Dr No's journey with his Omega Ref. 2366 chronometer highlights the critical importance of seemingly minor components like the crown in vintage watch collecting. His detailed account of acquiring and meticulously restoring this 'jumbo' example underscores how even a small alteration can significantly impact a watch's functionality, aesthetics, and originality. This article provides invaluable insights into the challenges and rewards of preserving horological integrity.
. . . a crown makes."*
And no, this post isn't about a Rolex.
Almost four years ago I stumbled onto a one-owner Ξ© ref 2366 chronometer. The owner had sold a ref 2364 to me a year earlier, so when he found this jumbo example . . .
[all photos credited to the seller]
. . . at an estate sale, he contacted me before putting it up on eBay. For the benefit of having first crack at it I paid a generous price, likely more than had it gone to auction. I felt the premium was well worth the cost as one-owner, unpolished, and running jumbo chronometers aren't exactly easy to find.
The crown looked original, and I presumed it was in the 'out' position in these photos. When I received the watch, it turned out the crown had been altered. And the gap wasn't due to being in the 'out' position - it was actually pushed in. The case tube had been filed down and the crown had been jury-rigged to operate functionally but incapable of closing without an apparent gap.
To make matters even worse, the crown wasn't flush with the case. The angle can be seen in this photo.
[photo taken 2020]
My local watchmaker serviced the movement back in 2018 but didn't address the issue of the mangled crown, probably because I told him I felt it was original. And indeed, it ran exceedingly well after he serviced it, easily within contemporary chronometer standards. But the crown's functionality (resistance to water ingress) and appearance bothered me to no end.
So a few months ago, I took it back to him.
"Do you think you could install a new case tube, like you did for my ref 2608?"
He started taking the watch apart.
"Crown no good, not original. It should be recessed. This crown isn't. And the stem is wrong tap. Need both. Lots of work involved."
As it happened, he fortunately had an original Omega stem in his parts supply. But no crown.
"I'll call you."
Weeks went by before he called.
"Please come over."
He showed me a NOS stem. "Correct stem - tap 6. Can't find an Omega tap 6 crown. Need to use one of these." (Pointing at two vintage Hamilton crowns.)
I was dejected, but determined to press on. "Ok, let's use this one (pointing at the flatter of the two)." I was resigned to having a totally incorrect crown fitted to my precious Omega.
"I'll call you. Give me time."
A few weeks later, I was looking over Otto Frei's listings of Omega crowns, and much to my surprise, there was a crown listed for ref 2366!** Bestfit 8100/1136. But they only had yellow gold versions in stock - no plain steel.
I searched the internet far and wide. No 8100/1136W crowns to be had. Zip. Nada.
Then, I remembered Chase who works for a parts supplier in downtown LA. He saved my ref 2518 by having the correct crown (8100/1018Y) in stock.
I sent him a text. A few days later came the reply.
"Yes, we have the crown you need."
π
Two days later I stopped by and picked up the crown. The following day I was back at my watchmaker's shop.
"Guess what?"
I showed him the crown.
"This crown is good. It will fit. Give me some time."
Today, the phone rang.
"Your Omega is ready."
He had to fashion a case tube from a nominally larger one, but at least the stem and crown are original Omega replacements.
As they say, "All's well that ends well."
π
* with apologies to Dinah Washington
** also ref 2364
