Mermont Watches: New Independent Brand Overview
Independents

Mermont Watches: New Independent Brand Overview

By sebks · Jan 28, 2026 · 18 replies
sebks
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
18 replies995 views15 photos
f 𝕏 in 💬 ✉ 🔗

Sebks, co-founder of the new independent brand Mermont, introduces his vision for the 'montre de philosophe' to the WatchProSite community. His post delves into the brand's unique philosophy of time, its distinctive design choices, and the collaborative craftsmanship that defines its inaugural offering. This article explores how Mermont aims to carve a niche in independent watchmaking by prioritizing artisanal finishing and a unique single-hand display.

18 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →
Dear All,

You might have heard of the new Mermont via Monochrome and WatchesbySJX already, but as a long time reader (and occasional poster) I would like to share more with the Watchprosite community as well.

!!! Full disclaimer: I'm the co-founder of the brand !!! 



Our first objective with Mermont is to produce the nicest possible "montre de philosophe" (Philosopher's watch), meaning a watch with a single hour hand to display the time. 

I've been an avid collector for more than 20 years and I'm absolutely passionate about single hand watches for 2 main reasons:

- It provides a new relationship to time. The watch is virtually motionless, which enables to really focus on the moment (no constant reminder that time is running out) - that's the "philosopher's" part (but still super easy to read the time, each mark on the minute track indicates 10 minutes)

- It removes the technical constraints related to stack height, allowing to make a hand with unprecedented curves and volumes. 




Our second objective is to offer a "taste" of independent watchmaking but with a different recipe: Each Mermont is hand finished, finely regulated and assembled by master watchmaker and AHCI member Nicolas Delaloye in his Geneva workshop, but the focus of his work is on the finishing of the hand rather than on the movement. This allows to keep the price in an "unusual" range. 












Some specifications / background info:

- 38mm*9.2mm case

- Platinum (Pt950) case, crown and buckle, combined with a tantalum screwed case back (30 meters water resistance). This gives a nice contrast between the dark grey blue of the tantalum back and the ultra white shine of the platinum case... but only the wearer can appreciate it



- Hand: carved out of mild steel, flame heat treated and then mirror polished by hand for 4 hours by Mr Delaloye. No surface coating, only black polish magic!




- Dial: Curved sunburst with zapon lacquer, a very traditional process but with a twist! 2 unique colors specially developed for Mermont: Salmon (18 pieces, sold out) and Blue (28 pieces)... and a secret signature 






- Movement: Lajoux-Perret D101 in "top grade" with cotes de geneve, perlage, etc... A very simple and robust workhorse, making the watch thin and easily serviceable. Finely regulated to +/- 3 seconds per day. 

- Price: 10 998 chf (excluding tax and duties)

- Project duration: > 2 years: 1 year from initial brief to final drawing (I thank Diego, our designer, for his patience smile ), 1 year from final drawing to final prototype. The fact that Breguet recently won the GPHG with their amazing Souscription is a coincidence, not a direct inspiration (production of the prototype started 6 months before the Breguet release) 

- Except the movement each component has been developed specifically for Mermont - no "catalog" part 

- Most challenging aspect of starting a new brand from scratch: convincing the right partners and suppliers to support the project despite the small quantities (we will make less than 50 pieces per year)

- Most satisfying aspect: getting fellow one hand enthusiasts from across the world appreciate the watch! 

Cheers,

Seb












About the Mermont 1928 Ref. 1928

The Mermont 1928 marks the inaugural offering from the nascent independent brand Mermont, establishing its aesthetic and horological intent from the outset. Launched as a contemporary tribute, the "1928" designation hints at a design ethos rooted in a specific historical period, drawing inspiration from early 20th-century watchmaking. This debut piece immediately positions Mermont within the growing segment of micro-brands that prioritize distinctive design and accessible mechanical horology, aiming to carve out a unique identity rather than merely replicating established archetypes.

Technically, the Mermont 1928 features a 39mm stainless steel case, a versatile dimension that suits a broad range of wrists. The deep blue dial, characterized by a subtle sunburst finish, provides a dynamic backdrop for the stylized white Arabic numerals. A standout design element is the unique handset: polished, slender hands with a distinctive spade-shaped hour hand and a minute hand featuring an elegant heart-shaped counterweight. Powering the watch is a manual-winding Unitas 6498-1 movement, a robust and historically significant caliber originally designed for pocket watches, known for its reliability and large balance wheel, which is often admired through exhibition casebacks.

As a new entrant, the Mermont 1928 appeals to collectors seeking originality and the opportunity to support emerging independent watchmakers. Its blend of vintage-inspired aesthetics, a proven mechanical movement, and a distinctive dial design offers a compelling value proposition in a competitive market. While its long-term collectibility is yet to be fully established, its unique design language and the brand's clear vision suggest a promising trajectory for Mermont within the independent watchmaking landscape, attracting enthusiasts who appreciate thoughtful design and mechanical integrity.

Specifications

Case
steel
Diameter
39mm
Dial
blue

Key Points from the Discussion

Advertisement
The Discussion
AU
AuHavrePro
Jan 28, 2026

Love the motivation and, pun intended, philosophy behind it 🙂. The execution and price point is likewise admirable! Sincere congratulations, I will remain attuned to what you guys do going forward!! Cheers, Filip

SE
sebks
Jan 28, 2026

…Because they were selling a lot of watches to their export market… Mermont is the contraction of « Merveilleuses Montres » (wonderful watches in French), because that’s what we try our best to do

QU
quattro
Jan 29, 2026

and, most importantly, congratulations! I love the case profile and the idea of a one-hand watch. One question I have is: does the open heart on the hand align with the brand name at 12 and the secret signature "La parfaite" at 6 o'clock or does it overlap these writings? Best, Emmanuel

SE
sebks
Jan 29, 2026

We tried to make the opening align with the logo but proportions were a bit off when keeping the tip of the hand at the perfect length to reach the minute track. Also something I forgot to mention: the opening is not a heart, it’s a « negative » ace of spade

QU
quattro
Jan 29, 2026

Thanks for your answer.

SE
sebks
Jan 30, 2026

We use the best grade from LJP: we chose simplicity, robustness and serviceability over more « exotic » options… because we wanted to offer a lot of artisanal finishing work on the hand and platinum case while keeping the price as close as possible to 10k chf - Nicolas does an amazing finish on his own movements but his watches are not in the same league and price range of course.

Advertisement

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Horological Meandering forum with 18 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →