Complications
Dje provides an in-depth look at Patek Philippe's minute repeater novelties from Baselworld 2011, focusing on references 5216 and 7000. This article highlights Patek Philippe's continued mastery of high complications, offering collectors a detailed overview of these intricate timepieces. It positions these new releases within the broader context of Patek Philippe's diverse 2011 offerings.
This
year's new offerings have been varied from Patek Philippe. The collectors
may have chosen to target the new perpetual calendar chronograph reference 5270
( patek.watchprosite.com
) or the Patek Philippe Advanced Research series latest iteration
reference 5550P launched a few weeks after Baselworld
( patek.watchprosite.com
).
The most
demanding amateurs looking for extreme pieces may have chosen the reference
5208, the now second most complicated piece in the catalog ( patek.watchprosite.com
).
On the opposite
side of the spectrum the Patek Philippe collectors looking for simpler pleasures
may have elected the new and gorgeous reference 5153G ( patek.watchprosite.com
).
I could have easily been among those if money was no object.
There were also
many other offerings that we've not discussed yet and that we may look at
some day.
There are two
watches that I want to focus on, as they share a common point and reveal some
aspects.
Out of the 5208
Patek Philippe presented two new references of new minute repeater wrist watches,
out of some other jewelled pieces. One of these new watches is clearly a
men's watch while the other one is supposedly a women's watch.
The 5216 will
be very probably the successor of the old and well known 5016, a perpetual calendar
with minute repeater and hand winding tourbillon. The new piece is 39.5mm large
and so far exclusively presented in pink gold colour. The calibre R TO 27 PS QR
is identical to the one found in the 5016.
The watch is
still delivered with a set of two backs, one plain and the other one
transparent.
If the watch is
slightly larger than the 5016, the main difference is the case style. The 5216
case is clearly derived from the forms of the classical Calatrava 96. If
I'm not wrong this is the first time a minute repeater is made with this
case style.
The watch is
quite beautiful and classical but I suppose that the most classical collectors
will ask why it was necessary to increase the case size from 36.8 to 39.5mm to
fit the same calibre. The market obviously has its rules.
I guess the new
collectors will appreciate the more modern size. I guess too that the Patek
Philippe minute repeaters' collectors (yes there are some who collect all
Patek Philippe minute repeater references) will accept to vary the size of
their pieces, and will appreciate something really different in aspect from
their 3974, their 3979, their 3939, their 5078, their 5074, their 5013, their
5016, their 5033, their 5029, their 5002, their 5207, all in different colours.
Some increasing variety is finally pleasing.
Anyway if they
can't accept the new huge 39.5mm case size, they can also concentrate their
efforts on the new reference 7000. The 7000 is a Ladies First minute repeater,
the first minute repeater conceived for ladies by Patek Philippe in modern
times. Ladies first, but gentlemen can come second has this watch could easily
become a men's watch with a more virile strap colour.
The size of
33.7mm will not stop the collectors as the sublime 3939 was only 33.3mm. The R
27 PS calibre is identical to the one found in the 5078.
The officer
case style (without hinged back) is just perfectly executed and the watch is
also delivered with two backs: one plain, one transparent.
In fact this
watch with its plain back on could well IMO be the most refined grande
complication from Patek Philippe, its arab / Breguet numerals on a grained
cream coloured dial giving a very classical but casual rounded look that
differs a lot with the more angled new Calatrava 5216.
Happy Patek
Philippe minute repeater collectors! They get three new watches to order this
year, one watch every four months. The year won't be long before the next
one.
For us all
other Patek Philippe fans these watches should remind us that Patek Philippe
minute repeaters are their most excellent watches, certainly more than their
tempting chronographs. In the last twenty years the minute repeaters have
probably more than any other specialty, helped to defend and establish Patek
Philippe's supremacy on the Haute Horlogerie watch market.
If I were a
Patek Philippe collector, I'd be tempted! 
Cheers
Dje
The Girard-Perregaux Reference 7000, known as the "Vintage 1994", is a notable piece from the brand's 1990s output, specifically within the "Vintage" line. This model is recognized for its design cues that evoke classic watchmaking aesthetics while incorporating contemporary manufacturing techniques of its era. It represents a specific period in Girard-Perregaux's history, highlighting their approach to reinterpreting historical designs for a modern audience in the mid-1990s.
The watch features a case crafted from stainless steel, measuring 32mm in diameter. It houses an automatic movement, the Girard-Perregaux Caliber 3000, which provides a power reserve of 46 hours. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, ensuring durability and clarity. The design emphasizes a balanced and legible display, consistent with the brand's commitment to functional elegance.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in Girard-Perregaux's production from the 1990s, particularly those who appreciate the brand's "Vintage" series. It offers insight into the design philosophy of the time, bridging traditional watchmaking with the evolving tastes of the decade. The "Vintage 1994" stands as an example of the brand's continuous exploration of its heritage through new interpretations.
Prepare to dig even deeper ... much much deeper, loose change, even under your favourite couch for that spare few coins. That might not be enough to pay your bank for the required currency exchange rate. The good ole days seems to have gone.
For me the 5016r with black dial and breguet hands and Arabic numerals is just a killer. Sadly beyond any possible means.
Both of them are fantastic watches - but I like the classic Calatrava style of the 5216 more than the Officer´s case... And what adds to the desirability: rose gold is my favorite material. The only issue with the watches is: I will never can afford to buy them... regards Erich
Thanks Jerôme for the presentation. Both are great, I love the Lady minute repeater, this complication fits really well in that size and officer box. So charming. I hope that one day I will see the 5339 presented last year, this one is so exciting in photos. Cheers Francois
Looking forward to seeing these in the metal. Thanks for posting.
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