Patek Philippe 5020 Platinum Perpetual Chrono
Vintage

Patek Philippe 5020 Platinum Perpetual Chrono

By patekova · Oct 12, 2017 · 21 replies
patekova
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
21 replies6590 views1 photos
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The 5020, which has the same exact movement as the 3970, was much maligned when it was introduced. A dismal failure in terms of sales, the almost universal reaction could be described in one word - "ugly" with a few !!! s. How the 5020 became "beautiful", in at least some collectors' minds is a myst

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The 5020, which has the same exact movement as the 3970, was much maligned when it was introduced. A dismal failure in terms of sales, the almost universal reaction could be described in one word - "ugly" with a few !!! s. How the 5020 became "beautiful", in at least some collectors' minds is a mystery to me. Like the early 3rd series 3970 platinum, the moon phase register is blue/yellow, rather than black/silver. While the 3970 has the exceptional and classic case style of its larger antecedent, the 2499, the 5020 came to be referred to as the "television" model because of the shape of the case. Somehow "television" does not seem to connote great beauty or anything even remotely close to that.

Interestingly, a "unique" 5020 is coming up for auction next month in Geneva, with a black Breguet dial as compared to the silver Breguet above. 5020 dials came in 2 styles, black diamond and silver Breguet. According to the auction house description, a total of about 200 5020s were produced in all metals combined, of which fewer than 20 were platinum.

While later platinum 3970s came with a second case back, the 5020 platinum, unlike the gold variants, never came with a second back (just the solid one). Why? I have no idea, but I think the same applied to the platinum versions of 5040 and 5013, all of which are form cases, rather than round.

I hope you enjoy viewing this former ugly duckling cousin (before it became a swan) to the always beautiful 3970.

Best, patekova

About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 2499

The Patek Philippe Reference 2499 is a highly significant perpetual calendar chronograph, representing a pivotal model in the brand's history of complicated wristwatches. It succeeded the Reference 1518 and introduced a larger case diameter and updated aesthetic, establishing a design language that would influence subsequent perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe for decades. The reference was produced in four distinct series, each with subtle variations in dial layout, pusher style, and case construction.

This reference typically features a case crafted from precious metals, most commonly yellow gold, though examples in rose gold and platinum are known. The case diameter is generally 37.5mm, housing a manual-wind movement, specifically the caliber 13''' Q. This movement integrates a perpetual calendar mechanism with a chronograph function, offering indications for day, date, month, leap year, and moon phases. The crystal is typically acrylic for earlier series and sapphire for later iterations.

The 2499 is highly sought after by collectors due to its rarity, complexity, and historical importance. It is considered a benchmark for vintage complicated Patek Philippe watches and represents the evolution of the perpetual calendar chronograph from the mid-20th century. The variations between the four series provide distinct collecting opportunities, with each series possessing unique characteristics that appeal to different connoisseurs.

Specifications

Caliber
13''' Q
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
37.5mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire
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The Discussion
GL
GLau
Oct 12, 2017
Hi Patekova, many thanks for showing us this rare bird !

What a great history lesson you gave us ! 20 pieces is very few indeed. Truly a fairy tale of ugly duckling turning into a swan ! Huge congrats on having the foresight ! Cheers, Gordon

PA
patekova
Oct 12, 2017
Thanks Gordon! As far as foresight, my initial reaction was ugh! Over time my feelings changed gradually, but cumulatively dramatically.

When I acquired it NOS almost 15 years ago, appreciation of it was just starting to grow, but nothing like the way it is viewed today. Best, patekova

WA
watch-er
Oct 12, 2017
Have become very valuable

These watches are highly sought after be the collecting world.

PA
patekova
Oct 12, 2017
Thanks for writing and sharing your observation! [nt]

AL
Alkiro1
Oct 12, 2017
This Patek has a lot of charm with its specific case shape and dial layout. Last but not least, it’s a true rarity

Thank you Patekova for its description and story. Best wishes Alkiro

PA
patekova
Oct 12, 2017
Thank you Alkiro for your thoughts and it is my pleasure to share what I know about the 5020. [nt]

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