Patek Philippe 5524G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

Mark in Paris offers a comprehensive opinion and review of the 2015 Patek Philippe 5524G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, a reference that generated significant buzz and divided opinions upon its release. His article delves into the watch's controversial design, its departure from traditional Patek Philippe aesthetics, and its potential impact on the brand's collection. Mark in Paris encourages a discussion on whether this bold move by Patek Philippe successfully broadens its appeal to a new generation of collectors.

Gentlemen,

Under the nice Parisian weather, I felt it was a nice moment to share my opinion and that we could have a talk  about the new 2015 Patek Philippe 5524G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time I could see several weeks ago (a special thanks to Magnus for providing the beautiful pictures he was able to get at Baselworld).

Well, the least we can say is that this watch has created a significant buzz when it was presented at Baselworld this year and that people are quite uncertain still today whether they finally like it or not.

As far as traditional brands are concerned, it is usually quite difficult to bring such evolutions in style to the line-up. Especially when we are talking about Patek Philippe.

The artistic work of any brand and their creative crew is based on their imagination but also on the inspiration they get from the brand's legacy or art history. There is a huge difference between copying and getting inspiration from. The imagination and talent to use a brand's DNA is what it is all about.

One first thing I keep on telling myself since this reference was unveiled at Baselworld 2015 is that I saw many "Pilot" watches from other brands, especially since the last few years, and that each time I look back at the 5524G, I definitely find the Patek better finished (dial, case, applied numerals...), more appealing in proportions (42 mm thus not too big, like the 5070 was in fact, pushers, hands...) and much more interesting as regards to the beauty of the material and colors choice.

In a word, I think the 5524G is maybe not the best toolwatch kind of pilot timepiece (it is in gold and not in steel), but the most beautiful pilot watch available today.

A pilot watch is by definition a watch that is not meant to please everyone because of its usually big size or specific style. It is a "niche" offer and is aimed at enjoying a very few people who will be receptive to the project.

Doing this kind of exercise is a huge challenge, because of the heritage of course, but also because of the pressure of every collectors or fans of the brand who all have a different opinion or taste in that field.

The goal of a brand is certainly not trying to satisfy everyone. This would lead to less interesting watches. But it is to be truth to its spirit and create something that will last.

Did they succeed to create that particular watch for those who want to collect something else, a little different from what their favorite brand used to do and at the level we expect from Patek Philippe standards in terms of design and quality?

Everyone will have a personal answer to this question but I personally think they did succeed. Time will tell what it will leave in Patek's history when looking back, in 20 or 30 years from now. Patek's history is full of examples of new watches that are part of the brand's history now and participated at shaping its DNA.

The watch

I think it is a very masculine and modern reference. I see it as a watch for travelers or willing to wear a more expressive model, sportier for the week-end and keeps a strong character. But respecting the luxury sector standard of Patek Philippe instead of getting a raw toolwatch.

Now, going into details, I think the unusual hands look really good and keep the watch attached to the beginning of the 20's century. The big numerals participate to this atmosphere. To me, picking among the leaf, stick, Dauphine hands etc... wouldn't have been a good move as it would be doing things half way.

Furthermore, the luminescent green coating power is stronger than on a standard watch. It is particularly visible in the dark of course. The numerals' frame give a very nice decoration touch as it brings an aditional attention to details (a little bit more luxurious and less "tool" of course).

The big pushers are quite weighing on the left of the case but this was a feature used in original pilot watches as they should be activated with gloves. So, it is not the classical balanced and discreet way but it is coherent with the origins of such a model.

I find the white gold case well designed as it remains simple in its curves. Most of the attention is directed toward the pushers and especially toward the dial.

By the way, the dial texture is something I like a lot in this watch (as well as the blue tone which was chosen). I would really want to be able to touch it to feel the surface's grain.

From, the different elements above, it is easy to see what Patek's idea was: creating a Patek Philippe watch worthy of the luxurious decoration and finishing details of the catalogue with an inspiration from the pilot watches.

Sometimes, we can say that trying to make two things at a time results in doing any of them the good way. I think they succeeded here in bringing Patek's standards (material elements) into an iconic toolwatch (spirit).

The finishing of the dial is stunning; the white hands' paint, the blued hands, the numerals' frame, the white printings, the grainy dial...

The movement used is the famous 324 automatic caliber with Patek's specific and clever dual time module. One thing I appreciate in this caliber and the 240 is the bridges' size and shapes as well as their decoration. Perfectly balanced to me, but this is of course a matter of taste.

The watch is provided with a brown strap and a simple pin buckle.

What we can notice once more here, in comparision to the dial's side, is that all the case, bezel and other "accessories" are really pure and simple in their design. I think it helps not getting a heavy looking watch as the dial is already the main attention focus area. Once again, it suits to the Pilot theme as watches were toolwatches, flight instruments and not used in a decorative way.

Hence, the Patek 5524G sticks to that spirit.

About the Travel Time complication.

I already had the opportunity to say how interesting and clever is this travel time complication.

The chief watchmaker of Patek explained me last year how it works.

Thirdly, a cam integrated to the hour wheel is preventing the date to be manually changed around midnight.

This a very interesting complication in which many clever and simple (reliable) ideas prevent the owner to make the wrong move.

This travel time is indeed very practical, able to be set very quickly (buttons and not via the crown) and safe for the movement.

I'll be curious to read about how you feel after several months it was unveiled: what is your feeling? Do you feel it is a surprising and interesting Patek or do you feel you'll need more time to accept it? Do you love it or is it just not for you?

I'm looking forward to reading your comments

Cheers,

Mark In Paris