Patek Philippe 3960G vs. Murakamo vs. UJ Alfred: A Dress Watch Collector's Dilemma

sham1 · 2020-04-17T02:00:54Z

Explore Patek Philippe 3960G, Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakamo, and Urban Jürgensen Alfred 40mm. A collector's dilemma on dress watch size and finishing.

sham1

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

49 replies9016 views6 photos

In a captivating exploration of horological aesthetics, sham1 presents a compelling dilemma: choosing among three distinct dress watches, each featuring the elegant Breguet numerals he adores. His detailed comparison of the Patek Philippe 3960G, Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakamo, and Urban Jürgensen Alfred 40mm invites readers to consider the nuances of size, finishing, and collectibility in the realm of high-end dress watches. This article distills community insights on these exquisite timepieces, offering valuable perspectives for collectors navigating similar decisions.

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Like many of you, I have been browsing the internet too often during these challenging times and needless to say, there are some lovely watches out there that make compelling purchases. Sometimes though as much as all the alternatives scream 'buy me, buy me now!', whatever little wisdom left in us tells us we should only buy one watch especially when all three are dress watches with one thing in common - Breguet numerals. Now, I must confess that I have a fetish for Breguet numerals as they add a certain artistic flair and romanticism to any dial.

So here I am torturing myself with a predicament of three equally beautiful watches. The Patek 3960G was released to commemorate Patek Phillipe's 150th anniversary in a limited edition of 150 pieces so arguably pretty rare and collectible. The watch is in a 33mm military style white gold case with a hinged back and the straight lugs allows the watch to wear larger than the 33mm diameter suggests. Inside this beauty is the evergreen 215 manual movement.

The Murakamo by Kikuchi Nakagawa comes in a diameter of 36.8mm and its design is based on the Patek Ref 96 using a heavily modified Vaucher movement. The degree of finishing to the hands, dial and case is superlative with lots of black polishing. The watch comes in steel and those raised Breguet numerals are quite breathtaking. My only qualm with the watch be it a minor one is that the movement is an automatic and is hidden behind a solid case back in line with the vintage look.

Lastly, I am considering the Urban Jurgensen Alfred which is now available in 40mm and spots the P4 proprietary manual movement. I always thought that the original 42mm Alfred was a little too large for a dress watch but this 40mm offering will fit many wrists. I just love the colour of the dial. Saying that, I love the dials on each of these watches.

I vaguely know which way I am leaning to but I would appreciate any feedback from my fellow purists. Thank you!

The Patek 3960G - elegance personified all the way down to the knurled crown

The engraving in the case back hidden by the hinged cover.

The Murakamo - notice the recessed second hand counter.

The modified Vaucher movement which unfortunately is not for the owner's eyes.

The Alfred 40. A statement in style with the beautiful teardrop lugs

The P4 movement

Key Points from the Discussion

The ideal dress watch size is a recurring debate, with many collectors, including sham1, advocating for smaller diameters (33-38mm) to maintain elegance and prevent the dial from appearing too empty compared to more complicated watches.
The Patek Philippe 3960G, while rare and collectible, is seen by some as having an 'old-fashioned' case and a wide bezel, with alternatives like the Patek 5022P offering a more modern aesthetic in the same 33mm size.
The Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakamo is highly praised for its three-dimensional elevated numerals, recessed dial, and superlative black polishing across the entire case, offering exceptional finishing typically found in much higher price tiers.
The Urban Jürgensen Alfred 40mm, despite its appealing dial color and proprietary P4 manual movement, is often considered too large for a traditional dress watch, with many purists preferring sizes under 39mm.
Concerns about vintage watch reliability and lengthy service times are valid, as illustrated by sham1's 1943 Patek undergoing a 20-month service, making modern pieces more appealing for daily wear.
The Murakamo's extensive black polishing, while visually stunning, raises questions about its durability and susceptibility to dings that could compromise its optical effect.

The Discussion

VinnieD

Apr 17, 2020

Not taking price into consideration, I would select the Kikuchi... with a black dial Just my gut feeling. I am planning a trip to Japan in 2021 and will be keen to discover Kikuchi over there in due time.

sham1

Apr 17, 2020

The black dial is also very nice but my personal preference is the cream dial. Unfortunately, I am only due to be in Tokyo in 2022 for the Patek Exhibition which is perhaps too long to wait. Kikuchi Nakagawa only produces ten watches annually so these Murakamos are pretty rare.

rnaden

Apr 17, 2020

I think the dial, case, lugs and those very fine hands do it for me. The most attractive for me personally among these three. Even the movement looks right for the case and is really nice to look at.

sham1

Apr 17, 2020

Thanks for your feedback. You know my wrist well. How do you think the 40mm Alfred will fit on my wrist?!

sham1

Apr 17, 2020

I think a lot would depend on one's wrist size. I know 39mm and 40mm seem to be popular sizes these days but I also know there is a growing market for 36mm and 37mm and I believe more manufacturers will be producing watches in these sizes in the years to come.

andyhud

Apr 17, 2020

Good luck in choosing.

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Patek Philippe 3960G vs. Murakamo vs. UJ Alfred: A Dress Watch Collector's Dilemma

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