Patekova, a seasoned Patek Philippe collector, shares his unique perspective on the brand's unpredictable product strategy. He delves into how Patek's seemingly oblique statements and unexpected discontinuations or introductions, far from being a source of frustration, actually enhance the thrill of collecting. His insights challenge the conventional wisdom of market predictions, inviting readers to appreciate the 'fun and adventure' in Patek Philippe's approach.
the company, I might have a clue as to what watches would be discontinued and what types of watches might be introduced. But frankly, I am clueless. Perhaps, whether purposely or not, oblique statements from the company can lead to certain conclusions that prove to be totally false. Also, often there are no hints or statements at all and seemingly out of nowhere a totally unexpected discontinuation or introduction appears. Also, more important keeps the competition guessing at what Patek is up to.
In a New York Times interview on October 18, 2022, the day the 5811/1G was introduced Thierry Stern, apparently referring to steel Nautiluses was quoted as saying “ We have made enough”. Ok, so why that very day was the previously discontinued steel 5990/1A gray dial replaced by one with a blue dial? I thought that reference was history.
In the same interview Thierry was quoted as saying “We’ll keep steel for sporty watches, mostly the Aquanaut.” And now we have heard that the supremely popular steel Aquanaut 5164A has been discontinued. Well maybe it will come back with a different dial or a slightly different case or maybe ….. I certainly would have zero confidence in any prediction I might make. Anyway, maybe it just was time to move on, simple as that.
One might think I am criticizing Patek for being unpredictable or for making statements that might lead us to conclusions that turn out to be incorrect. But I feel the opposite. Sometimes, one has to read between the lines to realize things might not turn out as expected. We had reason to believe the 5711/1A was done. But then along came the 5711/1A green dial. . Finally that seemed to be it. But no. Then came Tiffany 170th, but there were hints ….
I actually like their approach. It’s part of the fun and adventure, never knowing what’s next. It’s part of why we get so excited to find out what new watches will be introduced each March and why even though it might be a fool’s game we enjoy offering our predictions.
Ready to play the 2024 prediction game?
Best, Patekova
About the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990
Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5990
The reference 5990 represents Patek Philippe's combination of travel time and chronograph functions within the Nautilus collection. This stainless steel variant features a blue dial configuration, positioning it as a sports complication piece within the brand's portfolio during its 2014-2018 production period.
The 40.5mm stainless steel case houses the automatic caliber CH 28-520 C FUS movement, delivering 45-55 hours of power reserve. Technical specifications include sapphire crystal protection, 120-meter water resistance, and a smooth bezel design. The watch is completed with a stainless steel bracelet matching the case material.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking dual complications in a steel sports watch format. The blue dial variant offers color distinction within the 5990 series, while the four-year production window establishes its position as a limited-period offering. The combination of travel time and chronograph functions targets users requiring both timing and dual time zone capabilities.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 28-520 C FUS
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40.5 mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 120m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Patek Philippe Aquanaute steel Ref. 5164A
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5164A represents a significant evolution in the collection s history, introducing the brand s first travel time complication to the sporty Aquanaut line. Launched as part of Patek Philippe s expansion of the Aquanaut family beyond simple time-only models, this reference bridges the gap between the manufacture s renowned travel time expertise and contemporary sports watch design. The 5164A demonstrates Patek Philippe s commitment to bringing haute horlogerie complications to their modern steel sports watches, establishing it as a cornerstone reference that elevated the Aquanaut s status within the brand s hierarchy.
At the heart of the 5164A beats the automatic caliber 324 S C, a sophisticated movement that powers the dual time zone functionality with characteristic Patek Philippe precision. This caliber features a 21K gold rotor and delivers a power reserve of approximately 35-45 hours, while maintaining the manufacture s exacting standards for finishing and reliability. The movement enables intuitive travel time operation through pushers integrated into the case, allowing the local hour hand to advance in one-hour increments while maintaining running seconds and preserving the home time display.
The 5164A s design language perfectly embodies the Aquanaut s modern aesthetic philosophy, featuring the collection s signature embossed Tropical composite strap and the distinctive rounded octagonal case profile scaled to 40.8mm in diameter. The black dial presents exceptional legibility with applied luminous markers and the characteristic dual time zone layout, while the fixed bezel and sapphire crystal contribute to the watch s 120-meter water resistance. From a collectibility standpoint, the 5164A occupies a unique position as the sole steel Aquanaut travel time model, making it highly sought after by collectors who appreciate both the practical complications and the reference s role in defining the modern Aquanaut collection s expanding complexity.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 324 S C
- Case
- Steel
- Diameter
- 40.8mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 120m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
