Miranda's third installment on Patek Philippe chronographs delves into the modern era, focusing on the iconic Reference 5070. This post meticulously details the watch's design inspirations, its groundbreaking 42mm case size for its time, and the significant Lemania CH 27-70 movement that powered it, offering a comprehensive look at its impact on Patek Philippe's chronograph lineage.
The modern era:
After a hiatus of nearly 40 years (the production of the ref.1463 ceased in the 1960’s) Patek Philippe launched its reference 5070 chronograph.
The new reference certainly caught attention with its outsized case at 42mm- huge for 1998. The dial took its inspiration from a vintage split second reference 2512, (watch no.867857).
The case reminds of another classic reference 2552.
The movement was the famed Lemania CH 27-70, heavily re-worked and finished by Patek. The sapphire back allows for visual inspection of the famed calibre- the first time in a simple chronograph.
The movement was quite small compared to the case and this led to the famous step design, you could say the small movement heavily influenced the aesthetics and architecture of the case.
Ironically, the first version wasn’t an instant success. There were no waiting lists, perhaps it was a little too ahead of its time. I believe out of the initial production run of 1000 pieces only 800 or so were made.The yellow gold model was followed by white and rose gold versions. They were produced in 250 pieces per year until 1000 pieces were made. They were then superseded by the cult 5070p version, rumoured to be around 200 pieces.
The incredible following was due in part to the rumours that the swatch group would no longer supply movement to third parties. This led a feeding frenzy and yes the waiting lists came. I guess the fear was that Patek would not be making anymore chronographs. The idea that Patek would create their own movement at the time was not really considered, as they had not done so before. Whatever the reasons, the 5070 took on a popularity that borders on obsessional even today.During the production runs, there were a few special pieces made with salmon dials and other dials too, including a blue version for the London exhibition.
Launch of a new classic: the reference 5170
Following on from the ref.5070, was no easy feat. In fact some could say that it was an impossible an unenviable task. But I feel that in the case of the Patek Philippe chronograph Ref. 5170, the attribute of classic is vindicated. Launched in 2010, it is the first chronograph developed entirely by Patek Philippe and crafted exclusively in the manufacture’s workshops.The new CH 29-535 PS chronograph caliber for the Ref. 5170 is a classic manually wound chronograph movement with a column wheel and a horizontal clutch. The main for Patek Philippe was to create one of the most beautiful chronograph and technically proficient calibers ever made.
The development of the CH 29-535 PS movement took more than five years spawning six new patents. As with all high end classical chronographs the CH 29-535 PS caliber is controlled by a column wheel that in the traditional aesthetic of Patek chronograph movement rotates beneath a polished cap. The cap however is not just purely for aesthetic reasons, it also firmly secures the chronograph levers in their positions – even in the event of sharp jolts – so it enhances functional reliability. The movement features an instantaneously jumping 30-minute counter, a frequency of 4 hertz (28,800 semi-oscillations/hour) and a continued power reserve of 65 hours approximately 58 hours when the chronograph is running).Technical audacity exemplified by six patentsThe new calibre rises to the top in technical prowess as demonstrated by six patented innovations:1. Optimized tooth profile Suppression of hand bounce or rebound when starting. Vibration-free chronograph hand movement. Improved efficiency and reduction of mechanical wear.2. Precision adjustment of wheel mesh at the column wheel The large eccentric polished column wheel cap allows the very precise adjustment of mesh depth of the chronograph wheels at the outer end of the clutch lever.3. Optimized synchronization of the clutch and brake levers The clutch lever and the brake lever are directly synchronized with a finger at the clutch lever. The complicated involvement of the column wheel is not necessary.4. Slotted minute-counter cam Thanks to a slot in the minute-counter cam, the chronograph counter can gently come to a standstill when reset.5. Self-setting hammers- Self-setting return to zero hammers improve functional reliability and dependability.6. Hammers pivoted between jewel bearings .The two hammers that reset the chronograph hand and the minute counter are independently and coaxially suspended between jewel bearings. Each hammer is pressed against its respective heart cam with its own spring. This system optimizes the precise alignment of the hammers and the kinetics of the mechanism.The technical advantage is further enhanced with a number of additional features that improve reliability and performance. The instantaneous 30-minute counter is much more complicated than a semi-instantaneous or continuous counter. Its elaborate construction assures that the small hand jumps within a fraction of a second, enhancing precision and legibility. The driving wheel of the chronograph is another example: it is directly integrated in the wheel train and does not need to be subsequently assembled by the watchmaker. The 5170G with black Breguet dial is sumptuous rendition of this reference and is one of my favourites.The final version was the 5170p with a gorgeous blue-black dial. The diamond hour markers proved slightly controversial- but were very discrete far from “blingy”.
There have been many debates- even heated exchanged on the 5170 v 5070. The truth is that both are very different. I would say the 5070 is arguably more sporty and the 5170 more classic. In fact they complement each other very well. They are both in their own way great pieces to own and to compare I think is a little futile. Beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder.
