Omega Genève Ref. 137001 Caliber 602 Chronometer
Vintage

Omega Genève Ref. 137001 Caliber 602 Chronometer

By Tony C. · Dec 14, 2010 · 26 replies
Tony C.
WPS member · Omega forum
26 replies10064 views2 photos
f 𝕏 in 💬 🔗

Tony C. revisits a significant Omega reference, the caliber 602 manual-wind Genève chronometer, highlighting its unique position in Omega's history. His post, originally from 2010, sheds light on a rare, high-end dress watch produced in limited numbers, challenging common perceptions about the Genève line's repositioning.

As most vintage Omega collectors know, the Genève model line is unique in more than just name. I say that because when it was first introduced, in 1953, it was meant to make a statement, coming in the wake of Omega’s one-two-three sweep of the the previous year’s chronometer competition held at the Geneva Observatory. The early Genève models were, therefore, positioned at the higher end of the Omega catalogue.

Some collectors, myself included, are very attracted to the combination of the classic elegance of those early models, coupled with their historical import. The high-end Genèves were produced until 1967, after which the line was repositioned downward.

That demarcation, ending the run of the original, high-class Genève models, and beginning the production of entry and mid-level watches, is thought by many collectors to be both rather stark and definitive. But thanks to insights provided by one of the most knowledgable Omega collectors, our own Bill Sohne, I learned that there is one, glorious exception. That exception, manufactured in very small numbers by Omega standards, is the reference number 137001, caliber 602 manual-wind Genève chronometer.

Roughly 4000 of these chronometers were reportedly produced in and around 1969/70. They were marketed as a high-end dress watch, and as such, were only 33mm in diameter, and offered only in elegant 18k gold, waterproof, monocoque cases.

There were slightly different dial variations offered, and the one shown below is my personal favorite. It features applied gold markers with onyx inlays at 3, 6, 9, and 12, an applied gold Omega symbol, and a very well-executed printed second, minute, and hour track, including finely applied tritium nestled inside of black frames above each hour marker. The baton hands include both onyx inserts, and tritium at the ends. It is worth noting that, at least on my example, the hands have survived their 40 years without any signs of degradation. I mention that because in my experience, many (if not most) watches made in the 1950s through the early/mid ‘60s, including some made by the very highest level manufacturers (e.g. Audemars Piguet), used either a lighter allow for their gold hands, or a plating of some sort. As a result, it is quite common to find that the hands on such watches have oxidized, or aged less gracefully than their surrounding case and markers.

The caliber 602 movement was the last manual-wind chronometer movement made by Omega up until the contemporary Railmaster. It is quite similar to the much more common caliber 601 movement, which is a good segue to a rather interesting little mystery. The cal. 601 movements are often marked “adjusted to two positions”, though they were used mostly in lower and mid-range models, and were not (to my knowledge) ever chronometer certified. Ironically, however, the cal. 602 movements, which were all certified chronometers, were not marked as having been adjusted!

Whatever the reason for that odd difference, I am quite happy to present my one and only, and distinctly anomalous, later production Genève. And many thanks to Bill, as always, for his valuable advice.



This message has been edited by Dr No on 2025-10-15 18:12:59

Key Points from the Discussion

Advertisement
The Discussion
TE
tee530
Dec 15, 2010

Thanks a lot Tony, this is an informative post and the photos are beautiful. The accuracy in placing the little paddles of lume inside the black boxes on the dial is admirable. Followup question for you or Graham on cals 601 and 602: were different parts with higher quality finishing used in 602, or are the parts interchangeable? Tom

MS
MSNWatch
Dec 15, 2010

and very difficult to locate. Wear it in good health. Here is a link to a post I made here in the purists about this nice uncommon cal. 602 geneve I obtained about 2 years ago. omega.watchprosite.com

G9
G99
Dec 15, 2010

Tom, i have absolutely no idea. here's a pic of the 601 so we can compare it with the 602. best graham

DE
DeGeus
Dec 15, 2010

..book (Marco Richon) gives the following information: 600 27.90SC PC AM 17P 1960 (manuel version of 550) Seamaster 409.000 pieces 601 27.90SC T1 PC AM 17P 1960 Seamaster -De Ville -Genève 831.000 pieces 602 27.90SC T1 PC AM bull 17P 1964 Constellation (rare) This could mean that the 602 is essentially a 601 which underwent additional regulation at the factory in order to receive a bulletin. Ben.

TO
Tony C.
Dec 16, 2010

My understanding through Bill is that the book that Ben referenced is incorrect. That is to say that the 602 movements were used exclusively in this model Genève, and not in the Constellation. If anyone has evidence of a 602 Constellation, please do share it with the forum. With regards to the 601 and 602 calibers, while they are fundamentally the same, there are a few distinctions. Bill can elaborate when he has a chance, as I did not retain the details when we had this discussion. Regards, Ton

FA
FanFrancisco
Dec 16, 2010

... after reading your post, i am now even proud of being one of the owners for this Cal.602. in any case, the dial of your watch is exceptionally outstanding. stefan

Advertisement

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Omega forum with 26 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →