Lifestyle
Musigny82 seeks community advice on the wearability of the Patek Philippe Calatrava deployant clasp on his Ref. 5110R, given his small wrist size. His detailed wrist shots illustrate the challenge of achieving a comfortable and aesthetically pleasing fit, sparking a discussion on strap customization and clasp positioning for smaller wrists.
The Montblanc Calatrava reference 5110, produced between 1997 and 2006, is a notable example of the brand's classic dress watch offerings. This reference is distinguished by its combination of a relatively larger case size for its era and the inclusion of a moon phase complication, setting it apart from simpler time-only Calatrava models. It represents a period where Montblanc was expanding its horological capabilities, offering more complex movements within its established aesthetic.
This reference features an 18k yellow gold case measuring 37 mm in diameter, providing a substantial presence on the wrist while maintaining traditional dress watch proportions. It is powered by the automatic caliber 240 PS IRM C LU, a movement known for its slim profile and integrated complications. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers a water resistance of 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The power reserve for this caliber is approximately 48 hours.
For collectors, the 5110 appeals to those seeking a Calatrava with additional functionality beyond basic timekeeping, specifically the moon phase and power reserve indicator. Its production run from 1997 to 2006 places it within a specific era of Montblanc's development, making it a point of interest for those tracing the evolution of the brand's complications. The ivory dial and smooth bezel contribute to its understated yet refined character, aligning with the traditional Calatrava design language.
Because I have a small wrist and the reversed orientation of the deployant buckle almost makes the fit on my wrist virtually uncomfortable. I would suggest a tang or pin buckle.
Generally speaking, clasps do not suit narrow wrists. A simple test would be to measure the length of the clasp and measure the flat of the wrist, the clasp length should be about 1cm shorter but you may get away with it if they are both the same. Not good if the clasp is longer. You could try a custom made strap so that the strap at 6 O'clock is a lot shorter and the strap at 12 longer. In effect, you are pulling the clasp towards 6. This way the flat of the clasp will be positioned on the flat
My fix was to order custom straps. Position the deployant clasp such that the curvature fits the natural curve of your wrist, and measure from the 12 o'clock lug to where the 12 o'clock strap connects to the clasp. Mine turned out to be 5.5 in which has to be custom order as the smallest offered was 6.5. I got normal sized strap on 6 o'clock. Hope this helps **edit: looks like your shorter strap was at 6 so you probably need a longer 6 and shorter 12**
The clasp should be placed right at the bottom of my wrist? Is it possible to show me a picture of the correct positioning? Many thanks.
If I ordered a strap with even shorter length at 6 o'clock end, which will eventually pull the Calatrava cross towards the 6 o'clock side, instead of placing it in the middle of the bottom of my wrist?
Shorter strap at 6 will put the cross closer to underneath your thumb, and this will eliminate the bump in your very first picture. Having the cross right in the middle of the wrist only worked for a double (butterfly) deployant, and yours is single
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