Patek Philippe Annual Calendar: Mechanics & Beauty

KIH shares insights from a Patek Philippe seminar in Japan, led by journalist Mr. Hirota, focusing on the distinct advantages of PP's annual calendars and the aesthetic mastery of their cases and dials. This report illuminates why these timepieces are considered practical, durable, and enduringly beautiful by collectors.

I attended a seminar sponsored by Patek Philippe Japan and Chronos Japan at The Hour Glass Ginza where the well known watch journalist of Japan, Mr. Hirota, gave the audience some enlightenment of how PP's annual calendars are different and thus better in certain aspects.  Maybe you, PP experts. already know of these, but I thought it would be good to share what I learned in case you want to deepen your admiration for PP. 

In total, more than 130 Patek gathered at THG, and it is not everyday event to see so many Patek (new ones) at one place, so I want to share with you some wonderful pieces as well later.

There has been a series of topics why we love Patek.  And here is sort of related - why Patek is good, practical and long lasting love for us, discussed from the angle of its annual calendars, and the beauty of the case/ dial.

1. Base caliber's strength

There are two camps in the torque of the main spring - so-called "practical" calibers tend to release stronger torque for the potential higher accuracy when worn, while so-called "high-end" calibers tend to release less torque for the durability of each parts.  This is not the debate of good or bad - just each camp has been expected of different things.  Now, PP has been consistently making calibers with relatively "strong" torque release, but not strong enough to give stress to the parts to be worn too quick, but not weak enough to affect the accuracy when worn, since the time of 12-120, in 40s.  The latest 31-260 REG QA, for example, tries to achieve the goal of higher frequency and longer power reserve, while reducing the friction stress for the parts by using Silinvar (R) in escapement.  This strength of the base caliber makes it possible to put on other complication modules flexibly.

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2. PP's Annual Calendar

Most Annual Calendar movements uses its Perpetual brother movement, which tend to use a big "leverage" in its mechanism (to forward 3 days at one time).  Now for PP it was logical to take away this big "leverage" by giving up February.  In a nutshell, they do it with several wheels instead of big lever that occupies big space.
The pros for this approach is of course the less space for the mechanism and gives flexibility to modification and variation.  The cons are increased number of parts and thus higher price, and the more parts, the more potential for the parts to be worn out quick - PP responded to this problem by mirror-polishing the wheel, tooth, and cog to reduce friction.  As a result, the increased number of the wheels does not affect much to the overall performance of the caliber.  The oscillation angle is reduced by only up to 10 degrees at most.  This approach is not easy or cost effective and therefore many other brands do not take this approach and just modifies the perpetual calendar mechanism.

Wheel train -> Day (moon) disc -> Month wheel -> Date wheel -> 24 hours indicator

The wheel mechanism for 30-day month and 31-day month.  Much simpler and smaller than the leverage mechanism.

Actual photo.

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Now, why so beautiful?

1. Case

Patek cases are mostly made by forging, not cutting.  Rolex, Breitling, and Panerai are other brands who use forging for the case.  Cutting is, in short, cheaper as it doesn't need to make the molder, but at the molecule level it is still "loose" and wouldn't easily be made flat mirror-looking.  Most brands do use forging at some point, but Patek uses forging (except for SS case) almost all the way for wide variety of shape of the cases.  Rolex and Breitling, the shape of the case are relatively easy for forging and not cost as much.  Patek is really standing out in this endeavor.  See your face reflected on the side of Patek case, you wouldn't see much distortion.  (Of course there is always exceptions - very, very good one made with cutting is Laurent Ferrier, but it takes lots of talent and time to achieve that level, meaning, not cheap at all).

You wouldn't see much distortion (relatively speaking) in your face reflecting on the side or on the top of the lug,


2. Dial

Printing (e.g. logo) and painting are relatively thin, but take a long time for drying.  Patek dial is very distinctive compared with other brands - very thin painting, but very vivid.  Must be some secret in the process.  As for the logo or index painting, this white logo is very thinly painted but somehow it doesn't show the hint of the dial color.  They paint thinly THREE times.  The examples of Nautilus show the vivid painting but thin enough to show the base metal brush pattern.

The painting on this Nautilus dial is so thin that the unique pattern (brushed metal) on the base shows.

Conclusion (sort of): There is no “perfect watch” in the world, and there are of course weaknesses of Patek, as with any brand. But in total, Patek has less weakness in making watches with the aim to make it last long and spare no expense or labor to make look better, and that is why it is loved and cherished for a long, long time.

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Now, on to other pieces - novelties and new pieces.

Very, very beautiful for ladies.

Buguette buckle.

Obviously, not for me....

My favorite

39.5mm.  Very non-flashy, non-busy dial, and thin (for perpetual), in PT.  My kinda watch

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Special thanks: Patek Philippe Japan - Mr. Nagano, Ms. Otsuka, Mr. Kugaya
                             Chronos Japan - Mr. Matsuzaki, Mr. Hirota, Mr. Suzuki
                             The Hour Glass Ginza - Mr. Momoi and all the staff...

Thanks for reading.

Best,
Ken