Lifestyle
Musigny82 seeks community advice on the wearability of the Patek Philippe Calatrava deployant clasp on his Ref. 5110R, given his small wrist size. His detailed wrist shots illustrate the challenge of achieving a comfortable and aesthetically pleasing fit, sparking a discussion on strap customization and clasp positioning for smaller wrists.
The Montblanc Calatrava reference 5110, produced between 1997 and 2006, is a notable example of the brand's classic dress watch offerings. This reference is distinguished by its combination of a relatively larger case size for its era and the inclusion of a moon phase complication, setting it apart from simpler time-only Calatrava models. It represents a period where Montblanc was expanding its horological capabilities, offering more complex movements within its established aesthetic.
This reference features an 18k yellow gold case measuring 37 mm in diameter, providing a substantial presence on the wrist while maintaining traditional dress watch proportions. It is powered by the automatic caliber 240 PS IRM C LU, a movement known for its slim profile and integrated complications. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers a water resistance of 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The power reserve for this caliber is approximately 48 hours.
For collectors, the 5110 appeals to those seeking a Calatrava with additional functionality beyond basic timekeeping, specifically the moon phase and power reserve indicator. Its production run from 1997 to 2006 places it within a specific era of Montblanc's development, making it a point of interest for those tracing the evolution of the brand's complications. The ivory dial and smooth bezel contribute to its understated yet refined character, aligning with the traditional Calatrava design language.
Because I have a small wrist and the reversed orientation of the deployant buckle almost makes the fit on my wrist virtually uncomfortable. I would suggest a tang or pin buckle.
Generally speaking, clasps do not suit narrow wrists. A simple test would be to measure the length of the clasp and measure the flat of the wrist, the clasp length should be about 1cm shorter but you may get away with it if they are both the same. Not good if the clasp is longer. You could try a custom made strap so that the strap at 6 O'clock is a lot shorter and the strap at 12 longer. In effect, you are pulling the clasp towards 6. This way the flat of the clasp will be positioned on the flat
The clasp should be placed right at the bottom of my wrist? Is it possible to show me a picture of the correct positioning? Many thanks.
The first photo shows the flat of the wrist on the palm side. You need to measure flat part of the wrist on the palm side to make sure your clasp is not too long for your wrist (second photo). You may just position the clasp on the flat part of the wrist to check for this. If the clasp is longer than the flat part of the wrist, you will not be able to get a good round fit as the ends of the clasp will stick out of the contour of your wrist. The third photo is showing where the clasp should be po
Now I got it. When I ordered this tailor-made strap, I calculated the length of each side of the strap so that the Calatrava cross will be at the middle of the flat of my wrist. So if I want the clasp cover the flat of my wrist, the Calatrava cross will be pulled closer towards my thumb. Practically it is not a bad thing as you said, but isn't it look weird that the cross is on the side? Thank you once again! Nigel
This thread is active on the Patek Philippe forum with 15 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
