KMII provides a second look at the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph, positioning it as a robust and versatile everyday timepiece. This review delves into its design influences, wearability, and value proposition compared to its more exclusive monopusher sibling, offering collectors a practical perspective on this accessible chronograph.
While the Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph LE 100 (here:
www.watchprosite.com
for more) - rightfully - got the most coverage amongst Montblanc’s newly expanded 1858 collection during and after SIHH2018, it is possibly its less illustrious cousin - the 1858 Automatic Chronograph - that is likely to be seen most often on wrists in the wild. Slowly reaching ADs and Boutiques in all its forms (here:
www.watchprosite.com
for the range and here:
www.watchprosite.com
for first impressions), it makes for an excellent allrounder chronograph.
Here are some additional impressions. The design cues are largely taken from the Minerva Pythagore Aviation (here:
www.watchprosite.com
for details) and successfully adapted to a chronograph. As such the watch blends seamlessly into the 1858 range and may well be a Goldilocks in terms of the non-Villeret part of the collection.
You certainly give up the astounding Minerva Villeret movement but keep most of the design elements in a more robust, everyday compatible package, at a very different price range. While the latter aspect is certainly likely to make the watch a much larger seller for Montblanc, it may well be seen with some apprehension by owners of the 1858 Tachymeter or similar. While the two pieces do share a design language, I would still see a sufficient difference for the former not to diminish the latter in its appeal or value.
In addition to the two steel cased, black dial versions (different straps), there’s a bronze one with a champagne dial, too.
While I have praised the excellent, vintage feel calf leather strap in my previous report, I have to admit that the watch sits on the wrist even better with the canvas option. I guess it would be a sensible choice to get both anyway, since they subtly alter the character of the watch and make it more broadly usable in combination.
The pusher feel is certainly not as buttery smooth as with a horizontal clutch, column wheel 16.29 and the solid case back - while in my opinion the correct choice in this application - will not hold the magic in quite the same way, either.
Another small design detail is that the running seconds subdial and the 30 minute chronograph one have the same hands, which makes no distinction between the time and timing functions - something better solved in the Tachymeter.
And one has to praise Montblanc for offering a relatively mainstream watch without a date - something that certainly helps the overall dial balance and symmetry.
Looking forward to seeing some here, too!
About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858
The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.
This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.
For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Boucheron 1858
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Sapphire
