Innovation
Mark in Paris provides a comprehensive 10-year review of Patek Philippe's "Advanced Research" program, offering a valuable chronology of these innovative timepieces. This article delves into the brand's pioneering use of Silinvar® and other silicon-based materials, explaining their advantages and the challenges in their application. Readers will gain insight into Patek Philippe's commitment to horological innovation and its impact on modern watchmaking.
Following the thread I posted regarding the 10 years of the first Advanced Research related watch, the 5250P (patek.watchprosite.com) I thought I could sum-up the overall chronology of these very special watches.
The principle is that for each new Silinvar® part developed (Silicon-based material), a new Patek Advanced Research timepiece is released, housing the new part and all the ones previously unveiled (in different calibers to keep it simple...).
As you know, the main advantages of Silicon-based material are the lightness, the fact they are less subject to wear, there is no need of lubrication, they are amagnetic and they are not influenced by normal temperature variations.
The problem with elements made from Silicon only is that they may brake more easily than steel for instance. Furthermore, as we can't correct their physical state after they are made (can't be folded up), the difficult task for the research teams is to find clever ways (coatings, alloys, industrial crafting techniques) to balance these side effects.
First step: 2005
They started
with the escape wheel in the Patek 5250's 315 caliber (100 pieces).
Advantages:
- No lubrication
- Less wear (maybe more yet on the anchor's side...)
- Lighter (less inertia=less impact on accuracy because of shocks, less energy needed)
Second step: 2006
They added to the previous escape wheel the Spiromax which is the flat hairspring element of the program, in the Patek 5350's 324 caliber (300 pieces).
Advantages:
- Better isochronism
- Amagnetic
- Temperature compensated
- Lighter=less damage issues
The
technique used for crafting these hairsprings makes them all the same, needing
no individual setting and adjustment. In the other hand it needs very high
graded industrial techniques to get them perfect without needing any
correction.
Third step: 2008
Finally, two years after the previous elements, three parts added together:
To the two previous elements, the searching team added the anchor hence giving birth to the Pulsomax (name of the 3 parts all together), housed into the Patek 5450R's 324 caliber (300 pieces).
The beautiful 5450P which served to house the new movement:
It was also included in the Grand Complication 5208. The innovation is not only used in experimental watches but was also first added in this very complicated timepiece:
And later on to the 5235 too (thanks Julian for the reminder):
Final step (to date): 2011
And finally, the high-tech balance wheel:
To the Pulsomax launched in 2008, Patek has implemented the forth part, the balance wheel, to give birth to the Oscillomax display. It was integrated in the Patek 5550P's 240 caliber (300 pieces).
The goal of the new balance wheel is to keep the element as light as possible where not needed (in the center), in order to be less influenced by external movements like shocks, together with keeping a heavier external charge (by the mean of a gold alloy incorporation) to maintain regularity.
The caliber's construction allows to have a quite mesmerizing view on the new escapement feature:
The result in accuracy is significant when combining the four elements (more about this matter in Dje's post linked at the end of this post).
And as CH9698 underlined lately the three first watches were Annual Calendars as the last 5550P was a Perpetual Calendar.
You'll find here a very interesting post that Dje wrote in 2011 when the last version was unveiled, the 5550P: patek.watchprosite.com
And the final result:
I think we don't underline enough the investment and experience needed to come to that end with a usable product, hence something a brand can sell without being afraid it could break after several months. Finding the way to do is something, finding a way to make it reliable is yet another.
We don't
often see those important pieces so if you have pictures to share, please go
ahead 
Cheers, Mark
The Patek Philippe reference 5208 is a grand complication that combines a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar, and a monopusher chronograph. Introduced at BaselWorld in 2010, this reference showcases Patek Philippe's mastery in integrating multiple complex mechanisms into a single timepiece, distinguishing it as a significant offering within their high-complication portfolio. Its design emphasizes technical sophistication and horological innovation, particularly with the instantaneous jumping perpetual calendar function.
The watch typically features a platinum case, measuring 42mm in diameter, housing the self-winding Caliber R CH 27 PS QI movement. This intricate movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is sapphire, offering clear visibility of the dial and, often, the finely finished movement through a sapphire case back. The construction reflects a commitment to traditional haute horlogerie standards in both materials and finishing.
For collectors, the 5208 represents a pinnacle of Patek Philippe's technical prowess, appealing to those who seek a watch with multiple grand complications. Its combination of a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and monopusher chronograph places it in an exclusive category. The reference is notable for its technical complexity and the precision required for its instantaneous calendar function, making it a highly regarded piece among connoisseurs of complicated watchmaking.
I had the pleasure being invited to the gala dinner of Singapore Maritime week: The Minister of Transport had a long and inspiring speech and I sat between two Japanese ship owners who spoke some funny language to me. It had some similarities with English. I tried to look focused but in reality played with my watch in such a way that other (hopefully) could not understand what I was doing... Then I took my iPhone and took a couple of photos. Results of the dinner pictures are here: I'm in love w
Because, this is also what their watches are made for! They are indeed companion of every time of the day, when bored, being in a traffic jam, waiting for you train/plane/girlfriend etc... I imagine your pleasure, thank you for your warm comments and thanks for sharing so we can have a bit of that pelasure of yours. Cheers, Mark
as I needed a clearer view on what happened concerning that program. Thanks a lot CH', hope to see you soon. Cheers, Mark
... is so important to really appreciate those pieces. I love the idea of using technology, new materials, and modern means to improve traditional movements that have been the same for around 200 years. Great post!
This clarifies a lot of the info out there I think my 5235 also has all these 3 updates" Julian
It was useful for me too... Your wrist shot is very nice, you're a happy owner Jim: after the booklet, the watch! Wear it well please share more from time to time :) Cheers, Mark
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