Luxury Watch White Metals Guide

quattro · 2026-03-22T18:25:55Z

Explore the diverse world of white metals in luxury watches, from platinum and titanium to palladium and proprietary alloys like Omega's Canopus Gold. Discover collector insights and unique references.

quattro

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

66 replies1508 views33 photos

Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, initiates a crucial discussion on the diverse world of white metals in horology. His comprehensive list, featuring both common and esoteric materials, serves as an invaluable resource for collectors seeking to understand the aesthetic and technical nuances of these alloys. This collaborative effort invites the community to expand upon his foundational work, enriching the collective knowledge of watch enthusiasts.

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Our dear Ronald Held recently suggested that a thread dedicated to white metals was long overdue. So, here's one.

The list I have compiled is as follows (in “alphabetical” order). It is certainly incomplete: so please feel free to suggest other white metals and I will add to it as we go along: it will be a collaborative effort.

Aluminium
Canopus gold
Nickel
Palladium
Platinette
Platinum
Silver 925
Stainless steel
Carburised steel
Tantalum
Titanium
High-Intensity Titanium
Titanium & Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG)
Ceramised titanium
White gold (rhodium plated)
White gold (gray gold)

I tried to choose watches that aren't shown too often.

And, of course, tell us which white metal is your favorite!

Best, Emmanuel

Credit to all watches except otherwise mentioned : Monochrome

ALUMINIUM

CENTIGRAPHE SPORT, REF. CTS

credit: A Collected Man

CANOPUS GOLD

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER MOONWATCH PROFESSIONAL CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER, REF. 310.60.42.50.02.001

Canopus Gold is a proprietary alloy, made of 75% of gold, 20% of palladium, and 5% of rhodium and platinum.

NICKEL

OMEGA 1920s POCKET WATCH

credit: TrodelTony on Etsy

PALLADIUM

CARTIER TANK MC SKELETON

credit: Equation du Temps

PLATINETTE

INGERSOLL 1920s WRIST WATCH

Inside the case back, the case material is mentioned as “Platinette - Pure white throughout”, the name given for a specific white metal alloy (other companies had their own variations such as silveroid and silverine).

credit: sellingantiques.co.uk

PLATINNUM

DANIEL ROTH TOURBILLON PLATINUM, REF. DAAG01A1

SILVER 925

TUDOR BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT 925, REF. M79010SG-0001

STAINLESS STEEL

IWC PORTOFINO CHRONOGRAPH 39, REF. IW391503

CARBURISED STEEL

FERDINAND BERTHOUD RÉGULATEUR SQUELETTE FB RS

TANTALUM

NICOLAS DELALOYE RENAISSANCE TANTALUM 39MM

TITANIUM

HANHART 417 TI DESERT PILOT LIMITED EDITION, REF. H701L.250-1715

HIGH-INTENSITY TITANIUM

GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE HI-BEAT 36000 GMT 44GS 55TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION, REF. SBGJ255

High-Intensity Titanium is the name of an alloy Grand Seiko uses on the vast majority of its titanium-cased watches: this alloy looks closer to steel.

TITANIUM & BULK METALLIC GLASS (BMG)

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR OPENWORKED 150TH ANNIVERSARY, REF. 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01

CERAMISED TITANIUM

CHOPARD L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE BLACK, REF. 168574-3008

WHITE GOLD (RHODIUM-PLATED)

PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL CALENDAR REF. 5205G-001

credit: Stories of Time

WHITE GOLD (GRAY GOLD)

VACHERON CONSTANTIN TRADITIONNELLE COMPLETE CALENDAR, REF. 4010T/000G-B740

About the F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Ref. centigraphe

The F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain represents the brand s approach to chronograph complications within the Souverain collection. This reference features the specialized caliber 1506 movement and carries the distinctive Centigraphe designation, positioning it as F.P. Journe s chronograph offering in their manual-winding lineup.

The 40mm case is crafted from 18k rose gold and fitted with a sapphire crystal. The silver dial provides the backdrop for the chronograph functions. The manual-winding caliber 1506 movement delivers an 80-hour power reserve. Water resistance is rated to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap. The fixed bezel maintains clean proportions around the case perimeter.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking F.P. Journe s interpretation of chronograph mechanics in precious metal construction. Production began in 2007, establishing this as part of the contemporary F.P. Journe catalog. The Centigraphe attracts those interested in independent watchmaking combined with traditional manual-winding chronograph complications, offering substantial power reserve within the 40mm rose gold case format.

Specifications

Caliber: 1506

Case: 18k Rose Gold

Diameter: 40 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Cartier has historically utilized palladium in models like the Santos, Cle, and Pasha, a material also seen in watches from Parmigiani and MB&F.
A distinction should be made between rhodium-plated white gold and 'gray gold,' as some collectors appreciate the warmer patina of aged rhodium plating, while others prefer the consistent color of gray gold.
Titanium is highly valued for its lightweight comfort on the wrist, while tantalum is admired for its distinctive bluish-gray hue.
Stainless steel was once considered a premium material when many watch cases were made of less noble metals like nickel or chrome-plated brass.
Grand Seiko utilizes a special alloy that presents as a light, white metal with a gold-like appearance.
The Hanhart chronograph movement shares architectural similarities with the upcoming Purists 25 Lebois, prompting a question about whether they utilize the same or a similar caliber.

The Discussion

Champthekid

Mar 22, 2026

I honestly like all of them, but…

that AP perpetual is my favorite of the bunch👍. The FB is a strong second.

quattro

Mar 22, 2026

Good choice!

These two watches are not my kind because I don’t respond to the openwork aesthetic, but of course I understand their appeal. Best, Emmanuel

Champthekid

Mar 22, 2026

I’m not big on openwork either.

I’ve actually never owned one, but I would make an exception for that AP perpetual and the VC perpetual in white gold. The 4300V/220G-B946. 👍

quattro

Mar 23, 2026

I certainly can understand your choices!

AuHavrePro

Mar 22, 2026

What a selection of special watches....

But, I got to admit, if I could just grab one and not look back, it would have to be the F.B. - that octagonal case with the movement and spectacular finishing/details would keep my love affair going endlessly

quattro

Mar 22, 2026

I love the octagonal case, but the open dial not so much.

Delaloye or VC for me here. Best, Emmanuel