Review
Mark in Paris delivers an insightful review of the Patek Philippe 5124G Gondolo, a 2015 release that reinterprets the brand's Art Deco-inspired shaped case. This article meticulously compares the new white gold model with its predecessors, highlighting design nuances, dial characteristics, and the overall appeal for collectors seeking a unique yet classic Patek Philippe. Readers gain a detailed understanding of this distinctive reference within the Gondolo family.
Credit: Oliver and Magnus
The Gondolo family is a very interesting model style, even if it will not sing to everyone.
As I previously wrote about the White dial and Blue dial versions of the 5200G reference, it is perfectly natural to have a closer look now at the new 5124G unveiled in Baselworld 2015.
THE FRONT SIDE
The Art Deco case (mainly because of the case's stepped side shape) is a fantastic asset of Patek Philippe's current catalogue and having a simpler but also a different in size (not necessary smaller!) Gondolo is very interesting for Patek aficionados.
The 5124 reference existed already in yellow gold and this white gold version represents the white metal hence the sportier addition. Several years ago (in 2011 if I remember well) there was already a white gold version, though a little more classical due to the color and numerals' choices. The new 5124G is much more contemporary, a theme which is also supported by the Dauphine hands choice (versus leaf ones in the previous G version).
Yellow and new 2015 white gold versions side by side:
Credit: Oliver or Magnus
The discontinued white gold model:
Why did I earlier say "not smaller"? Because, as a matter of fact, though the new 3-hands 5124G is smaller in height than the 5200 reference with 43mm (versus 46.9mm) it remains a little larger in width at 33.4mm (versus 32.4mm). You can understand now that the 5124 is more than a simpler and smaller 5200, which would have been the easier way to bring it. It is now looking a little more square than rectangular, which IMHO suits it better to the spirit of a dressy and elegant 3-hand piece.
One detail I like a lot (as it will bring much comfort) is that the whole case is arched.
Its proportions are thus more likely to please Patek clients looking for a discreet everyday watch but with a touch of uniqueness and style coming from the 1920-1940's: much character, keeping in mind it is still a rectangular watch, but remaining a classic.
THE DIAL
The color of the dial, as for the 5200G, is perfectly allowing wearing it with a more casual outfit, during the week-end for instance. The blue dial is about the same tone than the 5200G and has a sunburst pattern which plays a lot with the light reflection. This certainly gives animation in a purer global outfit.
You can see here below a picture showing the 5124G next to the darker blue of the new 6000G (which I talked about here ...).
Credit: Our fellow
purist Patrickh
There are no numerals of any sort, just a beautiful set of applied gold faceted markers for the hours, over a silvery minute scale. I think that such a case makes the strength of the watch and that it doesn't absolutely need numerals as it will appear lighter and more refined this way.
An additional detail I like very much (especially in the 5200) is the sapphire glass edge finishing. Describing the glass as an "invisible" element is usually redundant, but in this case, it brings another nice detail to the front side. The faceted finish is Art Deco too (like the wall mirrors from the same period) and gorgeous, as with the help of this dense material, the edges are very sharp.
THE MOVEMENT
The manually-wound caliber's base is completely different from the 5200, a detail you can notice particularly in the bridges' shape, as the 5124's mechanism is based on the 215 sketch but the mainplate and bridges have been completely re-designed. I find this rectangular 25-21 REC PS movement is very beautiful with its "S" bridge in the center. No โround movement in a square caseโ here.
Credit: Our fellow purist Patrickh
It is furthermore equipped with the Silinvar (silicon-based material) spiral taken from the Advanced Research program and has a 44 hours power reserve (28,000 vph).
SUMMARY
In conclusion, I would like to mention that this is a really well-born reference from the Gondolo family: the case, the dial or the caliber are completely coherent and work with one another. This model has succeeded in combining a classic but daring style model with a dressy and elegant watch. I say so as the modern side of a watch is often supported by a more "sporty" side. Here it is not sporty at all but could be worn casually as a very refined model.
The caliber, though derived from the 215 caliber has shown that Patek can make a very well updated caliber in term of size and style while keeping (I assume) its "experienced" reliability.
This 5124G is a fantastic alternative to a round Calatrava model if you wish to keep the Patek elegance yet in a unique (i.e. unusual nowadays) case form.
I'm curious to read about your thoughts on this reference as it is not every year I guess that we'll find a shaped watch at Basel.
Cheers, Mark
The Montblanc Calatrava reference 5124 is a notable example of the brand's dress watch offerings, characterized by its restrained design and classic proportions. This reference was produced during a period when Montblanc was expanding its horological presence, offering timepieces that emphasized traditional watchmaking aesthetics. It represents a more accessible entry point into the brand's mechanical watch collection, appealing to those seeking a refined and understated wristwatch without excessive complications.
Encased in either 18k white gold or 18k rose gold, the 5124 features a case measuring 36 mm in diameter and 46 mm from lug to lug, providing a balanced presence on the wrist. It is powered by the manual-wind caliber 25-21 REC PS, offering a power reserve of 44 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance, and has a water resistance rating of 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear.
This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate Montblanc's commitment to classical watch design and mechanical movements. Its availability in different precious metals and dial colors (silver or black) provides options for individual preference, while its lack of complications underscores its identity as a pure time-only dress watch. The 5124 fits within a lineage of watches that prioritize legibility and timeless style.
I\'ve been a big, big fan of this model since its introduction. Classic looks in an elegant case - blue dial - Dauphine hands - faceted hour markers - sub seconds: these are a few of my favourite things! Add the shaped hand-wound movement and you\'ve got a winner. Very tempting and it instantly became one of my two favourite dressier Pateks, the other being the Golden Ellipse in platinum with a blue dial. (If given the option between the two I don\'t know how I would decide!) Best E.
. . . but this revision of the 5124 strikes as perfectly executed. Shaped cases with matching movements are my cuppa tea; this is even more desirable than the 5105, and I practically revere the 9"' - 90 movement. Not that I'm about to buy one, but if owning a modern PP were in the cards, this would be it. (And yes, I'm still hunting for that elusive G O Karree cal 42!). Art
This version is perfect. Last Wg salmon dial left me cold. The yellow gold version is also gorgeous and probably one of the most under rated Patek pieces in the modern collection
The dark character comes from the deep dark blue dial (which is a, solid I reckon, blued gold dial) and the indices that are quite dark at times, depending on the light and angle. This makes time reading a little difficult at times but since we admire time this is not an issue at all. A watch straight out of the movie "Metropolis". This one is surely a big throw in the entry level range, in the level of manual watches. A piece to get. Thanks for the great read. Best Moritz
Thanks Mark for nice detailed review of 5124 & Gondola Patek watches. I had tried this at AD and was tempted to get one last christmas but settled with another piece. I fully agree to your start & conclusion part of 5124G which is as fascinating as other Patek. Seems that still we have hangover of 2015 Basel watches and 2016 Basel will be knocking on door. I wish to have 5124G one day. Cheers ! Gautam
As considering your choice between the two, well... very hard indeed as they are so much different from one another. I guess it will also depend on how you would want to wear it (that's how I work)! Thank you for your comments E Cheers, Mark
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