Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5650G Advanced Research

ImranLondon · 2017-04-01T10:40:30Z

Exclusive review of Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G Advanced Research, featuring Silinvar and Oscillomax innovations.

ImranLondon

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

29 replies9807 views18 photos

Miranda presents an exclusive review of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G Advanced Research, highlighting its groundbreaking technological achievements. This article traces the history of Patek Philippe's Advanced Research project, from the introduction of Silinvar to the Oscillomax ensemble, setting the stage for the 5650G's innovations. Readers will gain a deep understanding of how Patek Philippe integrates cutting-edge materials and manufacturing techniques to enhance accuracy and durability in their movements.

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I think it is easy to say one of this years most important releases was the ref.5650G Aquanaut Travel Time with two new achievements from the advanced research department of Patek Philippe.

Before we look at the new addition of this research collection, a quick reminder of the history of the Advanced Research models and technological innovations this far.

The Advanced Research project began in the early 2000's with an avant-garde innovation programme centred on researching new materials and new manufacturing techniques that could supplement symbiotically the grand old methods of watchmaking with advances of a modern technology that could result in more accurate and robust movements. Techniques that could alleviate the age old enemies of lubrication and magnetism.

In order to achieve these goals Patek Philippe worked with other manufactures and respected educational institutions such as the Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne.

These forward thinking interventions have resulted in innovations such as Silinvar- a completely new material that has opened up new horizons in mechanical watch making. Silinvar is very lightweight but twice as hard as steel. It is also completely amagnetic.

In 2005, we saw the fruits of these technologies with the introduction of the escape wheel made in this material. It required zero lubrication. The new escape wheel was showcased in a limited edition of 100 pieces model ref 5250.

This was quickly followed by the Spiromax balance spring also made of Silinvar in 2006. The new balance made its debut in the second Advanced Research model, the ref. 5350R made in a limited edition of 300 pieces.

The 5350 had both innovations together for the first time.

Two years later we had one of the most beautiful Advanced Research editions , the ref 5450P in platinum. Again made in 300 pieces the new reference saw the debut of the Pulsomax escapement. The new movement witnessed a gain in energy transmission of 15%, extended service interval. From a technical perspective the movement had an optimised geometry of the escape wheel and lever.

In 2011 Patek Philippe introduced one of the most stunning Perpetual calendar models, the ref 5550P. The dial was pure vintage inspired, whilst the movement was a testament to modern technological prowess. The movement presented was the Oscillomax ensemble with Pulsomax escapement, Gyromax Si balance and Spiromax balance spring:

The Gyromax Si preserved all the precision adjustments of the traditional Gyromax patented in 1951, but did so with less mass thanks to chassis made of lightweight Silinvar.

Now in 2017, we see the latest instalment in the Advanced Research series with the premier of the ref.5650G. Made in 500 pieces in white gold, we see the introduction of two new innovations.

The new Travel Time has a movement extensively modified with respect to the travel time function. The 5164A has no less than 37 parts in the mechanism for adjusting the hour hand via the pushers in the case. the new movement has only 12. The movement has reduced the need for gears and pivots and has removed the need for lubrication. All this has been achieved by using conventional materials- steel. This has been achieved by using a steel flexible mechanism. The superbly finished mechanism has four crossed leaf springs, with distance between the only 150microns at crossover. Whilst it is simple in concept, the technology to develop such precision is certainly not.

Patek Philippe Advanced Research 5650 mechanism

The next innovation concerns the movement. I can only describe as a revolutionary take on the tourbillon, as it seeks to improve the isotropism of the balance in the vertical orientations of the watch. How have they achieved this?

The Silinvar Spiromax balance spring has been updated- it now features "an inner boss"

If you look at the closely at the inner hairspring, you will see the spring is slightly thicker.

What this all means is that we now have tourbillon accuracy of -1 and + 2 seconds per day.

A superb new novelty from Patek Philippe. The only downside is it is 500 pieces.

Best

Imran

About the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5164

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5164 is a travel time model within the Aquanaut collection. This specific reference is identified as 5164A-001, indicating a steel case.

The 5164A-001 features a rubber strap. No further details regarding the case material, crystal, or movement are provided.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe Aquanaut with a travel time complication and a rubber strap, suitable for various climates.

