Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1G Skeleton & Enamel Art
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Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1G Skeleton & Enamel Art

By Dje · Aug 27, 2008 · 27 replies
Dje
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Dje's 2008 Baselworld report offers a fascinating look at Patek Philippe's artistic watches, particularly the Ref. 5180/1G skeletonized timepiece. This article highlights Patek Philippe's enduring commitment to traditional decorative arts, such as enameling and skeletonization, alongside their horological innovations. It provides valuable context for understanding the brand's diverse offerings beyond its well-known complications.

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Patek Philippe is most well known for its horological competencies, as we saw them at work in the 5450 Advanced Research and the 5207 instantaneous perpetual calendar with minute repeater and tourbillon.

 

Still Patek Philippe is also a long time, very long time producer of some more artistic watches, among them the most looked after enamelled world time models brought back this year by the new 5131. But there are other options. smile

 



Patek Philippe 5180/1 W

 

One of the artistic specialties of Patek Philippe is the skeleton watches even if in the last years Patek Philippe has let other watchmakers play alone!

 



A see-through watch

 

The new 5180 is a more contemporary automatic white gold skeleton watch.

 



Skeletonized and engraved

 

This 39mm watch is delivered on a white gold bracelet.

 



Rhodiumed calibre

 

The heat blued hands are echoed by the blue tinted outside part of the back sapphire.

 



Anything unnecessary?

 

The calibre is fully rhodiumed, excepted nearly all rotating parts (balance wheel, gear train, …).

 



A nice see-through back

 

This watch remains very classical in its decoration techniques, but the implementation is IMO very nicely done to provide a contemporary appeal.

 



Automatic skeleton

 

Obviously this watch doesn't modernize the skeletonizing as a Reverso Tourbillon skeleton did, mainly because of the classical engraving, but  I'd be very happy to wear it someday!

 



Slim watch

 

The next piece would be much more difficult to wear.

 



Table clock

 

Patek Philippe has also long produced quartz table clocks. These clocks are mainly appealing for their decoration.

 



Very classical this time

 

I will not try to convince you that I'm tempted as for once this is not the case! smile

 



La Belle Epoque

 

I still admit that this table clock can find its audience thanks to its very nicely adorned case. A matter of age!

 



Like a sugar box

 

Then comes a series of enameled watches.

 



Sitting tiger

 

Each year Patek Philippe offers a little selection of watches with enamelled dials. You didn't like the fish last year, try the tiger this year!

 



Laying tiger

 

The Tiger series reference 5076 are based on a 5109 rectangular case.

 



Jumping tiger

 

The tiger series are not my favorite. I suppose that in Asia the tiger has a very special significance though!

 



Roaring tiger

 

Here is the 5076 series seemingly intended for the European market.

 



The green Venetian mask

 

Venezia is one of the most fascinating European cities ! The Carnaval is the highest moment of the year in Venezia.

 



The pink mask

 

The masks are the symbol of the carnaval. This series of masks nicely mixes the carnaval spirit with some touches of the city in the background.

 



Admire the cloisonne effect

 

The art of enamelling is one of the most complicated and delicate technique of decoration in watchmaking and very probably the most artistic one.

 



Toi et moi

 

I find this series particularly refreshing and very appealing, somewhat modern too.

 



Il gondolo

 

If the Patek Philippe enamelled watches are noticeable for their cloisonne construction, that's not the only technique used.

 



The bird

 

The gold « cloison » is fixed on a base plate that can also be engraved, or more precisely the plate is "champleve", and the enamel is applied on the engraving.

 



The cloisonne bird

 

All techniques can be mixed in the same watch to produce a true masterpiece.

 



The tiger plates

 

So the base plate can be engraved to create cavities, than can later be painted too, and cloisons can be added!

 



Putting the cloison in place

 

Some may prefer the softer look of an enamelled paint, but Patek Philippe very nicely uses all the enamel techniques.

