GLau's journey to Geneva for a GTG with master enameler Anita Porchet offers a rare glimpse into the world of haute horlogerie's most revered artisans. This article delves into the critical role Porchet plays in preserving traditional enamel techniques, particularly for brands like Patek Philippe. GLau's personal account highlights the profound connection collectors feel to the human artistry behind their timepieces, making this a vital read for anyone interested in the soul of watchmaking.
Links to previous GTG with Anita that explained her journey.
www.watchprosite.com
www.watchprosite.com
Knowing that I will be paying enamel homage, naturally I was double-wristed with her babies while traveling. After arriving hotel and then a quick shower to get refreshed, I headed over to Palexpo to see Anita who had had to meet big collectors and brands. We had a relaxing chat regarding personal and horological topics over non-alcoholic drinks. She generously shared her history with Patek and views on the enamel industry.
Her relationship with Patek started around 1994 with Mr. Philippe Stern engaged her for a specific project. She mentioned that Mr. P. Stern had always wanted to preserve rare handcrafts from the distance past. Prior to their business relationship, the famed enameler Suzanne Rohr made many amazing enamel pieces for Mr. Stern. Based on articles I read, quite a few of Ms. Rohr's pieces went to his private collection and/or the Patek museum. He is truly an adamant supporter of rare handcrafts.
In terms of artistic creation, Mr. Stern gave her a lot of freedom. Since Thierry took over control, he has continued with the same philosophy as his father. Enamel Queen said that she enjoys working with Patek the most !
For the Rousseau enamel lion, a rare handcrafts staff at Patek, who is a big fan of Henri Rousseau, suggested that Basel 2017 should have limited editions based on his paintings. Anita then did her own research and came up with 4 themes from two of his paintings. Here is the link to my original post about this series. www.watchprosite.com
On the horological enamel industry, Anita feels that the art is unfortunately being replaced by some brands via high tech and machines. She gave an example for Flinqué enamel which involves guilloche then enameling. The traditional way for her is to apply the enamel liquid by hand after manually making the liquid. Thereafter she puts the dial in the kiln to bake and timing is based on her experience. Sometimes dials are wasted due to manual labor. Imperfections are also an integral part of the beauty of handmade enamel dials and she is proud of the results. Nowadays some brands use machines to mix the liquid based on technical formulae, have machines to apply the liquid to the dial, and utilize engineering to time the firings in the kiln. Resulting dials are perfect with wastage minimized which is great for commercial reasons. However, to Anita, these machine made enamel dials have no soul and I totally agree with her ! I could see sadness on her face and hear disappointment from her voice as she showed her disapproval.
After hearing this unfortunate trend, I felt very fortunate to have her enamel babies with imperfections ! On my 5131G and P, under the loupe I can see and appreciate them. On the lion dial which is more complicated in terms of details vs 5131G and P, I could hardly find any. With Lion at only 8 pieces with dial signed “AP”, the workmanship is at another level and simply amazing.
What do you think about the stories and thoughts/opinion from Anita ?
Tomorrow I will go to the Patek Salon to view rare handcrafts. Anita told me that two of her creations will be there. More to come !
Patek 5089G-052
Patek 5131G
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5089
The Patek Philippe Reference 5089 is a series of Rare Handcrafts timepieces, often produced in extremely limited editions or as unique pieces. These references are distinguished by their intricate decorative arts, such as enameling, engraving, or marquetry, applied to the dial or case. They represent Patek Philippe's commitment to preserving traditional artisanal techniques within contemporary watchmaking, positioning them as highly collectible examples of decorative horology rather than standard production models.
These timepieces typically feature a precious metal case, often white gold or rose gold, housing a self-winding mechanical movement. The specific caliber varies depending on the individual execution, but it is always finished to Patek Philippe's exacting standards. The crystal is consistently sapphire, providing clear visibility of the meticulously crafted dial. Water resistance is generally modest, reflecting the artistic nature of the watch rather than its utility in demanding environments.
