Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, presents a compelling exploration of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse, inviting collectors to weigh in on the critical choices of movement type and case size. His detailed comparison of the manual-winding Ref. 3848 and automatic Ref. 3738, complete with stunning photography, serves as an invaluable guide for both seasoned enthusiasts and new admirers of this iconic reference. Emmanuel's personal quest for the ideal Golden Ellipse provides a relatable entry point into the nuances of collecting these distinctive timepieces.
Like many of us, I'm very drawn to the Golden Ellipse, and from my perspective, there are two main choices to make:
- First: manual or automatic movement? If you choose a manual winding movement, you're limited to what I would call the extra-small size; if, however, you opt for an automatic movement, you have a choice between two sizes: small and large.
- Hence the second choice, only if you choose an automatic movement: large or small size?
What is your personal preference?
Best, Emmanuel
A/ Extra-small manual winding: ref. 3848
Here is an example from
1979 which I find quite fascinating:
27 x
32 mm
yellow gold case &
brown "
soleil dorΓ©" (golden sun), sometimes called "
autumn"
dial
B/ Small automatic: ref. 3738
Here is ref.
3738/100R from 2005:
31 x
35.5 mm
rose gold case &
brown sunray dial.

Note how the
crown is much thinner on this automatic model.
Automatic calibre 240 doesn't match the shape of the Ellipse case, but in terms of
width it fits the case perfectly:
credit: 41 Watch (1-8) & Arbitro
C/ Large automatic: ref. 5738
Here is the surprisingly not so often seen
5738P-001:
34.5 x
39.5 mm
platinum case &
blue sunburst dial.
Small crown, like with the ref. 3738:

Note how the
240 calibre is not only of a different shape than the case, but a bit
small for it...

credit: The Watch Club London (1-4), The Watch Collectors (5), @kollectoor (6), @penny_watch_seoul (7-8), k2luxury (9-10), @therealwatchlover (11), @uhren.oedingerdel (12-13) & Hodinkee shop (14-15)
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 3738
The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse reference 3738 is a notable iteration within the Golden Ellipse collection, distinguished by its self-winding movement and adherence to the collection's distinctive elliptical case shape. This reference represents a modernization of the original Golden Ellipse concept, offering a contemporary yet classic interpretation of Patek Philippe's design philosophy. It is often recognized for its refined proportions and the integration of an automatic caliber, setting it apart from earlier manual-wind versions.
This reference typically features a case crafted from precious metals, with common variations in yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum. The case diameter is generally around 33mm by 38mm, maintaining the characteristic golden ratio proportions of the Ellipse. It houses a self-winding mechanical movement, specifically the Caliber 240, known for its ultra-thin profile and integrated micro-rotor, which contributes to the watch's slender silhouette. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal.
For collectors, the reference 3738 holds appeal as a sophisticated dress watch that embodies Patek Philippe's design heritage while offering the convenience of an automatic movement. It represents a significant period in the evolution of the Golden Ellipse, bridging earlier designs with later iterations. The various metal and dial configurations provide options for collectors seeking specific aesthetic preferences within this enduring model line.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240
- Case
- Yellow Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Platinum
- Diameter
- 33mm x 38mm
- Dial
- Blue, Black, Grey, Gold
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 3848
The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse reference 3848 is a manual-winding variant within the Golden Ellipse collection, distinguished by its smaller case size compared to its automatic counterparts. This reference offers a more compact wearing experience, appealing to collectors who prefer the traditional interaction of a hand-wound movement and a more understated presence on the wrist. It represents a specific choice for those drawn to the Golden Ellipse aesthetic but seeking a different mechanical and dimensional profile than the larger automatic options.
This reference typically features a case crafted from precious metals, housing a manual-winding movement. The design adheres to the Golden Ellipse's distinctive elliptical shape, a geometric mean between a circle and a rectangle. The crystal protecting the dial is commonly sapphire, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance. The movement is known for its slim profile, contributing to the watch's overall svelte dimensions and comfortable wear.
For collectors, the reference 3848 offers a distinct option within the Golden Ellipse family, particularly for those who appreciate the purity and direct engagement of a manual-winding mechanism. Its smaller size positions it as an alternative to the automatic versions, catering to different preferences regarding case dimensions and movement type. This reference is part of the broader Golden Ellipse lineage, which is recognized for its unique design language.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 215
- Case
- Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 31 x 27 mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 25 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire