Massena Labs Archetype 0.0 Gilt Dial Review

Patrick_y's review of the Massena Labs Archetype 0.0 Gilt Dial offers a deep dive into a compelling independent timepiece. His analysis not only evaluates the watch's design and quality but also contextualizes Massena Labs within the evolving landscape of small-batch horology. This article explores how independent brands like Massena Labs carve out their niche by blending unique aesthetics with accessible value, a critical consideration for collectors today.

Moderator Patrick_y reviews the Massena Labs Archetype 0.0 timepiece.  A small production timepiece from a new independent brand that features a strikingly beautiful gilt dial.  Read on and find out what Patrick_y's verdict is about the watch! 

Introduction of Massena Labs

Small independents represent a sweet spot in the watch industry.  In order to survive, these independents need to get onto the radar of watch critics and vocal collectors, and in order to do so – they need to offer a unique design and excellent quality at a reasonable price to create excellent value.  Independents have also become increasingly varied.  Some are expensive, others are extremely expensive.  Some are vertical manufactures that produce multiple components and most are tiny outfits that design their own product and contract various vendors to make cases, dials, movements, and even assembly.  Many of the smaller independents aren’t even carried by retailers and enjoy a direct to consumer approach.  This is great because the retailer’s margin is forgone, allowing the consumer to usually get the watch direct from the independent at a more reasonable price, sometimes forging a strong and educational relationship with the brand.  Last but not least, almost all independents offer their products in extremely low volumes, so exclusivity is almost guaranteed. 

Massena Labs is a new independent brand.  Massena Labs was started by William Massena (who also goes by William Rohr), an unapologetic and outspoken New Yorker whom I first met over a decade ago.  I haven’t met him more than a few times over the years, so I can’t say I know the man extremely well, but I’d definitely say he had an unabashed sense of style and a strong belief of how certain watches should look.  Massena was also formerly a very active member on the WatchProSite forum back in the day and a moderator on Timezone. 

The Watch Itself…

The watch is a large watch, generously proportioned at 42mm in diameter and 13mm thick, it’s not a small piece at all.  Lug to lug at 48mmis actually more compact than is 42mm case size suggests.  It’s a little large on my relatively small 6 inch or 15 cm circumference wrist.  It’s got a commanding presence and that true gilt dial just oozes vintage feel in a “modern” size.  The strap has modern proportions; 20x16, a tiny bit small for the 42mm, but appropriate for the modern vibe.  If you’re a smaller individual, this watch will be a tad bit generous.  But otherwise, you’ll enjoy this watch with its commanding presence. 

The Case is finished beautifully.  Some case parts are brushed, some are polished, and overall it’s a cohesive combination that makes the case look smaller than it is.  The crystal is stepped on the outer edge and domed, not a less expensive flat crystal.  Overall the watch looks much more expensive than the $4250.00 USD price suggests. 

Notice the case has a pleasing combination of brushed and polished surfaces. 

The Dial is the biggest point on this watch!  What a dial!  The dial alone is worth the price of admission for this watch.  I always say, for a car lover, buying an Aston Martin for the sound of the engine alone isn’t a waste of money.  Buying this watch for the dial alone will not disappoint!  The dial is a true GILT dial with beautiful gold gilt font.  The font has beautiful serifs (tails) on the ends of the numbers (a nod towards its vintage inspiration) which is a welcome contrast to sans serif style fonts that are used in most modern watches today.  One will notice the “MASSENA” and subdial register printings are not done in gilt but are printed instead.  Even the font is of a vintage design.  I can’t think of any modern watch today with a gilt dial.  Gilt dials are also incredibly difficult to make due to getting the type just perfect.  The gilt dial has beautiful deep and flat mirror-like black finishes and the gold markings are beautifully made.  The gold hands are a perfect match to the gilt dial.  Again, you would not be crazy to just buy this watch for the gilt dial alone!  Very few watches today offer a true gilt dial due to the complexity and difficulty to manufacture!  Also, Gilt dials generally incur high reject rates, which contributes to reasons why many manufacturers don’t make them since other methods are much more reliable. 

The Movement is a large SW510 hand wound chronograph movement.  This movement does not have a traditional column wheel.  It is 30mm in diameter and 7mm high, runs at a more modern 4 Hz (28,800 vph), and features a practical 58 hours of power reserve!  This watch has a vintage exterior, but a slightly more up to date interior!  The movement isn't visible as the back is solid. 

Conclusion…

I haven’t had the watch for very long as mine was delivered only a month ago.  So I must admit that I haven’t really worn.  But I have admired it greatly for many hours and I just can’t get over that dial.  In a world when vintage watches seem to be all the rage, this watch represents an incredible value at $4250.  The dial alone is worth the price of admission.  I’ve seen multi-million dollar watch collections without a gilt dial!  For a vintage watch, you don’t have to deal with any of the pains of a vintage watch; no fragile movement, no unsightly lug holes for the strap/bracelet that are drilled in the side of the case (I am personally not fond of lug holes).  A great case/crystal look with a beautiful brushed and polished design. 

If you’ve got a nice worn jacket with a vintage military look, and you want a vintage looking timepiece, or a gilt dial (or both); and don’t mind a slightly larger piece.  This vintage piece is one to grace your wrist with! 

PROS:

1.     That Gilt dial is super!  The gloss of the dial is perfect, and the font is very appropriate.

2.     Super rare timepiece, I’d be surprised if there were more than 30 of these made thus far.  Exclusivity is guaranteed.

3.     In addition to the rarity of the timepiece, it’s important to note that gilt dials themselves are extremely rare.

4.     It’s got that vintage look without the vintage headaches. 

5.     The design of the watch is superlative and will lend itself well to a variety of strap colors.  Golden brown (supplied), black, burgundy, navy, hunter green, various shades of brown, and burnt orange. 

CONS:

1.     Watch is generously sized, especially for a vintage looking piece.  Looks great as a sporty aviator’s watch! 

2.     Movement employs a cam system rather than column wheel system.  I’d prefer a column wheel system. 

3.     Small production due to exclusivity and restrictions when it comes to gilt dial production.