Collector relevance for the 5089 series stems from its extreme rarity and the unique artistic expression each piece embodies. These watches appeal to collectors who prioritize artisanal craftsmanship and exclusivity, often seeking out specific themes or decorative techniques. The 2019 collection for Hausmann & Co.'s 225th anniversary, for example, highlights the potential for bespoke creations and regional tributes within this reference family, further enhancing their desirability and historical significance.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240 LU CL
- Case
- White Gold
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Multi-color
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5131
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5131 is a World Time model, distinguished by its cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of the world. This reference is part of a series that showcases Patek Philippe's expertise in both horological complications and traditional decorative arts, offering a functional travel watch with significant aesthetic appeal. It represents a continuation of the brand's long-standing tradition of producing World Time watches, updated with contemporary design elements and a self-winding movement. The 5131 is recognized for its intricate dial work, which varies depending on the specific metal and region depicted.
The watch features a 39.5mm case, available in various precious metals, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU. This movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours and drives the World Time complication, allowing the wearer to simultaneously view the time in 24 different time zones. The case is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring durability and clear visibility of the detailed dial. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The fixed bezel frames the intricate dial, contributing to the watch's refined profile.
As a World Time model with a cloisonné dial, the 5131 appeals to collectors who appreciate both technical sophistication and artisanal craftsmanship. Its limited production and the unique hand-finished nature of each dial contribute to its desirability within the secondary market. The reference fits into Patek Philippe's Complications collection as a high-end travel watch, offering a distinctive alternative to more traditional time-only or chronograph models. Variants typically involve different precious metal cases and corresponding enamel map depictions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.240 HU
- Case
- yellow gold
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- blue
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5089G-128
The Patek Philippe Reference 5089G-128 is a Calatrava model distinguished by its rare handcrafts dial, specifically featuring a grand feu enamel miniature painting. This particular reference showcases Patek Philippe's commitment to traditional artisanal techniques, elevating the timepiece beyond a simple time-telling instrument to a wearable work of art. The "G" in the reference number indicates the use of white gold for the case material, a common choice for Patek Philippe's high-artistry pieces, providing a subtle backdrop that allows the dial to be the primary focus.
This timepiece is powered by an automatic mechanical movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, allowing appreciation of the finely finished caliber. The case is crafted from white gold, providing a classic and understated presence on the wrist. The sapphire crystal on the front protects the delicate enamel dial, ensuring clarity and durability. The watch is designed with a focus on aesthetic appeal and horological artistry rather than extreme ruggedness.
For collectors, the 5089G-128 represents a significant piece due to its limited production and the labor-intensive nature of its grand feu enamel dial. Such pieces are highly sought after by those who appreciate traditional decorative arts in watchmaking. It fits into Patek Philippe's broader collection of rare handcrafts watches, which often feature unique themes and artistic expressions, making each example distinct and appealing to connoisseurs of haute horlogerie and fine art.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240 LU CL
- Case
- White gold
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Enamel miniature painting
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 175thcollection
The Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Collection, launched in 2014, comprises a series of highly complex and limited-edition timepieces created to commemorate the manufacture's significant milestone. This collection showcases Patek Philippe's mastery across various horological disciplines, featuring a diverse array of complications and artistic crafts. Each model within the collection represents a distinct facet of the brand's heritage and technical prowess, designed for discerning collectors.
The collection includes models with a variety of precious metal cases, such as rose gold, white gold, and platinum, with dimensions and thicknesses varying significantly depending on the specific reference. Movements are exclusively mechanical, encompassing both manual-winding and automatic calibers, many of which are newly developed or highly modified for these special editions. Sapphire crystals are universally employed, and water resistance ratings vary by model, reflecting their specific design and intended function.
This anniversary collection appeals to collectors seeking exceptional examples of contemporary haute horlogerie and significant pieces within Patek Philippe's modern history. The limited production numbers and the complexity of the movements ensure their continued relevance in the secondary market. The collection includes a wide spectrum of complications, from world timers and chronographs to grand complications, offering a varied selection for different collecting interests.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Multiple calibers depending on specific model within the collection
- Case
- Precious metal
- Diameter
- Varies depending on specific model within the collection
- Dial
- Varies depending on specific model within the collection
- Water Resist.
- Varies depending on specific model within the collection
- Crystal
- Sapphire