Review
Small-luxury-world provides an in-depth, hands-on review of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5975 and 4675 multi-scale chronographs. This article delves into the design philosophy behind these unique timepieces, emphasizing their vintage appeal and the innovative Caliber CH 28-520 movement.
Tachymeter , telemeter, pulsimeter: Patek Philippe has returned to the source of the chronograph by creating a multiple-scale instrument with a twist. It is not their first chronograph (or shall we say instrument) without sub dials, even when it is quite uncommon – at least today. For those with paradigm in mind how a chronograph has to look like – think about it once more. If you still don´t like it like this, simply pass. It is a limited version anyway.
Still reading? Good! What
you can get here is a beauty with vintage appeal and even when it is like an
instrument it is kind of romantic – pre-electronic romantic 
There was a time when people wanted to calculate speed (tachymeter), measuring distances (telemeter) and measuring pulse rate (pulsimeter) – nothing more, nothing less. All of them have been romantic? No, they just asked for tools at that time.
Today: What do you think about a center seconds hand with additional flyback function and the possibility to keep it running all the time? Nice, isn´t it? To make it happen we need an appropriate movement and here we can trust the new caliber CH 28-520, which is not new in general as the automatic siblings are well-known.
What, a vintage inspired piece with an automatic movement?! Yes, as I said we need an appropriate movement for the features shown. Also I think the price would have been higher with a manual movement from the current production and therefore less people could afford one. Yes, even in that price range there is a limit- for some.
The case is slim for what it is and highly complex. The latter for example is shown in details like the screwed double lugs which are made out of two pieces (one of which extends from the case side and the other from the bezel) but polished in a way that you can´t see it anymore. It seems Patek´s cases tend to be more sophisticated than in the past years and I think this is a good move.
We have two different versions here – masculine and feminine, each with its own dial design.
Live pictures from the festivities, to start :
Ref. 5975
I managed to get a second look the week after, but only the J version I saw without plastic. All have been available, but I had to choose one because of limited time.
Here we go with my favorite version in yellow gold, if we talk about 5975:
To me it is always important to take live pictures, because I want to show the “real thing” – as good as possible, for those who have no chance to see it in the metal at all.
Nonetheless I like to use press pictures as well, for completion.
No matter if you prefer live or press pictures. What do you think about the case?
To me it is beautiful and wearable.
The back is nicely done and no surprise for those who know PP and their anniversary pieces – good or bad.
The engraved folding clasp
is well executed, but too much for my taste. To each his own
On the wrist it felt very good and I really could get used to it – even long-term.
To me the beauty is in the details – the design of the case and the all-over execution. The J version represents the vintage spirit very well and its readability is better than compared to the highly desired P version.
Ref. 4675
As before, I had to choose one again. It was easy for me as I have a serious weakness for the white gold one.
37mm diameter, chronograph, diamond baguette markers … - this could have been the perfect piece for a classical gentleman. Only that it is not shown with a platinum case, is uncommon for (vintage) Patek´s. Quite a few superb pieces from the past can be found in the literature about PP.
Unfortunately it is meant
to be feminine, today. Paradigm only?
Will it be more masculine if we put it on a dark grey or brown strap? It is just
a thought, yes just a thought
Hands-on - is addictive and the back is executed like you would expect it, even when some would prefer a sapphire back. Hey it´s a Patek and it is a classical anniversary piece, better get used to it.
The crown is no surprise and so is the shape of the case, as it looks almost like the 5975. Almost, because it is 0,15mm slimmer and the diameter is 3mm less. Still it is relatively slim for what it is and I would call it classical style.
Most of the time I prefer some added matt finishing on the case, but this time it is fine for me without. The pushers look nice, but I had no chance to test the pushers feel – non-working prototype you know. My guess regarding the feeling of the pushers, it is close to what we know from other automatic chronographs from the family – precise and crisp, but not perfect if I am super picky.
On the wrist, even on mine (not feminine), it felt superb. Couldn´t ask a woman to try it, because there was none available when I took the pictures. All I can do for you is to show it on mine.
Context :
I couldn´t find a PP with a dial like this – not in the PP museum and not in the books I have. Multi-scale chronographs, there are quite a lot if we go vintage. Without sub dials me couldn´t find that many and PP did only one (best to my knowledge) – THE one, for some. But that is another story and I would just like to add it here, for your pleasure.
(World time wrist chronograph with pulsometric scale from 1940)
Conclusion :
All the watches discussed above share vintage inspiration, bring a sophisticated case to the table and are (relatively) understated – even those with diamonds. Also the Patek Philippe logo is not as big as in some current regular production models. In fact it is almost tiny and I love it like that.
Once more the winner in my
book is the feminine version. Is it because of the head of design is female and
brings additional attention to watches for her? I don´t have the answer, but I
start to envy the ladies.
Best,
Oliver
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.
The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.
For one so far away with no access to these pices , I really appreciate all the information you have gathered and sorted through to give us the essence of these pieces. I will hold judgement but I fear I am already smitten by the plat piece. I would love to see these pieces IRL before I plonk $$$ down . However these detailed reports goo some ways to making any decision. Currently if was offered a plat piece , I would take it sight unseen, The YG and WG pieces look great as well. Thanks again Ju
Sublime! Thanks, Oliver. Best, Nicolas
......perfectly. Yes, Patek have created an "instrument" here. In my initial reaction I called it a purity of form. Nothing more. Nothing less. It is as it is. You either like it or you dont. I think the dial aesthetic is beautiful to my eye. I think the case design is similarly beautiful. I have no doubt that this watch on the wrist will be breath-taking. Now, would I split hair to argue that it should have been a manual movement? Possibly. I dont think the extra-cost is a good reason to not ha
One can watch a classic brand making watches on and on again, on the basis of an unchanged patern or stricly following some editing combinations seen in the past. Or he can accept different matching constructions and remember that, before the old 40's, 60's or 80's evolutions existed, they were considered as novelties at the time they appeared. We can't judge forever, from now on, the novelties with what happened during the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries only. Concerning the 5975's dial, somethin
you in your home and me in mine. I fell in love with this piece too and tried to apply for the Pt one or the WG I like too, but it seems that they were all already sold during the presentation week. Hope a new familly with this case will show up in the collection in the future. Cheers, Mark
.....i was more hopeful than expecting......but I could easily have seen myself with the Pt on my wrist!!
This thread is active on the Patek Philippe forum with 10 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
