Basel 2009: Omega Seamaster 600 Ploprof

Basel 2009: Omega

By Timm Delfs

 

 

One of the landmarks in Omega's eventful history is the Seamaster 600 model launched in 1970.  This timekeeper was intended for professional divers and had nothing in common with anything trying to have a hint of elegance.  It was made to be a tool, robust, edgy and heavy (lightweight didn't matter under water anyway).  Therefore its nickname "Ploprof", which was short for "Plongeurs Professionnels", stuck to it immediately.  A characteristic red button had to be pushed to release the bezel to avoid readout mistakes during compression time.  The crown, located on the left, was protected under a cover that had to be released if you wanted to adjust anything having to do with the position of the hands. It was definitely not designed by any designer and yet it become some sort of a design icon.

 

 

 

This watch, that was recently highly demanded on internet platforms like ebay, was re-launched at this year's Baselworld.  Omega was so wise not to make too many changes to the original design and concentrate on inner values.  The watch is equipped with Omega's in-house automatic calibre 8500 with a Daniels co-axial escapement and a 60-hour power reserve.  The case has been improved to double the water-resistance to 1200 meters.  The watch is available either with a black or orange rubber strap or a so-called "shark-proof" stainless-steel-mesh bracelet equipped with Omega's new clasp that can easily be adjusted to different arm sizes.  This makes it possible to wear it over your diving suit.

 

 

 

The Bienne-based brand had a good reason to celebrate the 40^th anniversary of the first moon landing in 1969.  It was their Speedmaster that had been chosen and "flight-qualified by NASA for all manned space missions".  This actually meant a lot, because at the time protectionism was a big issue in the US, and all government divisions were to stick to a "Buy American Act" that obliged them to give preference to US products over foreign ones in all their acquisitions.  Deviations from this were only allowed if a foreign product was not to be beaten by a native one.  This was the case with the watches that had been bought anonymously by NASA functionnaires.  The only model that invariably excelled in all the torture-chamber tests the engineers had come up with, was the Speedmaster by Omega.  Thus it was to be a Swiss-made watch that in 1969 became the first timepiece worn on the surface of the moon, making the Speedmaster the "Moonwatch".

 

 

 

To commemorate this feat, Omega launched two special editions of this watch, which, in my opinion, is one of the most beautiful wrist chronographs ever made. One comes in steel like the original, the other one in platinum.  Both can easily be distinguished from the regular models by a commemorative plaque situated at the small seconds sub-dial.  The steel version has a silver plaque, whereas the one in the platinum edition is made from 18 ct gold.  The steel version is limited to 7969 pieces, whereas there will only be 69 pieces in platinum.  They are equipped with the manual Omega Cal 861, a 3 Hz calibre originally developed by Lemania to replace the 2.5 Hz Cal 321 with column wheel.  The 861 was used for the Speedmaster from 1968 onwards because it contained less components and was less expensive to manufacture.

 

 

 

Like the original Moonwatch the limited editions are equipped with Hesalite crystals that can easily recognized by the small central Omega logo on the inside.  They come in a commemorative box containing documents about the history that unites the Speedmaster with NASA, and a large coin made from sterling silver or gold respectively.

 

 

 

Another important icon in the history of the famous brand is the "Constellation".  Originally introduced in the forties to represent the peak of accuracy and invariably accompanied by a chronometer certificate, the model changed its status in 1982 with a complete redesign to become an elegant dress watch.  The designers equipped the case with four characteristic claws that pressed the bezel and crystal to the case of the watch.  The functional detail became a hallmark and continues to do so despite the fact that it has lost its functionality.  This year Omega has redesigned the complete "Constellation" line.  The clasps are now flattened in all models and much broader.  The metal bracelets still come in the familiar optics but have been made more comfortable.

 

 

 

Omega has also announced that most of their mechanical movements from now on will be equipped with the Daniels Co-axial escapement.