Luxury Watch White Metals Guide
Reference Guide

Luxury Watch White Metals Guide

By quattro · Mar 22, 2026 · 66 replies
quattro
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
66 replies1508 views33 photos
f 𝕏 in 💬 🔗

Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, initiates a crucial discussion on the diverse world of white metals in horology. His comprehensive list, featuring both common and esoteric materials, serves as an invaluable resource for collectors seeking to understand the aesthetic and technical nuances of these alloys. This collaborative effort invites the community to expand upon his foundational work, enriching the collective knowledge of watch enthusiasts.

Our dear Ronald Held recently suggested that a thread dedicated to white metals was long overdue. So, here's one.

The list I have compiled is as follows (in “alphabetical” order). It is certainly incomplete: so please feel free to suggest other white metals and I will add to it as we go along: it will be a collaborative effort.

  • Aluminium
  • Canopus gold
  • Nickel
  • Palladium
  • Platinette
  • Platinum
  • Silver 925
  • Stainless steel 
  • Carburised steel
  • Tantalum
  • Titanium
  • High-Intensity Titanium
  • Titanium & Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG)
  • Ceramised titanium
  • White gold (rhodium plated)
  • White gold (gray gold)

I tried to choose watches that aren't shown too often.

And, of course, tell us which white metal is your favorite!

Best, Emmanuel

Credit to all watches except otherwise mentioned : Monochrome 


ALUMINIUM

CENTIGRAPHE SPORT, REF. CTS



credit: A Collected Man


CANOPUS GOLD

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER MOONWATCH PROFESSIONAL CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER, REF. 310.60.42.50.02.001

Canopus Gold is a proprietary alloy, made of 75% of gold, 20% of palladium, and 5% of rhodium and platinum.





NICKEL

OMEGA 1920s POCKET WATCH



credit: TrodelTony on Etsy


PALLADIUM

CARTIER TANK MC SKELETON



credit: Equation du Temps


PLATINETTE

INGERSOLL 1920s WRIST WATCH

Inside the case back, the case material is mentioned as “Platinette - Pure white throughout”, the name given for a specific white metal alloy (other companies had their own variations such as silveroid and silverine). 



credit: sellingantiques.co.uk


PLATINNUM

DANIEL ROTH TOURBILLON PLATINUM, REF. DAAG01A1






SILVER 925

TUDOR BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT 925, REF. M79010SG-0001






STAINLESS STEEL

IWC PORTOFINO CHRONOGRAPH 39, REF. IW391503






CARBURISED STEEL

FERDINAND BERTHOUD RÉGULATEUR SQUELETTE FB RS






TANTALUM

NICOLAS DELALOYE RENAISSANCE TANTALUM 39MM






TITANIUM

HANHART 417 TI DESERT PILOT LIMITED EDITION, REF. H701L.250-1715






HIGH-INTENSITY TITANIUM

GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE HI-BEAT 36000 GMT 44GS 55TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION, REF. SBGJ255

High-Intensity Titanium is the name of an alloy Grand Seiko uses on the vast majority of its titanium-cased watches: this alloy looks closer to steel.






TITANIUM & BULK METALLIC GLASS (BMG)

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR OPENWORKED 150TH ANNIVERSARY, REF. 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01






CERAMISED TITANIUM

CHOPARD L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE BLACK, REF. 168574-3008






WHITE GOLD (RHODIUM-PLATED)

PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL CALENDAR REF. 5205G-001




credit: Stories of Time 


WHITE GOLD (GRAY GOLD)

VACHERON CONSTANTIN TRADITIONNELLE COMPLETE CALENDAR, REF. 4010T/000G-B740





About the F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Ref. centigraphe

The F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain represents the brand s approach to chronograph complications within the Souverain collection. This reference features the specialized caliber 1506 movement and carries the distinctive Centigraphe designation, positioning it as F.P. Journe s chronograph offering in their manual-winding lineup.

The 40mm case is crafted from 18k rose gold and fitted with a sapphire crystal. The silver dial provides the backdrop for the chronograph functions. The manual-winding caliber 1506 movement delivers an 80-hour power reserve. Water resistance is rated to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap. The fixed bezel maintains clean proportions around the case perimeter.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking F.P. Journe s interpretation of chronograph mechanics in precious metal construction. Production began in 2007, establishing this as part of the contemporary F.P. Journe catalog. The Centigraphe attracts those interested in independent watchmaking combined with traditional manual-winding chronograph complications, offering substantial power reserve within the 40mm rose gold case format.

Specifications

Caliber
1506
Case
18k Rose Gold
Diameter
40 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
CH
Champthekid
Mar 22, 2026

that AP perpetual is my favorite of the bunch👍. The FB is a strong second.

AU
AuHavrePro
Mar 22, 2026

But, I got to admit, if I could just grab one and not look back, it would have to be the F.B. - that octagonal case with the movement and spectacular finishing/details would keep my love affair going endlessly

JP
Jp75
Mar 22, 2026

Great Idea; I really like the AP and the VC A propos metals: maybe distinguish between the various grades of titanium? Maybe also between the white gold (with coating) likepatrk before 2000 vs the grey gold (massive, no coating) like patek after 2007? Best Jerome

BR
Bruno.M1
Mar 22, 2026

It’s blue - grey The Delaloye is a nice watch but the tantalum looks less blue So a weak spot for the tantalum journe But … platinum is sooooo good I think I like all the material you mentioned 😀

BR
bruckner4
Mar 22, 2026

I'll opt for the plat. Roth, quattro.

QU
quattro
Mar 22, 2026

These two watches are not my kind because I don’t respond to the openwork aesthetic, but of course I understand their appeal. Best, Emmanuel

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