Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016
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Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016

By quattro · May 15, 2026 · 31 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Emmanuel, known as quattro on the forums, provides an in-depth look at the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016. This article highlights the new warm-toned rose gold variant with a sunburst sand beige dial, offering a detailed comparison with previous models. His comprehensive analysis helps readers appreciate the subtle yet impactful design evolution of this classic reference.

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The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref. 5396 is a classic, of which I have listed all the existing variants here: Patek Philippe ref. 5396 - All variants to date.

Ref. 5396R-016 is a new warm-toned version featuring a rose gold case and a brilliant sunburst sand beige dial.

Of course, it's nothing more than a new dial color, but I like it a lot personally...

Case dimensions: 38.5 x 11.2 mm






credit: @chrono24 (1), @benrsimon (2-3)


For comparison, here are the two versions I was able to try on in Geneva in February 2025.

Rose gold ref. 5396R-011



White gold ref. 5396G-017


For me, this comparison shows just how stunning this new version is.


Finally, here are the studio photos taken and published by Fratello:

















Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H






credit: Fratello


So, how do you feel about this new sunburst sand beige dial?

Do you share my enthusiasm?

Thanks for looking.

Best, Emmanuel

About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396

Patek Philippe Reference 5396

The Reference 5396 represents Patek Philippe's annual calendar offering within the Annual Calendar with Moon Phase series. This 38.5mm reference provides the annual calendar complication combined with moon phase indication, positioning it as a complex calendar watch that requires manual correction only once per year in February.

The watch features an 18k white gold case measuring 38.5mm in diameter with a smooth bezel and sapphire crystal. The automatic Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU provides 45 hours of power reserve. Water resistance is rated to 30 meters, and the watch is fitted with a leather strap.

In production since 2006, the Reference 5396 appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's annual calendar complication in white gold. The 38.5mm case size offers contemporary wearability while the moon phase adds visual interest to the calendar display. This reference serves collectors prioritizing complicated timepieces with practical daily calendar functions.

Specifications

Caliber
324 S IRM QA LU
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
38.5 mm
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AB
Abu Alex
May 15, 2026

The lugs of a watch are like the legs of a lady. In an ideal world, both have to have a flowing elegance

QU
quattro
May 15, 2026

I like 5296 far less. 5496 is wonderful, but it's 39.5 mm instead of 38.5 mm. And 5170 is a completely different story for me. Just my feeling of course. Best, Emmanuel

QU
quattro
May 15, 2026

it's one I could consider for myself... Best, Emmanuel 🌸

SU
Subexplorer
May 15, 2026

... looks sublime: a soft warm color which gives this watch a different character. A very charming character. You made a very thorough post past year showing all the different version of this reference. A huge reference work you did! It clearly shows that this watch has a chamaleonic spirit as its character changes -sometimes subtly, some times dramaticaly- with the different case metals, its different indexes and the colors of its dials. I own the white gold version/opaline dial which had been

AB
Abu Alex
May 15, 2026

My favourite classic ref. 96 type cases are the ones of the 5170, the 5296 and the 6196. Perhaps, the 6196 is the best Calatrava in all of Patek's history.

SU
Subexplorer
May 15, 2026

... my watch I love so much and I liked this combo. Best cordial regards, Abel

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