Lifestyle
Gaz's 2008 post delves into the unique qualities of the Panerai Jules Verne Sealand strap (PAM000216), highlighting its pioneering use of nubuck alligator hide. This article provides a detailed exploration of the strap's material, craftsmanship, and its significance as an early OEM innovation in the luxury watch accessory market, offering valuable insights for Paneristi and strap enthusiasts.
To mark the 100th anniversary Jules Verne’s passing, Panerai released the Jules Verne Sealand (Ref: PAM000216) in 2005. What captivated me most was not the watch itself but the strap.
Photo taken from Panerai website
So why is this strap so special? Well, simply because it was the first OEM strap released by Panerai, or any other watch manufacture for that matter, to feature nubuck alligator hide. It was surprising to see the term "nubuck" coupled with "alligator" since I had always associated nubuck with cowhide.
Nubuck refers to the process by which the hide is buffed on the outside, or the top-grain side. The result is a light surface nap which can be very fine and displays a very soft, velvety finish. Nubuck is comparable to suede. However, suede is created from buffing the inner side or flesh side of the hide. Leathersmiths consider nubuck to be superior to suede because it is much softer, thicker and more resistance to normal wear and stains.
Applying this process on an alligator hide give it this softer suede-like characteristic while retaining its reptilian scaling. WOW!!! How cool is that?
Being a strapaholic, I had to learn as much about what is now affectionately referred to as the Jules Verne strap (JV strap for short). When launched, the strap was offered only in gold. This was followed by black in late 2007. However, the black is not really black but rather a dark gray.
Gold JV strap on Pre A 1 and Black JV strap on Cali dial
Besides, the Jules Verne Sealand, the JV strap comes standard with the limited edition platinum 10-day GMT Radiomir (Ref: PAM000274).
Photo taken from Panerai website
The variants, in both colours, that I am aware of, are as follows:
1. 26/26 for the tang buckle
2. 24/22 for the tang buckle and Luminor deployant buckle
3. 26/20 for the Radiomir deployant buckle
4. 26/22 for the tang buckle
5. 26/22 for the tang buckle
The lengths vary between 115/75 and 125/85, although the 115/75 is the most common. There may be other variations of both dimension and length as Panerai used to take custom orders for this strap. However, due to production issues Panerai has since ceased this practice, or so they tell me.
As far as OEM straps go, the JV strap is not cheap. However, in my opinion, it is probably one of the most exquisite straps ever produced. Its softness and texture is something that one does not generally associate with reptilian hides but it is this very contrast that makes it such a special strap.
What intrigues me even more is the variation in colour and tone of the nubuck alligator hide, particularly in gold. The tones vary within the scales, ranging from dark brown to light tan giving it a cloudy appearance. This allows each strap to form its own characteristics with no two gold JV strap sharing the same tonal qualities. As it ages, the gold JV strap forms a nice patina further expressing its uniqueness. It is this individuality that makes this strap so appealing to me.
Top strap – used
Bottom strap – new
Top strap – 26/26
Bottom strap – 24/22
Overlaid with used strap
Check out that texture, you can see the fine nap
The strap gets a little grainier as it ages
While it feels soft and fragile, its actually very durable
The newer black JV strap is much more consistent in colour by virtue of its darker and narrower tonal differences. Its finishing and texture are smoother and more refined than the gold JV strap. However, depending on how strong the ambient lighting is, the scales on the black JV strap can be less pronounced.
The strap wears extremely well with both Radiomir and Luminor watches. This is surprising since the ruggedness of the Luminor case may not make this strap the obvious choice. One of the finest combinations that I have seen is the pairing of the gold JV strap with the PAM000203.
Courtesy of Jester, used with permission
It may seem a little frivolous to write so much about a strap, but for me the JV strap is a truly magnificent strap. It is the only example of its kind available and I applaud Panerai for making such an interesting strap available. If I can make one request, please make a nubuck hornback strap 
Thanks for reading
Gaz
added to Editor's Pick
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-03-17 20:53:01The Panerai PAM100 is a distinctive model within the brand's offerings, notable for its departure from the more utilitarian aesthetic often associated with Panerai. This reference presents a refined interpretation, emphasizing precious materials and a sophisticated dial treatment. It caters to collectors seeking a Panerai that blends the brand's characteristic case design with a luxurious presentation, distinguishing it from tool-watch oriented references.
This particular reference features a 40mm pink gold case, providing a substantial yet wearable presence. The watch is equipped with a mechanical movement, offering a power reserve suitable for daily wear. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance. The construction reflects a commitment to traditional watchmaking standards, with attention to both material selection and finishing.
The PAM100 appeals to collectors interested in Panerai's exploration of high-end materials and finishes. Its diamond dial further positions it as a piece for special occasions or as a statement watch within a collection. This reference represents a facet of Panerai's production that broadens its appeal beyond its traditional military-inspired designs, offering a more opulent option for enthusiasts.
I've just got new JV for my wife's 219 and she really loves this strap BADLY....its texture and color are amazing. I never had the idea of the "aged JV" until I read through your post. Thanks for sharing your review. Here are some pics of hey JV.... obligatory wristshot.... Cheers.
of a strap I have ever witnessed. I am all over it now! HAGWE Asi
This strap, with the one of the 172/192, is one fo the very nicest Vendome straps... Vzery nice review, my Gazza Friend! LOL Best, and thanks! Nicolas
I've ever read! I knew someday someone would write a strap review for a Panerai strap, so I'm not surprised at all. It's about time someone did I guess Thanks for the details on the Jules Verne strap, and many other Paneristi's have raved about the JV strap as well. They sure age beautifully! Cheers, Anthony
Back to drooling over straps and watches. Thanks again. Bill
of the post..!!! That really is an awsome strap...big congrats on putting together this post. More pics wouldn't be lost at all. Yours, andy.
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