Patek Philippe 5740/1G: Perpetual Calendar Guide

First, I'm a Nautilus guy. So pinch of salt required. Many of us have long speculated on the eventual introduction of a Nautilus PC. I suspect many of my fellow collectors will tip the hat at its arrival, and with this introduction opinions will differ across all aspects of the final design and implementation. Across the spectrum (e.g., three vs four subdials, dial tone, price, etc.) there certainly is sufficient material for interesting debate, but I'll focus my comments on what I suspect to be the most contentious decision: metal, specifically white gold.

I've been batting this question back and forth in my own mind for some time, trying to reach my personal conclusion on the matter by creating my dream virtual Nautilus PC. Platinum, white gold, rose gold, yellow gold (!), steel, "exotic" / Ti, etc. All but three I dismissed for obvious reasons. The remainder - platinum, white gold, steel - each has its merits and issues; as no more than food for thought I'll offer my take below.

For those who are already tired of my drivel, the short answer first: I think as designed, in white gold, the 5740/1G is the ideal PC Nautilus for PP.

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I consider the 5740/1G to be the Grand Dame, top of the Nautilus pecking order but for the occasional limited editions (think the current 40th and future 50th). As such, IMO the choice to manufacture in white gold was a fait accompli: the limited run and 40th 5711/1P have the edge on her in metal (P vs G) and the 40th 5976/1G has the edge in pure, physical mass (more grams), while the 5740/1G has the edge on all other Nautili in movement (and, while not necessarily better or worse, it's dial tone appears akin to that of the anniversary pieces, a further distinction). White gold slots the 5740/1G perfectly in the Nautilus hierarchy

Further, and perhaps more relevant to a wearer of any of these, in my experience white gold provides a beautiful yet subtle classiness given its color tone, which is absent in steel. No question steel is the sportier choice, and no question the Nautilus's history is one of "sports" watch (loosely defined), but make no mistake PP has noticed how consumers increasingly are comfortable wearing their sporty option (whether PP or another maison) in less-sporty and even formal occasions. I know I do despite a few other historically more appropriate options. The 5740/1G is exactly as advertised: "elegance."

Finally, I believe white gold provides the necessary, but not excessive, heft to ensure a noticeable yet comfortable wear on the wrist, while its tone promotes just enough "look at me, I'm special" both for the wearer and her/his audience. Given the 5740/1G svelte dimensions relative to other Naughties in the lineup, white gold ensures this reference wears "bigger" than the well proportioned, but arguably understated 5712/1A. Similar dimensions, greater mass, greater awareness by owner and others. Conversely, the decision to manufacture in gold rather than platinum ensures the 5740/1G wears smaller than its big / senior brethren, the 5711/1P and 5976/1G, befitting and showcasing its stunning movement and case dimensions. While I'm prone to wearing my 5976/1G daily and find it perfectly comfortable, I appreciate it's size and weight may deter others. The 5740/1G goes some way in addressing this concern while hitting the objectives above. In fact, I expect it to wear more comfortably than the 5990/1A and perhaps even the 5980/1A, a result of it's meaningfully smaller case size and therefore very different distribution of weight (case to bracelet).

With all that, I'm very happy with this introduction from PP, a fine balance of various and perhaps occasionally competing objectives. Of course, this is just my two cents; I look forward to the discussion I hope this sparks.