As for the future?
Well who knows- but for sure I am sure the next generation of chronograph will follow proudly in the footsteps of its illustrious ancestors
We will see soon enough....
Picture credits
Christie’s
Sotheby’s
Philipps
Patek collector
Acollectedman
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5070
The Patek Philippe reference 5070, part of the Complications collection, marked a significant return for the brand to large-format chronographs. Introduced in 1998, it was the first non-perpetual calendar chronograph produced by Patek Philippe since the reference 1463, which ceased production in the early 1960s. Its design drew inspiration from a unique Patek Philippe aviator's watch from the 1940s, characterized by its prominent case and dial layout, yet reinterpreted for a contemporary audience. This reference established a new aesthetic direction for the brand's chronographs, moving towards more substantial case dimensions.
The watch features a 42mm case, initially offered in 18k yellow gold, housing the manual-winding Caliber CH 27-70. This movement, based on a Nouvelle Lémania ébauche, was extensively finished and modified by Patek Philippe, meeting the brand's stringent quality standards. It provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The dial, in this specific configuration, is black, protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The fixed bezel frames the dial, and the watch is typically fitted with a leather strap.
Reference 5070 appeals to collectors interested in modern Patek Philippe chronographs that combine traditional movement architecture with a more contemporary case size. Its limited production run and the subsequent introduction of variants in other precious metals contribute to its collectibility. The reference represents a distinct period in Patek Philippe's chronograph history, bridging vintage inspirations with a new era of larger watch designs.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.CH 27-70
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 42mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5170
The Chronograph reference 5170, introduced in 2010, marked a significant development for Patek Philippe as it was the first serially produced chronograph to feature a fully in-house manufactured movement. This reference succeeded the reference 5070, transitioning from a Lemania-based caliber to a proprietary design, underscoring the brand's commitment to integrated manufacturing for its complications. It represents a modern interpretation of a classic chronograph layout within the Patek Philippe catalog.
The reference 5170 features a case measuring 39.4 mm in diameter and 10.9 mm in thickness, available in 18k white, rose, or yellow gold. It is equipped with the manual-winding caliber CH 29-535 PS, which offers a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back, showcasing its intricate finishing.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a contemporary Patek Philippe chronograph with an in-house movement. Early variants, such as the yellow gold reference 5170J-001, featured a pulsometer scale, which was later replaced by a minute track on subsequent iterations. The various metal options and dial configurations provide distinct aesthetic choices for collectors, reflecting different periods of its production run.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 29-535 PS
- Case
- 18k White Gold, Rose Gold, or Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 39.4 mm
- Dial
- Silver, Black, or Opaline
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2552
The Patek Philippe Reference 2552, often referred to as a "Disco Volante" due to its distinctive case profile, represents a significant design departure for the manufacturer in the mid-20th century. This reference is characterized by its broad, flat bezel and integrated lugs, presenting a sleek and modern aesthetic that was forward-looking for its era. It stands apart from more traditional Patek Philippe designs of the period, appealing to collectors who appreciate mid-century modernism in horology.
This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter, which was a substantial size for a dress watch at the time of its production. The watch is powered by a manual-wind movement, specifically the Caliber 2552, which offers a power reserve of 40 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the silver dial, and the watch is rated for 30 meters of water resistance, typical for a dress watch of its construction.
For collectors, the Reference 2552 is notable for its unique case architecture and its representation of Patek Philippe's willingness to explore contemporary design trends. Its distinctive profile makes it easily recognizable and a conversation piece among enthusiasts. Variants of this reference may exist with different dial signatures, indicating partnerships with specific retailers, a practice that adds another layer of historical interest for collectors.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Boucheron 2552
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 2512
The Patek Philippe Reference 2512 is a notable example of the brand's mid-century production, characterized by its substantial case dimensions for the era. This reference is recognized for its robust presence on the wrist, distinguishing it from many of its contemporaries which often featured more modest sizing. It represents a particular design philosophy from Patek Philippe, emphasizing a more pronounced and assertive aesthetic while maintaining the brand's commitment to horological excellence. The reference is a testament to the diverse design approaches Patek Philippe explored in the mid-20th century.
This reference typically features a manually wound movement, reflecting the common practice of the period. The case material is often yellow gold, though other precious metals may exist. Its larger diameter for the time contributes to its distinct visual impact. The crystal is generally acrylic, consistent with watches from this era, providing a clear view of the dial. The movement within would have been finished to Patek Philippe's high standards, ensuring precision and reliability.
For collectors, the Reference 2512 appeals to those seeking vintage Patek Philippe pieces with a more commanding wrist presence. Its relative rarity and distinctive proportions make it a point of interest among enthusiasts who appreciate the brand's historical output beyond its more commonly encountered models. The reference fits into the broader Patek Philippe catalog as an example of the brand's willingness to experiment with different case sizes and forms, offering a unique option for those who prefer a larger vintage watch.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 12'''400
- Case
- Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 37 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Acrylic
