Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1G Skeleton & Enamel Art
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Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1G Skeleton & Enamel Art

By Dje · Aug 27, 2008 · 27 replies
Dje
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Dje's 2008 Baselworld report offers a fascinating look at Patek Philippe's artistic watches, particularly the Ref. 5180/1G skeletonized timepiece. This article highlights Patek Philippe's enduring commitment to traditional decorative arts, such as enameling and skeletonization, alongside their horological innovations. It provides valuable context for understanding the brand's diverse offerings beyond its well-known complications.

Patek Philippe is most well known for its horological competencies, as we saw them at work in the 5450 Advanced Research and the 5207 instantaneous perpetual calendar with minute repeater and tourbillon.

 

Still Patek Philippe is also a long time, very long time producer of some more artistic watches, among them the most looked after enamelled world time models brought back this year by the new 5131. But there are other options. smile

 



Patek Philippe 5180/1 W

 

One of the artistic specialties of Patek Philippe is the skeleton watches even if in the last years Patek Philippe has let other watchmakers play alone!

 



A see-through watch

 

The new 5180 is a more contemporary automatic white gold skeleton watch.

 



Skeletonized and engraved

 

This 39mm watch is delivered on a white gold bracelet.

 



Rhodiumed calibre

 

The heat blued hands are echoed by the blue tinted outside part of the back sapphire.

 



Anything unnecessary?

 

The calibre is fully rhodiumed, excepted nearly all rotating parts (balance wheel, gear train, …).

 



A nice see-through back

 

This watch remains very classical in its decoration techniques, but the implementation is IMO very nicely done to provide a contemporary appeal.

 



Automatic skeleton

 

Obviously this watch doesn't modernize the skeletonizing as a Reverso Tourbillon skeleton did, mainly because of the classical engraving, but  I'd be very happy to wear it someday!

 



Slim watch

 

The next piece would be much more difficult to wear.

 



Table clock

 

Patek Philippe has also long produced quartz table clocks. These clocks are mainly appealing for their decoration.

 



Very classical this time

 

I will not try to convince you that I'm tempted as for once this is not the case! smile

 



La Belle Epoque

 

I still admit that this table clock can find its audience thanks to its very nicely adorned case. A matter of age!

 



Like a sugar box

 

Then comes a series of enameled watches.

 



Sitting tiger

 

Each year Patek Philippe offers a little selection of watches with enamelled dials. You didn't like the fish last year, try the tiger this year!

 



Laying tiger

 

The Tiger series reference 5076 are based on a 5109 rectangular case.

 



Jumping tiger

 

The tiger series are not my favorite. I suppose that in Asia the tiger has a very special significance though!

 



Roaring tiger

 

Here is the 5076 series seemingly intended for the European market.

 



The green Venetian mask

 

Venezia is one of the most fascinating European cities ! The Carnaval is the highest moment of the year in Venezia.

 



The pink mask

 

The masks are the symbol of the carnaval. This series of masks nicely mixes the carnaval spirit with some touches of the city in the background.

 



Admire the cloisonne effect

 

The art of enamelling is one of the most complicated and delicate technique of decoration in watchmaking and very probably the most artistic one.

 



Toi et moi

 

I find this series particularly refreshing and very appealing, somewhat modern too.

 



Il gondolo

 

If the Patek Philippe enamelled watches are noticeable for their cloisonne construction, that's not the only technique used.

 



The bird

 

The gold « cloison » is fixed on a base plate that can also be engraved, or more precisely the plate is "champleve", and the enamel is applied on the engraving.

 



The cloisonne bird

 

All techniques can be mixed in the same watch to produce a true masterpiece.

 



The tiger plates

 

So the base plate can be engraved to create cavities, than can later be painted too, and cloisons can be added!

 



Putting the cloison in place

 

Some may prefer the softer look of an enamelled paint, but Patek Philippe very nicely uses all the enamel techniques.

 



Painted enamel

 

The painted enamels bring us to the last series of enamelled watches for this year, the birds!

 



The painted birds

 

The birds have always been a chosen subject of paintings of enamels, quite probably thanks to their grace and their variety of colours.

 



Patek Philippe 5077

 

The deep blue back is really fascinating. I'd love to see such skies!

 



Paradisier rouge

 

Can you imagine one of these watches on your wrist?

 



Singing

 

If you're interested by one of these watches you may contact directly Patek Philippe.

 



My favorite of the four

 

I hope you enjoyed these art watches. Thank you for reading.

 

Dje

 

 

This message has been edited by Dje on 2008-08-27 14:13:43 This message has been edited by Dje on 2008-08-30 04:38:40

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5130

The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.

The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.

Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal.240 HU
Case
18k rose gold
Diameter
39.5mm
Dial
Silver / opaline guilloché
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AR
Ares501 - Mr Green
Aug 27, 2008

The sugar box is so sweet would like to have it on my table Thank you for this infos Sincerely

VI
vitalsigns
Aug 27, 2008

Patek should really have taken more care and properly finished the underside of the balance wheel of the ref. 5180--see the first and second real pics (after the first couple press photos)...it really stands in sharp contrast to the otherwise terrific job. Also, the off-center Patek Philippe logo in the enamel bird dials really bothers me. The logo is only slightly off-center, but because it's so close to being centered, the brain can't help but think of mistaken asymmetry. John

WA
watch-guy.com
Aug 27, 2008

will keep quiet Lots of hard intense work but I am not sure if the desired effect has been achieved. Possibly they need to be seen in real life to be better appreciated Thanks Jerome ps Do you have special key for the PP factory?? Julian

TI
timerider
Aug 27, 2008

to keep art in the watch along with the art of the watchmaking. We really must keep this alive and teach the younger artists so it can continue on and not be lost. There is really something mesmerizing about the technique, color and texture of these pieces. They speak to my imagination as well as the WIS part of my brain. Merci. Tim

KR
Krieng
Aug 27, 2008

really amazing works from Patek. Cheers

SM
small-luxury-world
Aug 28, 2008

enamel is great. It is always nice to read/see the different skills of a brand. My favorite is the " Laying tiger". Will they be available only as a limited set, on order, ...? I assume, there will be a "huge" price tag. Any idea? Thanks Jerome! oliver

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