Teutonic Watch Style: Elegant or Handsome?

TheMadDruid · 2018-04-21T09:56:10Z

Debate the elegance vs. handsomeness of Teutonic watches like Moritz Grossmann Atum and Lange Richard Lange PLM. Explore design, movement, and wrist presence.

TheMadDruid

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

41 replies6734 views4 photos

TheMadDruid sparks a discussion on the aesthetic of 'Teutonic style' watches, specifically questioning whether models like the Moritz Grossmann Atum and A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Pour le Mérite are elegant or merely handsome. The post delves into their size, height, and design influences, inviting community debate on their classification.

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When I first posted pictures of this Moritz Grossmann several PuristS criticized the watch for its size-specifically its height.

It is 11mm tall-which certainly isn't a "thin" watch.

The same can be said for the Richard Lange PLM, although the height is slightly less-10mm.

The diameters are 41+mm and 40mm respectively. So these are not truly classical "dress" watches. Nor are the dials classically dressy. Both watches are modern interpretations of 18th or 19th Century chronometers; perhaps more specifically ships' chronometers. I am sure no one would call those "elegant".

I do not think either Grossmann or Lange was attempting "elegance" in these pieces; nor do I consider them elegant. Both brands have other watches that might fit that description: the Tefnut from M.G. and the Saxonia Thin from Lange. I would call these two pieces handsome. I think they are both very attractive watches; and of course they are both marvels of style and finishing. But that doesn't have to equate to elegance.

Agree? Disagree?

Key Points from the Discussion

Despite their 40.5mm and 41mm sizes, watches like the Moritz Grossmann Atum and A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Pour le Mérite can be considered classy if the wearer's wrist size allows them to be pulled off gracefully.
The thickness of these watches is often necessary to showcase the beauty and depth of their movements, such as the Moritz Grossmann Atum's 36.4mm movement with a minimal case surround.
A. Lange & Söhne specifically designs its cases with a certain height, a characteristic that Moritz Grossmann, founded by ex-ALS workers, also adopts, reflecting a 'Saxony way' of watchmaking.
The design philosophy of these watches often prioritizes the movement, with the case serving primarily to protect it, appealing to collectors who appreciate horological mechanics.
The RW Smith Series 2, at 13.5mm thick, raises questions about whether its elegant dial can overcome its substantial height for daily wear.
The Breguet 5277, while stylish and more affordable, has straight lugs that make it wear larger than its 38mm size, contrasting with watches featuring shorter, curved lugs.

The Discussion

emcquillan

Apr 21, 2018

A gentleman's watch

That's what a couple friends have expressed to me when I've worn my simple sweep seconds Richard Lange. I think your watches fit that description perfectly. Best,

TheMadDruid

Apr 21, 2018

That's a good description.

And it cleverly avoids taking sides on the issue of "elegance"!

Walter2

Apr 21, 2018

The relation 4 : 1 is the "Golden Cut" for a watchcase (Walter)

The problem of this case - if it is problem for someone - is, there is no design. It is not more than a can. A can had no design, but I love it ! Best Walter

TheMadDruid

Apr 21, 2018

Which? Or both? [nt]

Walter2

Apr 21, 2018

Both !

I think, this two watches going back to the roots of watchmaking, where the case of a watch only protected the movement. This is nice philosophy, because the virtues of this watches are the movements. I love this watches, because I love movements. Congratulations ! Best Walter

sham1

Apr 21, 2018

Both watches are discreetly elegant

in my opinion despite the 40.5mm and 41mm sizes. If one has the wrist to pull it off, then, yes the watches are classy despite them not being ultra slim. The thickness was necessary on both watches to accentuate the beauty of the movement and please note that the Moritz Grossmann has a 36.4mm movement which allows a tiny surround of 5.6mm giving the movement a beautiful effect. The Tefnut's movement is not as pretty as the Atum in the photo as it lacks depth due to the relative thinness of the w