphasizing a desire for a versatile white gold watch that balances dressy elegance with casual wearability, and an easy-to-set manual wind movement for a larger rotation.
Hi,
After an 8 week wait, my new watch has finally
arrived! I chose this watch to compliment my rose gold Breguet Classique
Automatic 5177 and as a new case shape for collection. I wanted a white,
noble metal watch that was somewhat dressy, but also would be at home when
dressed casually. A manual wind was desired but not required. I
wanted a watch that was easy to set-up as part of a larger rotation.
As I understand it, the Gondolo collection was
launched relatively recently by Patek standards; only about 20 years ago. It is
named after a line of historic pocket and wristwatches manufactured by them for
the Gondolo & Labouriau (a Jeweler in Rio-de-Janeiro) in the early twentieth
century.
This line of watches is Patek Philippe’s homage
to the Art Deco style that was popular from the 1920s’ to the 1940’s. The Art
Deco style emphasizes simpler geometric, cubist-influenced forms with certain
repetitive shape motifs that frequently come in threes, can utilize modern
industrial materials and contrasting colors.
The watch case is an arched,
softened-rectangular shape (not quite a tonneau) that is 33.4 mm wide x 43 mm
in length at the lugs x 7.38 mm thick. So it is similar in length to a
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Taile (42 mm) but slightly wider than a
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reverso 976 (29.9 mm) as a reference for those of you
familiar with those watches. Unlike a Reverso, the case back is not flat,
but is gently arched to match its owner’s wrist (Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945s
do this as well).
The 30-meter water resistance case design in its
front view is not really rectangular the stepped crown guards are gently curved
creating a shape that falls between a rectangle and a Tonneau shaped case. All
edges are radiused and all outer case surfaces are finely polished. The
straight knurled crown is somewhat small for a manual wind watch and is inset
flush with the stepped case crown guards with an embossed PP logo adorned on
its end. The arched case back has a shaped octagonal sapphire display
case back within a convexly arched screw down bezel.
The crystal has beveled edges, is arched to
match the curvature of the case and stands about a millimeter above flush. The
dial is approximately 21 mm wide by 27 mm in length. Patek calls the
color “vintage rose” but I would describe its as a pale satin-copper color
which contrasts against the white gold case and complements the light brown
hues of the alligator strap. The small second register is inset from the dial
and has a subtle concentric texture to it that catches the light. The gold
Feuille (leaf) shape hands are all matte black to contrast against the warm hue
of the dial. The printed chapter ring adds to the “vintage” style with
irregular spacing due to its rectangular shape with bolder decoration at each
5-minute mark. Playful black finished, gold Arabic applique’s adorn the chapter
ring and are also irregularly spaced to match arc of minutes/seconds. A simple
identifying company name and origin is placed below noon.
One of the aspects that attracted be to the
watch was that the design of its caliber was harmonious with the size and shape
of the case. This is not always the case with rectangular cases even with
many Calatravas, which have grown in size over the years. The elongated
octagonal Patek Caliber 25-21 REC PS can be seen clearly through the case back.
It is among Patek’s simpler calbers; being a basic hand wound movement
with a small seconds complication.
The 142 part movement is 21.5 mm wide by 24.6 mm
long and is quite slim at 2.57 mm in thickness. It has seven gracefully shaped
bridges, with their edges finished with typical Genevan anglage and faces with
Cotes de Geneve diagonally breaking up the form. Five of the 18 inset jewels can
be seen, black polished screws and the arrayed weights around the perimeter of
the Gyromax balance wheel. Like many modern movements, it operates at 4 Hz
(28,800 bph) and has a modest, slightly under a two-day (44 hour) power
reserve, so this watch is a “daily” winder. The watch is an excellent
timekeeper. According the “PP Seal” stamped on the caliber; its performance is
guaranteed by Patek (the watch and not just the movement) to be regulated to -3
sec./+2 sec./day.
The strap is a simple, 20 mm light
yellowish-brown alligator strap that is a bit glossy for my tastes so my dealer
is assisting me with getting a matte finished darker reddish/brown PP alligator
strap for the watch. The hue of the band is important to work harmoniously with
the dial color. It is finished with a simple white gold Patek clasp.
It is definitely a simple and unique piece that
pays tribute to a long gone era. A watch somewhat lost in time
aesthetically. It is not the Patek for everyone with its unusually shaped case
and tinted dial. It is a piece that is at home with a pair of jeans
having a beer with friends or under ones sleeve when wearing a formal business
suit. I also like the fact that you just don’t see that many out there. I
consider it to be a beautifully crafted, honest Genevan watch.
Bob
About the Breguet Classique Ref. 5177
The Breguet Classique reference 5177 represents an automatic entry within the Classique collection, distinguished by its 38mm case proportions and rose gold construction. This reference utilizes automatic movement technology within the traditional Classique aesthetic framework.
The 38mm case is crafted from 18k rose gold and houses an automatic movement. The silver dial provides contrast against the warm gold case material. Sapphire crystal protects the dial surface, while the watch maintains 30 meters of water resistance. The bezel design remains fixed in position.
Reference 5177 appeals to collectors seeking automatic movement functionality within traditional dress watch proportions. The 38mm case size positions this reference for those preferring mid-sized case dimensions, while the rose gold construction and silver dial combination offers specific aesthetic preferences within the broader Classique automatic range.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 777
- Case
- 18k Rose Gold
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 175thcollection
The Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Collection, launched in 2014, comprises a series of highly complex and limited-edition timepieces created to commemorate the manufacture's significant milestone. This collection showcases Patek Philippe's mastery across various horological disciplines, featuring a diverse array of complications and artistic crafts. Each model within the collection represents a distinct facet of the brand's heritage and technical prowess, designed for discerning collectors.
The collection includes models with a variety of precious metal cases, such as rose gold, white gold, and platinum, with dimensions and thicknesses varying significantly depending on the specific reference. Movements are exclusively mechanical, encompassing both manual-winding and automatic calibers, many of which are newly developed or highly modified for these special editions. Sapphire crystals are universally employed, and water resistance ratings vary by model, reflecting their specific design and intended function.
This anniversary collection appeals to collectors seeking exceptional examples of contemporary haute horlogerie and significant pieces within Patek Philippe's modern history. The limited production numbers and the complexity of the movements ensure their continued relevance in the secondary market. The collection includes a wide spectrum of complications, from world timers and chronographs to grand complications, offering a varied selection for different collecting interests.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Multiple calibers depending on specific model within the collection
- Case
- Precious metal
- Diameter
- Varies depending on specific model within the collection
- Dial
- Varies depending on specific model within the collection
- Water Resist.
- Varies depending on specific model within the collection
- Crystal
- Sapphire
