Independents
SJX's interview with Denis Giguet, founder of Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (MCT), provides a fascinating look into the brand's unique approach to horology. Giguet, formerly of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces and Rolex, shares insights into MCT's focus on novel time displays and the meticulous development process behind their Sequential One model. This article is essential for understanding the innovative spirit driving independent watchmaking.
Denis Giguet founded Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (MCT) after leaving Harry Winston Rare Timepieces (HWRT), where he was Production Director. There are hints of the Opus watches in MCT; Giguet only focuses on novel displays of time and other functions. In the distant future there may be an MCT perpetual calendar with an innovative display according to Giguet.
Prior to HWRT, Giguet was at Rolex for six years where he was head of special projects. His tenure there was a “very interesting experience”. At Rolex new developments took a long, long time to bear fruit, with tremendous amounts of testing before anything went into production. He cites the example of the current generation of Rolex bracelets, which were under development for years, with 15 engineers working only on bracelet development.As a result, according to Giguet, Rolex quality – as a wearable timekeeper – is top notch.
MCT unveiled its first and so far only model, the Sequential One, in 2008. Hours are displays on rotating louvers while the minutes run on a track that jumps every hour. This video explains it best:
During the initial stages of MCT’s formation, Giguet worked with Hautlence to share components but that did not pan out. MCT now obtains all its components from suppliers, fabricated and finished to its specifications; the Sequential One uses the Straumann double hairspring developed by H. Moser & Cie. The movements are proprietary and designed entirely in-house. Even though the watches are unusual in look and function, Giguet prefers traditionally styled and finished movements, hence the screwed balance of the Sequential One.
The Sequential One on Giguet's wrist
MCT now has six employees, with assembly of the Sequential One, its only model so far, done in Geneva while the brand’s administrative offices are in Neuchâtel. MCT only makes 50 watches a year, with Asia being its biggest market. But Giguet has plans to grow the line-up. January 2011 will see the Sequential One in a new case shape, while two models with new movements will be presented later next year.
The Sequential One is available in a cushion-shaped case in either white or rose gold. It is a large watch and feels chunky on the wrist; in fact it feels similar to many of the Opus watches.
Two dial variants for both metals are available, white or black. Surprisingly enough the black and white dials are radically different in look and feel. The black dial looks sporty while the white dial feels much cleaner and lighter.
Several new variants of the Sequential One have been introduced this year, including this striking black and edition.
This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-10-04 07:08:03
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
And here are some worthy photos of the Sequential One. This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-10-03 01:59:28
I remember looking at this at SbM last year or the year before and looking at your wonderful pictures seals the deal. As a watch, I dislike it. The case is massive, and the dial(can you call it a dial) unbalanced to my eyes. There's also the dichotomy between the "engineering aesthetic" of the front, with as many screws, gears and springs as possible visable and the very sober semi-classical movement (unusually cut plates, but the circular waves are very staid). Then that look is broken by the u
The Hour Glass, MCT’s retail partner in SE Asia, invited a handful of collectors to lunch with Denis Giguet at Taste Paradise, a modern Chinese restaurant in Singapore’s premier shopping mall ION Orchard. As usual (several watch events have been held here before) the food was excellent and fairly interesting. The watches worn by the attendees were remarkable. They included the JLC Gyrotourbillon 1, Gyrotourbillon 2, Parmigiani Bugatti and Harry Winston Opus V. This message has been edited by SJX
Those Gyros are amazing. Love them. Thanks for sharing. Vte
..job Denis! i love the Sequential One! cheers
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