Patek Philippe 5711/1R Nautilus Rose Gold Review

Gentlemen,

I remember when, each year, we get to play “Guess what Patek Philippe will be unveiling for the upcoming Basel fair?”

Both last year and this year, I mentioned the bracelet 5711 reference in a rose gold version.

The 5980 was already available in this metal but it is quite a different watch compared to a much slimmer 5711 or 5712. You don't wear them necessarily the same way, one being much sportier and the other one more "dressy". Hence, in my mind, Patek was missing a bracelet rose gold reference in the catalogue.

Now that finally the Patek Philippe 5711/1R is available, let's have a look at it.





THE CASE WORK

A rose gold watch compared to a white metal one is always very different: much warmer, looking more luxurious and looking so nice with either casual or suit outfits. In some parts of the world, wearers prefer a more discrete look, thus steel, white gold and platinum. I think it is such a shame as the colored gold is much more interesting, impressive and fun to wear. You can wear one with any simple clothes and it can be cool enough. You can wear it with a nice shirt, a jacket and it will look so elegant (as long as you don't overload it with other strong stuff).





Even if, for some other areas, special decorations can be available (diamond-set cases, polished bracelets...) to satisfy other tastes and cultures, a watch from Patek Philippe is expected to remain elegant; always with a classic touch.

In the Nautilus collection, the 5980 is already available in full rose gold (with a black gradient dial which looks a very little warmer due to rose gold's reflection) or in a two-tone steel/RG outfit (with a very unusual dark blue dial). It looks completely different because of the size mainly, more sporty with more "presence".

Of course, in rose gold the new 5711 is a little more visible and spectacular than in steel but Patek's rose gold is quite soft in terms of color compared to other brands and the dial color choice, less contrasted than with a blue, black or white one, is also more "retro". Wearing it can really be, from my point of view, a very elegant and tasteful way of living.





The bracelet is very hard to craft and needs a lot of work. So are the different parts of the case. The case, bezel and bracelet work and their decoration in a Nautilus watch with a bracelet are quite rare in the market today. The way each link is brushed or polished, the way they so closely and perfectly interlock, and the way they are beveled on the side edges lead to an amazing result. That is a very significant asset of this Nautilus line-up.





Overall, on a strictly visual and aesthetical standpoint, I think that the combination of polished and brushed surfaces as well, as the nice link anglage, combine with such fine taste that I don't see a real contender that can offer such an elegant and outstanding result. As an illustration, you can see how beautiful are both case hinges.

I don't know why but it seems to me that these different surfaces merge on the R version to produce a more visible contrast than on the steel bracelet.





Finally, I didn't take pictures of the deploying buckle but it remains thin (3 parts), cleverly designed and the security clasp is fasten by 2 ceramic ball bearings. I'm a user of this clasp on a 5712 and it is perfect.


THE DIAL SIDE

On competitive watches we are offered the usual modern dial choices: silver, blue or black. These colors are certainly more up-to-date than the brown one (which isn't dark chocolate) chosen to decorate the 5711 but I would say it brings warmth and instead of playing on the higher contrasts, Patek has privileged a smoother coordination: it is a little more conservative but more of a classic style, less subject to fashion trends. It has this little "authentic" touch I like when it comes to Patek watches. This being said, I would also like to see a masculine and modern blue or black dial in the future but I don't think they'll do it on the base of this 5711/1R.





The warm brown gradated dial counts a lot in the impression the watch leaves (by the way, I think It would also very nicely be worn by women).

The color as you can see from the pictures is, as always on the modern Nautilus line-up, very special and far from being made of only one color and simple paint (this is due to the galvanic coating technique). This is a significant craftsmanship I think Patek also masters beautifully.

The applied markers and hands are still as beautiful as they don't look "squared" but very delicately edged in order to keep this softness in the dial composition. We already saw in my 5227R's review how the brand cares about every details and especially the markers' shape.





THE MOVEMENT SIDE

You all know the 3-hands 5711 is powered by the beautiful, accurate and reliable 324 SC caliber. Here is below the wonderful view we have from the back. The bridges' shape, the way they are designed, the decoration thinness, the size of the movement: everything is perfect IMHO.



Credit: Small-luxury-world (Oliver)

Like many movements coming from the brand today (215, 31-260, some 240...), the 324 caliber is here equipped with the Silinvar spiral (Spiromax) made of Silicon (anti-magnetic; less friction; no need of lubricant).


CONCLUSION AND THOUGHTS

Even though the 5980/1R existed (since 2013 if I remember correctly), the 5711/1 in rose gold is a major addition to the line-up. It is the only one among the thin references (5711 and 5712) and, hence, fills a need for owners wanting something a little more luxurious and expressive compared to white metals.

Finally, Patek has chosen to remain in the same line as the 5980 which also has a black/brown dial (in a much more black tone though). I was at first thinking it could have had a younger dial look at the beginning but I came to fully understand Patek's direction and think it is a better choice on the long run and the 5711/1R will keep its "retro" charm, inherent to the brand's DNA.

I love that watch (but I'm biased as I love nearly all the Nautilus family) and would totally accept this rose gold bracelet reference on my wrist as it brings something that white metals don't.


Well, this is how I see it but would really be curious to see how you rank this one compared to your favorite Nautilus models!

Cheers, Mark


This message has been edited by MTF on 2015-12-07 09:15:10