Complications
In the first of this series of exceptional Patek Philippe watches we saw the incredible ref 541 grand complication from 1938. Now I have great pleasure in reviewing the second incomparable piece in this series, the reference 3699 Observatory tourbillon. This superb timepiece also happens to be Mr Ph
In the first of this series of exceptional Patek Philippe watches we saw the incredible ref 541 grand complication from 1938. Now I have great pleasure in reviewing the second incomparable piece in this series, the reference 3699 Observatory tourbillon. This superb timepiece also happens to be Mr Philippe Stern’s personal watch.
The story of this piece begins in 1945, and the movement is the star of the show in the ref 3699. It is a 30m/m observatory calibre with a counterpoised straight-line lever escapement, Guillaume balance and isochronous Breguet balance spring with inner terminal curve made by Andre Bornard. it was created as a competition piece. Yes we could liken the 3699 to a competition Ferrari GTO. Bornand was renowned for his prowess as a specialist in the tourbillon complication. He was a well-educated man, who held the position of professor of escapement design at the Geneva School of Watchmaking.
The movement he designed, known by the movement number of 861115, – was precisely regulated by André Zibach. Andre Zibach was a renowned “regleur” or regulator- he was very highly skilled in his ability to regulate watches- especially for chronometry competitions. The movement is immaculately finished with superb anglage and silky Geneva stripes and it would compete in the Geneva Observatory trials. Zibach adjusted the movement no less than seven times between 1948 and 1959, and in 1963 Max Struder adjusted the movement again. Both Struder and Zibach were master craftsmen of the very highest calibre and of the very few who could regulate a tourbillon to observatory limits. Just for information, Max Struder was the one the men responsible for the creation of the Calibre 89, so yes, he is a superstar amongst watchmakers.
The Patek Philippe Reference 1938 is a notable example of the brand's early rectangular timepieces, distinguished by its Art Deco design influences. While not as widely recognized as some later models, it represents a period of design exploration for Patek Philippe, particularly in non-circular case forms. Its aesthetic draws inspiration from earlier references such as the 514, 524, and 520, establishing a lineage of design principles that would evolve in subsequent collections. This reference is a testament to the brand's commitment to both horological precision and artistic expression during the interwar period.
This particular reference features a 30mm case crafted from a combination of platinum and rose gold, a sophisticated material pairing that enhances its visual appeal. It houses a manual-wind movement, specifically the 10''' lever escapement caliber, which was a common and reliable mechanism for its era. The dial is characterized by its three-color scheme, adding to the watch's distinctive Art Deco character. The fixed bezel integrates seamlessly with the case design, maintaining the watch's streamlined profile.
For collectors, the Reference 1938 offers insight into Patek Philippe's design trajectory in the early 20th century. Its unique case material combination and three-color dial make it a distinctive piece for those interested in the brand's historical design language. While it predates the more complex complications seen in later Patek Philippe watches, its aesthetic and mechanical integrity appeal to collectors focused on vintage design and the foundational elements of the brand's heritage.
What is remarkable to me is how ahead of their time Patek was when it comes to watch design back then. Timeless beauty!
and interesting that he could have chose any metal for this and he chose yellow gold
Absolutely stunning! Both inside and out! OK, not much left of my socks after this one.... Looking forward to part three! Best Blomman
The movement together with the stepped case and Breguet numeral dial appears to be the pinnacle I have put another pair of socks on and await your next masterpiece patiently( well almost patiently) Julian
To me, this is a peerless watch. I feel a lot for this watch, but have almost no words. Speechless? Best, Brandon
This reference has pure Patek DNA of being timeless with understated elegance ! Cheers, Gordon
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