foversta's review of Panerai's 2011 novelties from the Paris Boutique offers an engaging look at key releases like the PAM382 Bronzo and PAM372 Luminor 1950. His detailed observations on design, movement coherence, and material choices provide valuable insights for collectors. This article serves as an excellent resource for understanding the initial reception and critical perspectives on these significant Panerai models.
Yesterday was organized an event at the Paris Boutique, rue de la Paix, to present to the guests some of the 2011 novelties. I was very happy to be able to attend such event because I was curious to see them again 6 months after the SIHH.
Let's start with a special edition and maybe my fav watch of the evening.
I don't know if it is because I'm the ex Gerald Genta moderator but I'm always fascinating by bronze case watches. They obviously have something special: a case colour, an atmosphere, maybe sometimes a steampunk style and an unique patina.
Thanks to its brushed bronze case,the
PAM382 has an unsual design in the Panerai collection. The watch seems to come from Jules Verne's spirit, as if it was Captain Nemo's favourite timepiece. I find it much more impressive than the PAM305.
The PAM382 has a 47mm case and uses the P.9000 automatic caliber which has a 3 days power reserve. The dial has a slight touch of green: with time, it will become more and more in harmony with the case (well... it is the opposite). Sadly, I find the date window a bit too small which is my usual remark about the watches which are powered by the 900x calibers.
Due to the use of bronze, I would have prefered a solid caseback with a suitable material.
Anyway, despite these minor defects, I am totally seduced by it: its bulky size is totally coherent with the bronze and it is difficult to resist against its charm...
Let's browse the watches which enter the collection now.
The
PAM372 (Luminor 1950 3 days) was maybe the 2011 novelty which received the warmest welcome: its 1950 SS case, the beauty of the hands, the purety of the dial... and the 3mm thick plexiglas make it very desirable.
I discussed this morning with Nico about it.
We don't have the same background with Panerai, he has a long history with the brand while I only own a Radiomir. Despite this difference, the conclusions are the same:
- the watch is gorgeous and very attractive aesthetically
- hopefully, Panerai uses a HW movement (the P.3000 which size (16,5 lines) is perfect for the case (47mm). This caliber was unveiled at the 2011 SIHH.
- sadly, it is visible because the watch has a see-through caseback. We say sadly due to the architecture of the movement. This two-plates caliber hides the main part of the wheels and at the end, only the balance wheel makes a really enjoyable view. It is a caliber which has a very contemporary lay-out (look at the balance bridge and the shape of the plates) and this design is a bit out of context of the atmosphere of the PAM372. We would have prefered a different architecture or at least, a solid caseback. On the other side, the technical features of the P.3000 are not disappointing with a 3-days power reserve thanks to the twin barrels.
If you don't care about the lack of coherence betwen the caliber and the design of the watch, the PAM372 is really impressive: it is almost the dream watch for a lot of fans of the brand... at an affordable price. The old followers of Panerai will regret the see-through caseback.
We come back to the watch powered by the P.9000 with the Luminor Composite Marina 1950.The brown composite 44mm case is very nicely made and creates a warm atmosphere with the brown dial. You will notice on the pictures the leather strap which contributes to the "roots" design of the
PAM386.
Let's stay in the world of original materials with the
PAM384, the Radiomir 8 days Ceramica.
Even if I really understand the interest of Ceramic in both aesthetical and durability points of view, I must confess I'm not that seduced by the use of this material in the Panerai context. I don't know how to explain it. It is due to the size of the cases? Is it due to their shapes? I think it is only a question of taste because the features of this material can be appreciated with a Radiomir case (45mm here).
We recognize the lay-out of the PAM268 dial and ovbviously, the watch also uses the P.2002/3 caliber. But the main difference is at the end a small detail: the cyclops was removed! Some may think it is a good point, some may prefer it with it due to the size of the date window. I found this watch very balanced and the contemporary design of the caliber more suitable in the context of a ceramic watch.
The Radiomir Black Seal Logo 45mm is a bit a gathering on the dial of some very well known details: the "Radiomir Black Seal" words and the logo. This gathering is a bit strange for my taste but some will find it quite original and balanced. The
PAM380 seems to me a sort of reminiscence of a previous page of the story of Panerai, the one with the Unitas caliber. As a proud owner of the 210, I prefer the purety of its dial. But this PAM380 is a sort of more casual version of this watch and of the PAM183. Only the presence of the logo on the dial transforms this watch making it more... fun. And you can still appreciate the elegancy and the slender side of the very nice 45mm Radiomir case.
I finish the report with a more complicated watch: a chronograph. Generally speaking, I'm a great fan of the Panerai chronograph which uses the Radiomir case. I think that the PAM288, despite its thickness, is one of the most beautiful chronographes of the industry. I was less convinced by the Luminor ones, thinking that the complication doesn't match with the case.
I don't have a similar feeling with the
PAM356: thanks to its thinner bezel, its more elegant case (brushed steel 44mm case), the nice details on the dial (look at the colour of the indexes), the beauty of the strap, this Luminor Chrono Daylight is by far my fav Luminor chronograph. It doesn't use an in-house movement but who really cares after all? The watch is very well made and the movement (7750) if not exclusive, realiable.
As a conclusion, it was a very nice event perfectly organized by the Paris boutique. We had the chance to see these 6 novelties, we all know that some were missing but 2011 is a such a busy year for Panerai that we understood it. 6 months after the SIHH, my fav of this new collection remains the bronze PAM382. Maybe because it looks unusual, original, I think because it has this little drop of extravagance the brand needs. The PAM372 is a wonderful watch but maybe too... logical at the end. It meets the expectations of a lot of people with very expected formulas. Sometimes, I love to be surprised and it is the reason why I prefer the PAM382 which was totally unexpected by me. A good move from Panerai!
I would like to thank a lot the staff of the Panerai boutique in Paris for the warm welcome and for the organization of the event which was much appreciated by all the guests.
Fx
