New Release
Dje's Baselworld 2011 report introduces the Patek Philippe Ref. 5270 perpetual calendar chronograph, marking a significant evolution in the brand's grand complications. This article explores the 5270G as the first non-split-seconds perpetual calendar chronograph with an in-house manufacture caliber, inviting collectors to appreciate its classical yet subtly evolved design.
We won't
have had to wait too much to see a new perpetual calendar manual wind
chronograph appear from Patek Philippe' s novelties. Just two years after
the Patek Philippe 5970P, the Patek Philippe 5270G is taking the glorious
path of its ancestors. The new chapter opened today is significant also because
the Patek Philippe 5270G is the first ever (non split second) wrist chronograph
with perpetual calendar equipped with a manufacture calibre from Patek
Philippe.
If the
reference 5951 launched last year was the first in house with its split seconds
function it was also a much more exclusive watch, not that you'll see a
5270G at every corner, but at least some will be able to seriously think about
it. Who knows? Maybe I'll do, maybe you'll do?
So the first
impression made by the Patek Philippe 5270G is of a very classical appearance,
of some understatement. Those used to Patek Philippe's history of models
may see that as totally natural. Following the 5970 the 5270 appears as a shy
evolution at first glance. Then you have to let time pass by and help you
appreciate.
I spent nearly
three weeks with the picture above as my screen saver and I've now
totally changed my initial impression for a growing interest and an urge to
test it on the wrist as soon as possible. I'll have to wait a few weeks
more so I must calm down, but yes this watch could become my new dreamed
target.
I had been much
appealed by the case style of the 5970. The flared lugs of the 5970 are
somewhat unique in the modern production (or at least I don't see
comparable ones) and give a strong presence to the watch. The same kind of lugs
are back on the 5270G. Simple round cases and sculpted lugs have often shown
great ever lasting designs. This new watch is indeed made to cross the decades
fresh as of today.
Some will focus
more on the concave bezel. That's another good design aspect that already
proved right on several Patek Philippe models like the 5205 last year for
instance.
We will have to
see if the 41mm diameter of the case gives the on the wrist impression of
perfection of the 5970. I guess that the larger size and the flatter calibre
will make the new watch appear thinner.
The mainly
rectangular but quite smoothed pushers are another aspect that appeals me a
lot. They seem more rounded than on the 5170, but slightly less than on the
5970. We'll have to check that with the piece in hands.
The main aspect
I would like to notice and emphasize on the top size is the cleanliness of the
dial. A perpetual calendar is always a way to make a busy dial. The day and
month indication in apertures is a very good way to make them more readable,
but the date and even more the leap year and night and day indicators generally
end up misting up the dial.
The 5270G is a
success on that side in my opinion. The counters at three and six have been
freed from indications rarely used and let alone and perfectly readable. That
also enlightens the dial a lot.
Furthermore the
absence of a dedicated scale like a tachymeter or pulsometer offers a full
outside and simple scale that was missing on the 5970. Nobody can now say that
the chronograph is not usable! That gives a harmony, a serenity to the dial
that is quite relaxing.
On the silvery
opaline dial side the respective size of indications seems perfectly
proportioned to me. The black oxidized gold applied markers and hands allow a
perfect and immediate visibility of the time.
The chronograph
and short times are to be read on a horizontal scale, while the indications of
the longest time, i.e. the perpetual calendar, are to be read vertically.
In fact the
watch looks simpler than it is. Understatement I wrote. I like that. We see so
many empty watches with dials cluttered and full of hidden emptiness.
The nobility of
the watch comes finally from the discreet leap year indicator at 4h30. The
night and day indicator at 7h30 will avoid any mistake when the watch needs to
be set.
Finally we may
also have a look at the major asset of the new 5270G. The calibre CH 29-535 PS
Q is the perpetual calendar version of the calibre appeared in the 5170J last
year and the Ladies First 7071 at the end of 2009.
This calibre is
just technically superb and superbly technical.
I would just
urge you to read my post linked above to rediscover the technical features
brought by this new generation.
All in all I
would say that I see the new Patek Philippe 5270G as a very coherent offer for
the first use of the new calibre with a perpetual calendar. Some will certainly
regret to see a child of the 5970 but we have time later for a new case design
with the same calibre!
We will
certainly talk and exchange a lot about this watch in the next weeks and
months. It's time to begin.
The 5270 is
offered only in white gold for the time being. It is delivered with a plain
back and an interchangeable see-trough back.
The watch is
water resistant at 30
meters. Our own perpetual calendared swimmers will dare
to use it!
What are your
thoughts?
Dje
Patek Philippe Reference 5205
The Reference 5205 represents Patek Philippe's annual calendar offering within the complications category. This 40mm timepiece displays day, date, month, moon phase, and 24-hour indication, positioning it as a multi-function dress watch that requires adjustment only once per year at the end of February.
The 40mm case is available in 18k white gold, 18k rose gold, or platinum, featuring a smooth bezel and sapphire crystal with 30-meter water resistance. The automatic Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H provides 45 hours of power reserve. Each example comes fitted with a leather strap and deployant clasp.
In production from 2010 to present, the 5205 appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's annual calendar complication in a contemporary case size. The availability across three precious metal options allows for different aesthetic preferences while maintaining the same movement and case proportions throughout the reference's production run.
What I like a lot: The superb lugs, the concave bezel, and the fact that we have the possibility to choose between the plain and see through case back. What I dislike: The subdials, which are " de centered ", and the two port holes at the right and left part of the moonphase, which break a bit the harmony of the dial. BUT, isn't this always the case with new watches? We often need some time to get used to these changes. Therefore, this one needs to be seen in the flesh before any further or defi
Thanks JΓ©rΓ΄me for these very first comments and photos. Elegant, refinement, QP and chronograph, in-house Patek calibre=the MUST have for sure. Hope I could have one day the pleasure to wear this 5270 on my wrist, even if it is for a test ;-)))) Have a great Basel exhibition visit. You made my sunny day!! Best, Patrickh
To what I have NO doubt will be the talk of the Patek stand at this years fair. I like so many others, will have to wait (hopefully) to see this piece in the flesh. But what I have seen of it so far, I like very much. In recent times I have become a fan of the apertures and this piece ceratinly, for me wins in this case. It also appears that the size of the date font may well be slightly larger, especially around the figure "27" which for me it a great plus. The lugs are also very pleasing and I
The heir to the crown has a lot to live up to, its forbears have become icons in the horological world and are the stuff of dreams for so many. Early signs are good, and hopefully this weekend I will be able to handle it and give a real life perspective. It reminds a little of the ref.1579 Imran
Finally we can talk about it!=) Thanks Jerome for the very well written report of the most anticipated watch of the year for me. The key points for me: 1. Love the muscular yet elegant sculpted lugs 2. Much improved legibility due to the lack of tachymeter, small windows for leap year and day/night indicator 3. The slightly increased size, which helps with legibility and is also a better fit for my use 4. New, in-house movement 5. The slightly understated look that is perfect for me As Patrickh
IMHO, my initial impression is it looks "bottom heavy" on the dial with the subdials placement on the dial.I kept comparing it to the 5970 dial which looks more coherent.
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