Specifications

Caliber: 324 S C FUS

Case: Stainless steel

Diameter: 40.8 mm

Dial: Black embossed

Water Resist.: 120 meters

Crystal: Sapphire

About the Patek Philippe Patek Philippe Aquanaute steel Ref. 5164A

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5164A represents a significant evolution in the collection s history, introducing the brand s first travel time complication to the sporty Aquanaut line. Launched as part of Patek Philippe s expansion of the Aquanaut family beyond simple time-only models, this reference bridges the gap between the manufacture s renowned travel time expertise and contemporary sports watch design. The 5164A demonstrates Patek Philippe s commitment to bringing haute horlogerie complications to their modern steel sports watches, establishing it as a cornerstone reference that elevated the Aquanaut s status within the brand s hierarchy.

At the heart of the 5164A beats the automatic caliber 324 S C, a sophisticated movement that powers the dual time zone functionality with characteristic Patek Philippe precision. This caliber features a 21K gold rotor and delivers a power reserve of approximately 35-45 hours, while maintaining the manufacture s exacting standards for finishing and reliability. The movement enables intuitive travel time operation through pushers integrated into the case, allowing the local hour hand to advance in one-hour increments while maintaining running seconds and preserving the home time display.

The 5164A s design language perfectly embodies the Aquanaut s modern aesthetic philosophy, featuring the collection s signature embossed Tropical composite strap and the distinctive rounded octagonal case profile scaled to 40.8mm in diameter. The black dial presents exceptional legibility with applied luminous markers and the characteristic dual time zone layout, while the fixed bezel and sapphire crystal contribute to the watch s 120-meter water resistance. From a collectibility standpoint, the 5164A occupies a unique position as the sole steel Aquanaut travel time model, making it highly sought after by collectors who appreciate both the practical complications and the reference s role in defining the modern Aquanaut collection s expanding complexity.

Specifications

Caliber: Cal. 324 S C

Case: Steel

Diameter: 40.8mm

Dial: black

Water Resist.: 120m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

While acknowledging the impressive technological advancements and accuracy of the 5650G, several contributors express aesthetic reservations about the dial's exposed metalwork and cutout design.
The 5650G's non-traditional dial, which openly displays Patek Philippe's advanced research, is applauded by some for its boldness and willingness to take risks in design.
A question arises regarding how Patek Philippe's skeletonized watches, like the 5180, are possible given Thierry Stern's statement about UV light drying out movement oils when exposed on the dial side.
The watch's unique aesthetic is compared to 'The Terminator' after battle, suggesting a technologically advanced but visually unconventional appearance.
A minority of collectors express excitement for the 5650G, appreciating its 'un-Patek Patek' nature and expressing a desire for it in steel or titanium.
The dial's cutout is a primary point of contention, with some finding it visually unappealing and suggesting it makes the dial look 'broken,' despite the underlying technological marvel.

The Discussion

sham1

Apr 1, 2017

Thank you for the informative post!

I am in awe of the developments that have gone into this watch and the +1 -2 daily tolerance will put most tourbillons to shame. However, I have to confess that the watch does not look great and although it is produced in a limited number and will be a great investment, I need to be impressed by the way a watch looks before pulling the trigger. Yes, I know beauty is in the eyes of the beholder but I dare say that not many can honestly say that this watch is beautiful! Lovely photos Imran, thank

Kit333

Apr 1, 2017

Hi Sham1, i must say i share your sentiments. Like the colour though. [nt]

dr.kol

Apr 1, 2017

Dear Imran, A personal question:

Do you like 5650G to the extend that you will get it? Best, Kari

ImranLondon

Apr 1, 2017

I would love too--but the ltd no. means no chance for me. [nt]

dr.kol

Apr 2, 2017

Look at your Avatar

You have 5131G which must be much rarer. Good luck with your application. Best, Kari

Patekphilippecollector

Apr 2, 2017

Think it's a great watch and initially thought of applying then got cold feet.

Whilst the watch is a great novelty I just couldn\'t see a WG Aquanaut filling a slot in the collection despite it being my favourite colour. Going to be popular!