Patek Philippe Henri Rousseau Enamel Dials Explained
Complications

Patek Philippe Henri Rousseau Enamel Dials Explained

By GLau · Jan 26, 2018 · 34 replies
GLau
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
34 replies7694 views13 photos
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GLau's dedication to uncovering the intricacies of Patek Philippe's rare handcrafts, specifically the Henri Rousseau enamel series, offers invaluable insights for collectors. This post, a follow-up to his earlier discussions, delves into direct communications with Patek Philippe and master enameler Anita Porchet, clarifying key details about the enamel dials and their creation. His persistent inquiry into these exquisite pieces enriches the community's understanding of high horology artistry.

http://www.watchprosite.com/page-wf.forumpost/fi-11/ti-1139431/dv-true/wf.responses.open_bLoB_s-0/

http://www.watchprosite.com/page-wf.forumpost/fi-11/pi-9105131/ti-1159226/s-0/t--rousseau-enamel-lion-homecoming-father-and-son-reunion/

...me questions on the enamel dials. Hence, I have communicated with Patek so that we can understand more about this series. Mr Jerome Pernici (Commercial Director) was very kind and responded fully to to our questions.

1 - Is this Lion done with champleve enamel only or a combination of champleve and cloisonné? I noticed under the loupe that the hair and whiskers are wires just like cloisonné..

Answer: This timepiece only uses the cloisonné enamel technique.


2 - PuristPro moderator Patrick met with Ms. Anita Porchet in New York and showed her my post and she was very happy. She told Patrick that the most challenging part of the dial was the leaves below the Lion. Why were they so challenging?

Answer: Making the leaves below the lion was very challenging for the following reasons:
a) Many shades of green enamel had to be used to give depth to the leaves and their “veins”. These veins are not found on other leaves of the dial.
b) Furthermore, it is difficult to give (3D) perspective with enamel, making the realization of these leaves very difficult as they are on the foreground of the dial.
c) Enamel allows (3D) perspective with the right mix of color shades.


3 - A PuristS told us that enamel dial signed "AP" was done by her protege(s), whereas "A Porchet" was done by AP herself. Is that true?
Answer: This is correct. Please note that for enamel dial signed “AP”, Anita Porchet validates all color choices, the techniques to be applied and also indicates the exact execution approach. It is a very complex art requiring Anita Porchet’s presence at the workshop at all times.


To me, the A Porchet pieces are more rare (such as unique pocket watches with different enamel methods combined and it can go up to 6 different methods !!! ) but their prices are much higher. Overall I view Ms. Porchet as a top enamel brand, just like Patek for watches! Hence, I am very happy with the price point and value for money with my AP piece because she is fully involved in these pieces.

Today I had an enamel Lion GTG with a PuristS who chased the lion after reading my posts and got addicted & finally hunted it down! smile Can you tell which is mine (check photos from my previous posts) and his ? Can you spot the difference between these non identical twins ?








Below are pocket watches by Ms Porchet with signed A Porchet and AP and photos of Ms Porchet with a picture of her lion son. LOL ! Photos are all from the New York grand exhibition.










Also an owner with Leopard was kind enough to let me take photos of his animal.











My lion photo in a Chinese magazine and Lion + Leopard GTG below.






Which one(s) do you like and why?

Would you choose AP or A Porchet and why ?

Cheers,

Gordon

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5089

The Patek Philippe Reference 5089 is a series of Rare Handcrafts timepieces, often produced in extremely limited editions or as unique pieces. These references are distinguished by their intricate decorative arts, such as enameling, engraving, or marquetry, applied to the dial or case. They represent Patek Philippe's commitment to preserving traditional artisanal techniques within contemporary watchmaking, positioning them as highly collectible examples of decorative horology rather than standard production models.

These timepieces typically feature a precious metal case, often white gold or rose gold, housing a self-winding mechanical movement. The specific caliber varies depending on the individual execution, but it is always finished to Patek Philippe's exacting standards. The crystal is consistently sapphire, providing clear visibility of the meticulously crafted dial. Water resistance is generally modest, reflecting the artistic nature of the watch rather than its utility in demanding environments.

Collector relevance for the 5089 series stems from its extreme rarity and the unique artistic expression each piece embodies. These watches appeal to collectors who prioritize artisanal craftsmanship and exclusivity, often seeking out specific themes or decorative techniques. The 2019 collection for Hausmann & Co.'s 225th anniversary, for example, highlights the potential for bespoke creations and regional tributes within this reference family, further enhancing their desirability and historical significance.

Specifications

Caliber
240 LU CL
Case
White Gold
Diameter
38 mm
Dial
Multi-color
Water Resist.
30 m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
RU
runie
Jan 26, 2018

I adore these rare handcrafts.... brilliant pictures

GL
GLau
Jan 26, 2018

the lion ! We would be having an enamel lion GTG now ! Cheers, Gordon

RU
runie
Jan 26, 2018

I know it was a big mistake not to take the lion....

GL
GLau
Jan 26, 2018

lion, leopard, owl and/or bird ! My friend just got his Lion last week. There is hope ! Good luck if you decide to go for one or all !

PA
patekova
Jan 26, 2018

by Patek, the Lion is my absolute favorite. Best, patekova

KC
KCLQMULKU
Jan 26, 2018

Were there any differences from the two that you found?

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