 



Painted enamel

 

The painted enamels bring us to the last series of enamelled watches for this year, the birds!

 



The painted birds

 

The birds have always been a chosen subject of paintings of enamels, quite probably thanks to their grace and their variety of colours.

 



Patek Philippe 5077

 

The deep blue back is really fascinating. I'd love to see such skies!

 



Paradisier rouge

 

Can you imagine one of these watches on your wrist?

 



Singing

 

If you're interested by one of these watches you may contact directly Patek Philippe.

 



My favorite of the four

 

I hope you enjoyed these art watches. Thank you for reading.

 

Dje

 

 

This message has been edited by Dje on 2008-08-27 14:13:43 This message has been edited by Dje on 2008-08-30 04:38:40

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5076

The Patek Philippe Reference 5076 is a series of limited-edition timepieces distinguished by its intricate cloisonné enamel dials. Launched in 2003 and produced until 2006, this reference was created in sets, each comprising four watches with different dials unified by a specific theme, often drawing inspiration from cultural or natural motifs. It represents Patek Philippe's commitment to traditional artisanal crafts, particularly in the realm of decorative dial work. The limited production run and artistic focus position it as a significant offering for collectors of rare horological art.

The watches in the 5076 series feature a platinum case, measuring 30 x 43 mm. These dimensions provide an appropriate canvas for the detailed enamel artistry while maintaining a refined profile suitable for a dress watch. Powering these timepieces is the Patek Philippe caliber 215, a manual-winding movement known for its slimness and reliability. Some variations of the caliber 215 used in this reference include a small seconds display, while others do not, reflecting subtle variations within the series.

With approximately 120 examples produced across all themes, the Reference 5076 appeals to collectors who prioritize rarity and exceptional decorative craftsmanship. Its short production span and the unique nature of each four-watch set contribute to its collectibility. The reference showcases Patek Philippe's expertise in combining high watchmaking with traditional decorative arts, making it a notable entry for enthusiasts of unique and artistically significant timepieces.

Specifications

Caliber
215
Case
Platinum
Diameter
30 x 43 mm
Dial
Cloisonné enamel (various themes)
Water Resist.
30 m
Crystal
Sapphire

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The Discussion
AR
Ares501 - Mr Green
Aug 27, 2008
Outstanding post

The sugar box is so sweet would like to have it on my table Thank you for this infos Sincerely

VI
vitalsigns
Aug 27, 2008
Very cool. Thanks...BUT

Patek should really have taken more care and properly finished the underside of the balance wheel of the ref. 5180--see the first and second real pics (after the first couple press photos)...it really stands in sharp contrast to the otherwise terrific job. Also, the off-center Patek Philippe logo in the enamel bird dials really bothers me. The logo is only slightly off-center, but because it's so close to being centered, the brain can't help but think of mistaken asymmetry. John

WA
watch-guy.com
Aug 27, 2008
Great pieces and I was always told if you cannot say anything nice then keep quiet, thus I

will keep quiet Lots of hard intense work but I am not sure if the desired effect has been achieved. Possibly they need to be seen in real life to be better appreciated Thanks Jerome ps Do you have special key for the PP factory?? Julian

TI
timerider
Aug 27, 2008
Thank you Jerome, great report as always. I think it is so important

to keep art in the watch along with the art of the watchmaking. We really must keep this alive and teach the younger artists so it can continue on and not be lost. There is really something mesmerizing about the technique, color and texture of these pieces. They speak to my imagination as well as the WIS part of my brain. Merci. Tim

KR
Krieng
Aug 27, 2008
Thank you very much for your post.

really amazing works from Patek. Cheers

SM
small-luxury-world
Aug 28, 2008
Marvelous post and especially the info about ...

enamel is great. It is always nice to read/see the different skills of a brand. My favorite is the " Laying tiger". Will they be available only as a limited set, on order, ...? I assume, there will be a "huge" price tag. Any idea? Thanks Jerome! oliver

Available on the marketplace

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