Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse: Reference Guide
Reference Guide

Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse: Reference Guide

By quattro · Nov 9, 2025 · 58 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
58 replies4128 views50 photos
f 𝕏 in πŸ’¬ βœ‰ πŸ”—

Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, presents a compelling exploration of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse, inviting collectors to weigh in on the critical choices of movement type and case size. His detailed comparison of the manual-winding Ref. 3848 and automatic Ref. 3738, complete with stunning photography, serves as an invaluable guide for both seasoned enthusiasts and new admirers of this iconic reference. Emmanuel's personal quest for the ideal Golden Ellipse provides a relatable entry point into the nuances of collecting these distinctive timepieces.

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Like many of us, I'm very drawn to the Golden Ellipse, and from my perspective, there are two main choices to make:

  • First: manual or automatic movement? If you choose a manual winding movement, you're limited to what I would call the extra-small size; if, however, you opt for an automatic movement, you have a choice between two sizes: small and large.
  • Hence the second choice, only if you choose an automatic movement: large or small size?
What is your personal preference?

Best, Emmanuel


A/ Extra-small manual winding: ref. 3848

Here is an example from 1979 which I find quite fascinating: 27 x 32 mm yellow gold case & brown "soleil dorΓ©" (golden sun), sometimes called "autumn" dial 









Note how the crown is designed for the daily winding ritual.

























As indicated on the certificate of origin above: manual-winding calibre 215:






credit: arbitro & Vintage Gold Watches London (last photo only)


B/ Small automatic: ref. 3738

Here is ref. 3738/100R from 2005: 31 x 35.5 mm rose gold case & brown sunray dial.

























Note how the crown is much thinner on this automatic model.







Automatic calibre 240 doesn't match the shape of the Ellipse case, but in terms of width it fits the case perfectly:


credit: 41 Watch (1-8) & Arbitro


C/ Large automatic: ref. 5738

Here is the surprisingly not so often seen 5738P-001: 34.5 x 39.5 mm platinum case & blue sunburst dial.



















Small crown, like with the ref. 3738:









Note how the 240 calibre is not only of a different shape than the case, but a bit small for it...




credit: The Watch Club London (1-4), The Watch Collectors (5), @kollectoor (6), @penny_watch_seoul (7-8), k2luxury (9-10), @therealwatchlover (11), @uhren.oedingerdel (12-13) & Hodinkee shop (14-15)

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 3738

The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse reference 3738 is a notable iteration within the Golden Ellipse collection, distinguished by its self-winding movement and adherence to the collection's distinctive elliptical case shape. This reference represents a modernization of the original Golden Ellipse concept, offering a contemporary yet classic interpretation of Patek Philippe's design philosophy. It is often recognized for its refined proportions and the integration of an automatic caliber, setting it apart from earlier manual-wind versions.

This reference typically features a case crafted from precious metals, with common variations in yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum. The case diameter is generally around 33mm by 38mm, maintaining the characteristic golden ratio proportions of the Ellipse. It houses a self-winding mechanical movement, specifically the Caliber 240, known for its ultra-thin profile and integrated micro-rotor, which contributes to the watch's slender silhouette. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal.

For collectors, the reference 3738 holds appeal as a sophisticated dress watch that embodies Patek Philippe's design heritage while offering the convenience of an automatic movement. It represents a significant period in the evolution of the Golden Ellipse, bridging earlier designs with later iterations. The various metal and dial configurations provide options for collectors seeking specific aesthetic preferences within this enduring model line.

Specifications

Caliber
240
Case
Yellow Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Platinum
Diameter
33mm x 38mm
Dial
Blue, Black, Grey, Gold
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
Nov 9, 2025
I hesitate between the 1st and the last, here. I would probably go for the last. White metal quand tu nous tiens... :))))

QU
quattro
Nov 9, 2025
What about a 3738G ? Would you still choose the 5738P ?

credit: Amsterdam Vintage Watches

AM
amanico
Nov 9, 2025
The smaller, the better, for me, when it comes to the Ellipse.

KM
KMII
Nov 9, 2025
I would tend to agree πŸ‘πŸ»

BR
bruckner4
Nov 9, 2025
One of the automatics, I think, quattro.

Though I'd like to feel/see them all on the wrist. Big fan of this version with the slate dial!

QU
quattro
Nov 9, 2025
I prefer manual winding movements,

but the 3848 might be too small. I will try during the coming months to see and try on different variants in order to get a better idea of what really works for me. Best, Emmanuel

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