Defining Luxury Watch Brands: Guidelines & Debate
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Defining Luxury Watch Brands: Guidelines & Debate

By amanico · Jun 1, 2015 · 58 replies
amanico
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Amanico initiates a thought-provoking discussion on the guidelines for brands claiming to make luxury watches, challenging the conventional definition of 'expensive.' This article delves into the subjective nature of luxury, considering how price, craftsmanship, and customer experience contribute to a brand's perceived value. Readers are invited to explore the evolving landscape of luxury in horology and what truly defines a high-end timepiece.

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Ok, first you will tell me how can we define luxury watches.

-> Expensive?

 But what is an expensive? At what price a Watch can be considered as expensive?

For Watch addicts, the notion is all relative. A 5 000 Euros Watch is considered as an expensive item by most of the people who cannot understand how we can put such an amount of money in a timekeeper.

We should not ignore that point of view, nor laugh at it, because they are certainly right to think so.

Let's not forget what most of us thought when they bought their first Watch... " Damn, 3, 4 or 5 000 Euros for my first Watch, is it really reasonable "?

Now, putting 60 000 Euros on a very nice minute repeater cannot be considered as an expensive decision.

When you have in mind how much can cost a nice minute repeater, 50 or 60 000 Euros may not be considered as expensive. Or it may be madly expensive, if it is not that nice...

So, this notion is quite relative.

That being said, let's focus on what Luxury should focus on, or avoid...

-> Marketing:

 Making you believe than a Watch has something special when it is not the case... The marketing illusion.

Marketing is good when it helps you to understand a Watch, it is bad when it deceives you. Sadly, it is more often bad, or poor, than good.

Differently said, it is good to enhance the qualities of a product, it is awful to invent such qualities.

From Luxury to cheating... Brands should not forget that their customers have a brain, and that they quickly gain some knowledge and experience.

-> Quality:

Finishings, decoration, accuracy, reliability, sophistication, complexity, innovation, tradition, originality... All of that, but not necessarily.

A 5 000 to 10 000 Euros Rolex can be considered as a luxury Watch. It gives you the feeling it is, when you put it on your wrist. And in a certain way, it is.

The construction is irreprochable, the noise of the clasp is comparable to the matte sound of a door of a german car, the dials are most often well finished, the movements are accurate AND reliable, you have a kind of immediate pleasure, satisfaction. While on the other side, you have nothing exceptional nor sophisticated nor original nor complicated.

Rolex 16570 Explorer II, a friendly " bargain ":


While there are products from some brands which are much more expensive, and which cannot compete for the title of luxury watches. Just Marketing products...

-> Irreprochable Control Quality, Service Center:  

You have to avoid any control quality issues, but when it happens, you have to be obsessed by your customer's satisfaction. Same when you service your Watch.

Since we are discussing about costly items, this is mandatory for brands to be irreprochable. At any level. Solving the issue, and a small but symbolic gesture for the customer's pain should always be considered. Always.

That should be considered as the ultimate criteria which would allow everybody to make the distinction between a luxury brand and a common brand.

 -> Education , which includes: An impeccable welcome, fairness, transparency, excellent relations with the customers, generosity, sense of responsabilities.

- Impeccable welcome. We experimented that, but too rarely.

For brands who claims to belong to the Luxury Universe, they should have a work experience in some Luxury Hôtels, for example. They would learn a lot.

No agressivity, the client is not a cow to milk...This is not a very luxurious approach.

No indifference, either. Just the right amount of interest paid to anybody who does the favor to go into a shop or Boutique.

- Fairness and transparency:

Some points have already been mentionned in the " Marketing " Chapter, but let's go bit further.

Customers are not silly, and when they feel cheated, they are lost. One well known phenomenon, the so called limited editions.

Once you come with a Watch in limited edition, you should stick to your engagement. Making another limited edition which is just an iteration of a former Watch is just catastrophic. Panerai lost a lot of their collectors, at this " Out Of Range " game ( Cf PAM 127 / 217 to mention only these ones ).

And if you want to do so, announce it, rather than presenting another LE. Brands should always keep in mind the bad feeling their customers experiment when they buy a Watch thinking that they ALSO paid for a " slice " of exclusivity which will not survive to years... Fairness and Transparency.

- Sense of responsabilities:

When you deal with prestigious complications, it is not, in my opinion, very responsible to vulgarize them.

We already saw that with the Tourbillon, which is not rare anymore, nor costly. Is it luxurious anymore? I don't think so.

The Minute Repeater is still an expensive complication, but it has been too vulgarized by some brands, and here, I must be honest, I am thinking about Jaeger-Lecoultre: One Master Minute Repeater is great, two is ok. Three? That starts to be dangerous, but 4, 5, 6, 7 and more? Where is the so called exclusivity, even if the asking price is still high? And what about these automatic minute repeaters from the same brand? I am not sure it goes in the good direction.

The Jaeger-Lecoultre Minute Repeater, launched in 2005, in platinum ( 200 pièces ).


Same for the re edited Patek 5070 i the 4 metals... Which are priced, for the yellow gold and the white gold, much higher than the current 5170. What does that mean? That Patek himself better values the 5070 than the 5170? That the 5070 is better than the 5170? That those who bought the current 5170 were wrong, and that they should better have hunted a 5070? Dangerous and somewhat ridiculous, not to say suicidal, in my opinion, once again.

