Patek Philippe Anita Porchet Enamel Complications
Complications

Patek Philippe Anita Porchet Enamel Complications

By GLau · Apr 2, 2025 · 37 replies
GLau
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
37 replies8574 views2 photos
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GLau's journey to Geneva for a GTG with master enameler Anita Porchet offers a rare glimpse into the world of haute horlogerie's most revered artisans. This article delves into the critical role Porchet plays in preserving traditional enamel techniques, particularly for brands like Patek Philippe. GLau's personal account highlights the profound connection collectors feel to the human artistry behind their timepieces, making this a vital read for anyone interested in the soul of watchmaking.

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Links to previous GTG with Anita that explained her journey.

www.watchprosite.com

www.watchprosite.com


Knowing that I will be paying enamel homage, naturally I was double-wristed with her babies while traveling.  After arriving hotel and then a quick shower to get refreshed, I headed over to Palexpo to see Anita who had had to meet big collectors and brands.  We had a relaxing chat regarding personal and horological topics over non-alcoholic drinks.  She generously shared her history with Patek and views on the enamel industry. 


Her relationship with Patek started around 1994 with Mr. Philippe Stern engaged her for a specific project.  She mentioned that Mr. P. Stern had always wanted to preserve rare handcrafts from the distance past.  Prior to their business relationship, the famed enameler Suzanne Rohr made many amazing enamel pieces for Mr. Stern.  Based on articles I read, quite a few of Ms. Rohr's pieces went to his private collection and/or the Patek museum.  He is truly an adamant supporter of rare handcrafts.


In terms of artistic creation, Mr. Stern gave her a lot of freedom.  Since Thierry took over control, he has continued with the same philosophy as his father.  Enamel Queen said that she enjoys working with Patek the most !

 

For the Rousseau enamel lion, a rare handcrafts staff at Patek, who is a big fan of Henri Rousseau, suggested that Basel 2017 should have limited editions based on his paintings.  Anita then did her own research and came up with 4 themes from two of his paintings.  Here is the link to my original post about this series.   www.watchprosite.com  


On the horological enamel industry, Anita feels that the art is unfortunately being replaced by some brands via high tech and machines.  She gave an example for Flinqué enamel which involves guilloche then enameling.  The traditional way for her is to apply the enamel liquid by hand after manually making the liquid.  Thereafter she puts the dial in the kiln to bake and timing is based on her experience.  Sometimes dials are wasted due to manual labor.  Imperfections are also an integral part of the beauty of handmade enamel dials and she is proud of the results.  Nowadays some brands use machines to mix the liquid based on technical formulae, have machines to apply the liquid to the dial, and utilize engineering to time the firings in the kiln.  Resulting dials are perfect with wastage minimized which is great for commercial reasons.  However, to Anita, these machine made enamel dials have no soul and I totally agree with her !  I could see sadness on her face and hear disappointment from her voice as she showed her disapproval. 

 

After hearing this unfortunate trend, I felt very fortunate to have her enamel babies with imperfections !  On my 5131G and P, under the loupe I can see and appreciate them.  On the lion dial which is more complicated in terms of details vs 5131G and P, I could hardly find any.  With Lion at only 8 pieces with dial signed “AP”, the workmanship is at another level and simply amazing.


What do you think about the stories and thoughts/opinion from Anita ? 


Tomorrow I will go to the Patek Salon to view rare handcrafts.  Anita told me that two of her creations will be there.  More to come !




Watch by Patek Philippe, 175th collection, Handcrafts Collection, 5089, 5089G-128


Watch by Patek Philippe, 175th collection, Handcrafts Collection, 5089, 5089G-128


Patek 5089G-052
Patek 5131G

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5089

The Patek Philippe Reference 5089 is a series of Rare Handcrafts timepieces, often produced in extremely limited editions or as unique pieces. These references are distinguished by their intricate decorative arts, such as enameling, engraving, or marquetry, applied to the dial or case. They represent Patek Philippe's commitment to preserving traditional artisanal techniques within contemporary watchmaking, positioning them as highly collectible examples of decorative horology rather than standard production models.

These timepieces typically feature a precious metal case, often white gold or rose gold, housing a self-winding mechanical movement. The specific caliber varies depending on the individual execution, but it is always finished to Patek Philippe's exacting standards. The crystal is consistently sapphire, providing clear visibility of the meticulously crafted dial. Water resistance is generally modest, reflecting the artistic nature of the watch rather than its utility in demanding environments.

Collector relevance for the 5089 series stems from its extreme rarity and the unique artistic expression each piece embodies. These watches appeal to collectors who prioritize artisanal craftsmanship and exclusivity, often seeking out specific themes or decorative techniques. The 2019 collection for Hausmann & Co.'s 225th anniversary, for example, highlights the potential for bespoke creations and regional tributes within this reference family, further enhancing their desirability and historical significance.

Specifications

Caliber
240 LU CL
Case
White Gold
Diameter
38 mm
Dial
Multi-color
Water Resist.
30 m
Crystal
Sapphire

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The Discussion
NA
NautNut
Apr 3, 2025

I wish I knew if she did any of mine?

BI
Bill
Apr 3, 2025

sounds like a horological dream come true—her passion for preserving the soul of enamel artistry is truly inspiring. Your double-wristed homage to her masterpieces while traveling is next-level dedication! Those imperfections under the loupe? Pure magic—proof of human hands creating art, not machines. Can’t wait to hear about your Patek Salon visit and more of her creations. Enjoy every moment in Geneva!

99
997c4gts
Apr 3, 2025

Really amazing to be able to meet the artisan who creates your wearable art and talk shop. We went to the Museum last year and the journey through horological history is dotted with handicrafts. Rare Handicrafts tries to preserves these techniques and long may it continue, Gordon! I still use a fountain pen and drive a manual car, so appreciate the efforts of ‘old school’. Am waiting to get my first enamelWT 5231G. I recall there’s a chance it could even be initialled by her? David

QU
quattro
Apr 3, 2025

Meeting someone like Anita Porchet must be wonderful and of course she’s completely right about wanting to preserve real handmade enamel. I think true collectors will always make a great difference between the work of true artists and artisans like Mrs Porchet and industrially made enamel. Have a great time in Geneva. Best regards, Emmanuel

GL
GLau
Apr 3, 2025

Will be staying up late to post rare handcrafts after GTG 😅

GL
GLau
Apr 3, 2025

amazing experience with Anita ! 💪

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