Masahiro Kikuno: Independent Watchmaker Overview

quattro · 2026-05-31T16:03:51Z

Explore the unique creations of Masahiro Kikuno, the first Japanese AHCI member. Discover his Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon, Wadokei, and other artistic timepieces.

quattro

WPS member · Independents forum

26 replies387 views68 photos

Masahiro Kikuno stands as a pivotal figure in independent watchmaking, being the youngest and first Japanese full member of the AHCI. His work is celebrated for its profound originality and unique artistic vision, pushing the boundaries of traditional horology. This extensive overview by quattro meticulously chronicles Kikuno's creations, offering a chronological journey through his distinctive timepieces.

26 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →

Born on February 8, 1983 in Hokkaidō, Japanese watchmaker Masahiro Kikuno is one of the most original and unique independent creators.

He became the youngest member of the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants) and the first Japanese full member, at age 30.

credit: Masahiro Kikuno

I find his watchmaking work very interesting, so let's take a look at his creations in chronological order.

I have tried to be as complete as possible, but I might have missed some pieces, of course.

A/ HIS FIRST TIMEPIECE

A time-only wristwatch with a retrograde display made during his four-year course at the Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry in Shibuya, Tokyo.

credit: Masahiro Kikuno

B/ PERPETUAL CALENDAR TOURBILLON - 2011

Case: φ44.0mm,thickness:17.3mm

Base movement: eta.6497-1; Manual-winding

Hand made train-bridge

Perpetual calendar; Tourbillon

Dial: Hand paint calendar disk

Hands: Blue steel

credit: Masahiro Kikuno & jewelry.ac.jp

C/ WADOKEI - TEMPORAL HOUR WATCH - 2011

“Wadokei” means “Japanese clock” and refers to a Japanese traditional method of counting time, where hours between sunrise and sunset are divided into 6 and used as one counting unit.

The time of sunset and sunrise varies along the season, so this unit hour changes by season.

Therefore, in the Temporal Hour Watch, the space between index will be longer in daytime and shorter in night time on the summer solstice, while shorter in daytime and longer in night time on the winter solstice.

Case: 50.0x44.0mm, thickness:16.0mm

Base movement: eta.6498-1; Manual-winding;

Hand made train-bridge; Temporal hour display

Dial: Hand-painting index

Hands: Blue steel;Golden steel (Tempered steel).

Wadokei Revision - 2015

credit: Masahiro Kikuno

credit: @swisswatchgang & @shipoli_e

Kikuno’s personal wadokei worn as a pocket watch

credit: Sjx & ameblo.jp

Wadokei Revision Gyousyou - 2016

credit: Sjx

Wadokei Revision Jikon - 2017

credit: Masahiro Kikuno

Wadokei Revision Zuisho - 2022

credit: Masahiro Kikuno

Wadokei Revision Ishizue - 2025

credit: Masahiro Kikuno

D/ TOURBILLON - 2012

Case:43 mm 18k Rose gold

Movement: cal.mk12

19 jewels

1 minute Tourbillon

manual winding

Herringbone finish

credit: Masahiro Kikuno & Hodinkee Japan

E/ ORIZURU - 2013

Chiming watch with Origami automaton.

credit: Masahiro Kikuno & Hodinkee Japan

F/ MOKUME - 2014

Mokume Gane, meaning “wood grain metal,” is a Japanese metalworking technique developed by a gifted craftsman named Denbei Shoami (1651–1728).

Originating during the Edo period, it was first used for samurai sword fittings, showcasing layered patterns resembling wood grain created by fusing different metals like gold, silver, and copper.

Dial made of wood grain gold and case made of bronze.

Case: 43mm thickness 12mm cut from bronze or stainless steel

Movement: cal.mk14 with unique modifications to ETA6498

Hand-wound

Small second

18000 vibration/h 17 stones

Wood grain gold dial

credit: Masahiro Kikuno, Hodinkee Japan & @dmgreen11

credit: A Blog To Watch

G/ SAKUBOU - 2017

"Saku" means the "new moon" and "Bou" means the "full moon", so this word "SAKUBOU" means both new and full moon.

Size - 38 mm case - Kuro-Shibuichi and White gold

"Shibuichi" is the alloy 75% copper and 25% silver. Shibuichi means "quarter", so 25% silver made that name. It contained a tiny bit of gold, too.

"Kuro-Shibuichi" is 40% of "Shibuichi" and 60% of "Shakudo" which is the alloy of copper + 3% gold.

Water resistant - 3 ATM

Movement - cal. mk17

Frequency - 28,800 vph

Number of the stones - 22

Manual winding

Moonphase (accuracy of one day per 122 years) engraved by Masahiro Kikuno

credit: Masahiro Kikuno, Orologi di Classe and Hodinkee Japan

credit: @crazywatches

credit: Monochrome & @horologybythesea

credit: @ahci_updates

H/ SO - 2024

Powered by a Seiko cal. NH34A with uniquely designed celestial display module, the constellation disk represents the starry sky as seen from the ground at 35 degrees north latitude.

North is at 12 o'clock, West at 3 o'clock, South at 6 o'clock, East at 9 o'clock, and Polaris at the center of the dial, rotating counterclockwise in a cycle of approximately 23 hours 56 minutes.

Named “SO”, meaning “blue” in Japanese, Kikuno refers to the cursive script or grass script in East Asian calligraphy, which is also pronounced “So”.

About this piece unique, Kikuno explains, “I made this watch for myself because I wanted a watch that could be used in a relaxed manner without being overbearing. I don’t have any plan to produce this watch in the future.”

37.6 mm diameter

credit: @swisswatchgang

credit: Hodinkee Japan

credit: @iso.chrono

I/ COMPLICATION “INHERIT”

Minute repeater, chronograph, tourbillon, power reserve indicator.

Case diameter 39 mm, thickness 12 mm

First watch made using CNC.

credit: @swisswatchgang, Masahiro Kikuno, @t_blue473 & @hiro_beachi

What do you think about these timepieces and do you have a favorite?

Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2105

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 44.5 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Masahiro Kikuno's watches are highly imaginative, distinctive, poetic, and beautiful, placing them firmly in the art category despite some variations in finishing.
The Wadokei, in any iteration, is a particularly captivating piece, highlighting Kikuno's unique approach to timekeeping.
The Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon from 2012 is a standout creation among Kikuno's diverse portfolio.

The Discussion

Concord

May 31, 2026

What an incredibly talented man!

Wadokei, any iteration will Make me happy for a long while. But all his watches are in the art category. Thank you Emmanuel. Best , Ashot

quattro

May 31, 2026

I agree with you, Ashot:

all his watches are in the art category. His work doesn’t always feature the best finishing, but it’s so imaginative, distinctive, poetic and beautiful… I find it quite fascinating. Best, Emmanuel

SALMANPK

May 31, 2026

Wonderful Watchmaking ❤️❤️❤️, the Tourbillon 2012 is my favorite, thank you, Great Post 😊👍

quattro

May 31, 2026

Wonderful indeed!

These watches are so different from what we are used to see. The tourbillon 2012 is a great piece indeed. I also like the Wadokei and Mokume quite a bit. And the dial side of the So (not the movement, though). Best, Emmanuel

AuHavrePro

May 31, 2026

Wildly imaginative and original timepieces =))

The Wadokei are my favorite, not just philosophically, but artistically as well. However, all of his watches are wonderful art pieces that I'd be overjoyed to examine in person . Thank you so much for sharing this extensive pictorial with us Emmanuel, Filip

quattro

May 31, 2026

“Wildly imaginative” is very well said, Filip!

I’m glad you like this unique watchmaking too! Thanks for your enthusiasm. Best, Emmanuel