The Patek Philippe 5070G, " first generation ".


When a model is out, it is definitely out of production, or it should better be.

-> Excellent relations with your customers.

Not only when there is an issue to solve, but also when there is nothing to repair... Events, dinners, taking news from time to time, in a desinterested way, just for the pleasure. Like if you were an important person.

Because you are an important person! It is not like you were buying some bread at your favourite baker!

And when there  is an issue, a royal treatment is mandatory and expected, of course.

That is the price to pay from the luxury industry, and not only the luxurious price to pay from the Customer. Luxury is mutual, not only one way.

In conclusion, I would say that the guidelines for a brand which claims to belong to the Luxury World should all be about the product, fair and responsible, the way you communicate on it, and the way you treat your Customer.

Don't get me wrong, I am trying to think about a better world where to live our passion, to suggest some improvements from a collector's point of view. I am very conscient that these lines won't touch the global market, even though...

What is your view on that?

Best,

Nicolas
This message has been edited by amanico on 2015-06-01 00:05:37

About the Panerai PAM00127 - Luminor Marina 1950 Ref. PAM127

The Panerai PAM00127 Luminor Marina 1950 represents a pivotal moment in the brand s modern renaissance, embodying the authentic spirit of the legendary timepieces that equipped Italian Navy frogmen during World War II. This reference pays homage to the original 1950 Luminor design while incorporating contemporary horological excellence, making it a cornerstone piece for collectors seeking genuine military heritage combined with modern reliability. The 1950 case profile distinguishes itself from standard Luminor models through its refined proportions and historically accurate dimensions, establishing this reference as a bridge between Panerai s storied past and its technical evolution.

At the heart of the PAM00127 beats the manually-wound Caliber P.2002, a sophisticated movement that showcases Panerai s commitment to in-house horological development. This robust caliber delivers an impressive power reserve while maintaining the brand s signature reliability standards, featuring meticulous finishing that reflects traditional Swiss watchmaking principles. The movement s architecture pays respect to historical marine chronometer designs, with its manual winding mechanism connecting the wearer to the tactile experience of naval timekeeping traditions.

The 47mm stainless steel case houses a commanding black dial that exemplifies Panerai s legendary legibility, enhanced by the iconic sandwich construction and luminous markers that ensure readability in extreme conditions. The fixed bezel and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating complement the watch s tool-watch DNA, while the 300-meter water resistance maintains its aquatic credentials. For collectors, the PAM00127 occupies a significant position as an essential reference within the Luminor Marina 1950 collection, representing both historical authenticity and modern horological achievement that appeals to enthusiasts of military-inspired timepieces and Italian design heritage.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal. P2002
Case
steel case
Diameter
47mm
Dial
black dial
Water Resist.
300m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
CR
crown comfort
Jun 1, 2015

let's hope the various Marketing, Service and Product departments will read it, print it and live it. May I add one thought: A watch is not luxurious because you find (and pay) some celebrity to promote a watch or put his or her name on it. Neither are football clubs adding any value. In fact, I know of people who stopped buying Audi cars after they sponsored ManU players. Customers of luxury watches are well-educated and often appreciate understatement. The money is better spend on service and

RN
rnaden
Jun 1, 2015

The luxury brands need to pay heed - in essence, luxury is an experience, not just a product, although it starts with a product. When people buy into a luxury product, they expect that the support, the service and the overall experience is top notch, and it shouldn't be tied to the price one pays - for example, whether I buy an AP RO in steel or an ROO in gold, the experience would be an AP experience, just like in the automotive world, there is no difference in treatment whether one buys a 3ser

MA
Mark in Paris
Jun 1, 2015

First, I'd like to say that "is it a luxury brand or not" is really not something important to me when considering watches. Yet, I imagine it must have an "invisible" influence on my behavior. What should be the guidelines for a brand which claims to make luxury watches? This is what to me is the "luxury" in watches today (and not what it "should"): Price : I'll keep this > 5000 USD threshold. But it is not the only crieteria of course (thus the need of the marketting criteria) Marketting : I

IK
ik2000
Jun 1, 2015

I think that your lines before really sum up the world today. I too was also hung up on the old notion that luxurious brands will always give luxurious treatment... but the game has changed now, there is enough wealth willing to spend on these products, that there is not as much a need to 'care' about the soft skills of a brand: "A long time ago luxury was synonymous of rare and great taste. Now it is more rare and shiny (thus artificial in many ways). See, I don't have a fun idea of what luxury

AR
Ares501 - Mr Green
Jun 1, 2015

something you actually don't need not even for next generation :) but you just can live without it LOL Seriously two major points for me Education & Relations with Customers cos I fail badly in Marketing department ;) Nice post my friend Yours D

TH
TheMadDruid
Jun 1, 2015

Anything which is more than necessary would be a luxury. And by extension, anything costing more than the cheapest reliable example of a product would be a luxury. So, if there are enough $20.00 Fossil watches to go around for all who feel a need to wear a watch, then a $30 or $40 Fossil would be a luxury. I think this is the distillation of a train of thought running through this thread. Nico; I believe you are not attempting to define what is or is not a luxury item-rather what you should expe

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