De Bethune DB28
Independents

De Bethune DB28 "Commande Special" Rose Gold Zirconium

By moc · Dec 18, 2013 · 51 replies
moc
WPS member · Independents forum
51 replies14225 views0 photos
f 𝕏 in 💬 ✉ 🔗

Moc, a devoted De Bethune enthusiast, shares his journey of commissioning a unique DB28 "Commande Special." His post highlights the brand's commitment to innovation and aesthetic diversity, moving beyond the conventional to create a truly personalized timepiece. This article explores the distinctive features and design choices that make his custom DB28 a testament to De Bethune's independent spirit.

51 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →
Yes it was obvious,all of you guessed correctly,what else could have committed for if not for another De Bethune.



My love for the brand is no mystery,I still consider De Bethune amongst the best independent brands,definitely my clear favourite.
I love many other independent watches but the difference with De Bethune is that they don t just offer one watch at the time,but constantly deliver new collections(even sometimes there is too much to digest in my opinion),never milk the same cow but push the boundaries all the time with great creations on both aspects technical and aesthetically.

De Bethune is a manufacture,not a name,not a single watchmaker,thats what I like most about them.

The quality and variety of each collection is enough to satisfy my craves for watches all year long so much they offer:classic,daring,experimental,but still with strong links to the history of horologerie,never for granted,never flashy for the sake of it but always with an enormous horological content.

More than a year ago I started planning my new De Bethune,it had to be something different from my starry sky,the eclectic collection of the brand left me with so many choices…but one in particular caught my eye,an example of design,sleekness,awesomeness,full of DB dna:the DB28.

After the DB 28 saw the international lights directed on him(especially after winning the controversial GPHH 2011),I decided to go for it,but as I was going independent again,I wanted to create something more personal,something with a little difference that will make it mine even more so.

De Bethune gave me the opportunity to customise and create a one of DB28 and I am ever so grateful they let me do it.

I must admit I prefer the normal DB28 to its tourbillon version,first and foremost I am not incredibly keen on the twirling escapement,secondly,the fact of having that beautiful silicon balance and its flat terminal curve spring breathing on your wrist makes up for it,thirdly I find the location of the moon phase at 6 an incredible successful design….when full it looks an inflated hour marker,when black it adds so much character,and when in between it s just magic to watch.
The moon indication had to be half silver(palladium),half black(zirconium) to match the beautiful rehaut and lugs…

After eyeing a great combination in their tourbillon version,I decided to go for a rose gold version with zirconium lugs,I wanted something opulent ,majestic,with loads of charm and mistery and I thought this combo could do the trick.







The use of polished zirconium for the floating lugs is just incredible,they look like they are made from glass,catching the light in such a way,so smooth and glossy…..and ..black!
These lugs are to die for,their design is just so clever,the watch floats on the wrist,its so comfortable.


The crown is a work of art….

Another request I made,which I think contribute to the opulence of this watch,and makes arguably the main feature ,was to flat polish the 2 lateral top bridges holding the triple parachute.
Normally they are decorated with cotes and have the barrel rubies showing trough.
I opted for a sheer black three bridges with no holes showing,reminiscing of the Dream Watch 1…the sleekness of these bridges is something I ve never seen before,the contrast with the cotes De Bethune underneath is just incredible.






Magnificent Zirconium buckle with RG pin

And the back….code is broken!


This watch is all about levels,details,constant change of rhythm to create a rich,indulgent symphony.
Not an easy understated watch for sure,but hell,I want to go bold but with overwhelming richness…and I think this watch has it all.

Now the honey moon begins,these are my first impressions,to tell you the truth,I need to digest it a lot,every time there are more details to look at….for example that optimum performance indicator between 2 and 3,the exotic materials involved….



I am not considering,yet,the technical aspects:the 6 days power reserve assured by the self regulating twin barrels,the triple parachute,the silicon escape wheel etc…..I am too taken by its overwhelming power …as i said I need to digest….and these are the first pictures I took with emergency means..I don t have my usual set up…

More will follow for sure,you will see a lot of this watch……as for me I am almost too excited,this is another slice of heaven…another dream I am so grateful to have achieved.

Mo

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber
DB2105
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
44.5 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Advertisement
The Discussion
CH
Chucky1103
Dec 18, 2013
Let me be the first to congratulate u

Beautiful piece

MO
moc
Dec 19, 2013
Thank you Chucky…appreciate it..

Mo

MA
Mark in Paris
Dec 18, 2013
Unleashed.

Yes, this is how DB knows to do the work and your guidelines seem to have given birth to something gorgeous. I also think the DB28 is particularly well rendering the brand's DNA and , aside of your Starysky, this watch is a fantastic base choice. I noticed the rose gold matched very nicely with the black finish when I saw the special editions they made with that combo. This balance wheel is my favorite among the several ones they created. The flat and perfect disk from which you only see the str

MO
moc
Dec 19, 2013
Dear Mark,thank you so much..

as a De Bethune lover and owner,I treasure your comment a lot! Yes the choice of the bridges is a good one I believe,it gives so much sleekness to the overall look. I just spent the day with it on the wrist and it feels fantastic,took more pictures….its honeymoon time anyway….. I will post more soon.. To answer your questions below: The performance indicator is present in all DB28 models,its just very very discreet,wow fantastic addition to an already wonderful watch,discreet but functional,and

SE
secretlife
Dec 18, 2013
Congrats!

I feel the same way about De Bethune; although mine is a more modest "garden variety" DB27. Their particular balance of aesthetic and technical, as well as modern and traditional, is something very special. I love the comfort, the performance, and the fact that it flies completely under the radar... Thank you for highlighting the tang buckle, which is my favourite feature and encapsulates (to me) the essence of DB - the fact that it's signed on the inside says everything!

MO
moc
Dec 19, 2013
I agree..

De Bethune is a mix of flamboyant look but in a way always understated,no much text in their watches….I believe they know their quality, their personality is so strong that they are very …confident…..rightfully so I believe. Thank you for your nice words.. Mo

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Independents forum with 51 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →