Best Luxury Dive Watches Comparison
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Best Luxury Dive Watches Comparison

By Cookies · Jul 31, 2021 · 45 replies
Cookies
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
45 replies13082 views9 photos
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In a compelling discussion, WatchProSite contributor Cookies initiates a deep dive into the world of luxury dive watches, challenging the community to identify the 'best-of-the-best' for a discerning hobbyist technical diver. Cookies thoughtfully outlines five critical design components, from water resistance to after-sales serviceability, providing a robust framework for evaluating top contenders. This article synthesizes the community's expert opinions, offering valuable insights for both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts navigating the complex landscape of high-performance dive timepieces.

Good day everyone, thought about dive watches today and these 10 great pieces in today's market immediately came to my mind.

Please help chip in your thoughts on which are the best-of-the-best and could-be-best, and what watches should be included=D.

To limit the scope of the post, let's imagine a hypothetical scenario where one is a weekend hobbyist diver, who does some "technical" diving at times (night dives, cave dives, deeper dives on mixed-gases). What would he/she want in the design. Here are the 5 components:

1) High Water Resistance
2) Great legibility
3) A great dive bezel
4) A proper strap system with preferably a dive strap extension system 
5) After-sales Serviceability

Here are some I can immediately think of:

1) Blancpain X Fathoms
2) Blancpain 500 Fathoms
3) Omega Seamaster Professional 
4) Tudor Pelagos
5) Rolex Seadweller
6) Glashutte Original SeaQ Big Date
7) Panerai Submersible
8) Doxa Sub300 
9) Sinn U1
10) Breitling Supercoean





Blancpain 500 Fathoms, Source: Blancpainblog

The BP 500 Fathoms never fails to make my jaw drop. It is suitable for saturation diving with the Helium Escape Crown at 11pm. Unlike the FF with the odd 23mm lug widths, this has a 24mm lug with, making it easier to source for aftermarket rubber/tropic straps. I like the movement too. The only things that makes me hold back on purchasing this is the size  (48mm) and the price (north of 25k USD). Mamma mia!





Omega Seamaster Professional. Source: Hodinkee

Watching a Netflix programme on saturation diving, I saw a saturation diver on a North Sea saturation dive using an Omega SM Professional 300. I guess he really uses the Helium Escape Valve. I think this is most perfect design so far in terms of functionality, size, and pricing. Movements used are great too.

 




Tudor Pelagos. Source: Luxuo

Made of titanium and featuring a lightweight case in titanium, this could be the perfect diver. It has a Helium Escape Valve, and a nifty dive extension bracelet. It ranks very highly on my list of best divers.Only gripe is the ceramic bezel (it seems to be ceramic bonded to titanium - not a perfect bezel design). But the luminosity of the bezel is 2nd to none. 




Rolex Seadweller. Source: Hodinkee

Wow, this has got to be on the list. I wanted to include the submariner, but it seems the recent grey market prices for the submariner have exceeded the more capable brother, the Seadweller with Red Wordings. I'd have utmost trust in using this for diving. Would have preferred they kept the aluminium bezel instead of using the ceramic bezel (because of how ceramic bezels are made and bonded to steel, it isn't a perfect design). But as long as it doesn't fall off, it's fine.  Love the bracelet design too with the ratcheting microadjustors.






Credit: Hautetime

I tried to love the Panerai submersible. It remains on my mind frequently, but I am still unlikely to purchase one. I like the rubber strap, the supreme legibility, and the bezel (especially the solid metal bezels, which remind me of the Big Egyptian piece).  If they created a 42-25mm piece with a Helium Escape Valve, if the La Bomba shrunk a little, I'd beeline to the e-boutique for an immediate purchase. But in the real world, resources are finite, so I had to purchase another piece with more technical plus-points. But sadly, the La Bomba is out of production and a little bigger than I can wear. But in my dreams I'd wear this for diving. It is beautiful, hauntingly beautiful.






Source: Timeandtide

The Glashutte Original SeaQ big date is a really really beautiful dive watch. The straps are great, and the bracelet has a great dive adjustor. I have seen this piece in real life and it ranks very high on my list of Best-of-the-Best. I wish they released the 39.5mm version with a 300m instead of 200m Water Resistance (pretty strange they seem to have done that on purpose, perhaps to gravitate people to the larger Big Date version, but to the consumer, it seems like they didn't think for the customer even when they could have easily done it).





Source: Professionalwatches

This Doxa Carbon 300 is simply breathtaking. I really like the legibility of the dial, with the contrast coloured minute hand. I heard it is really lightweight too. Pity that the sales/AD network is quite limited on Doxa that one cannot see it in real life.   




Source: Hodinkee

The Sinn U1 could be the top contender. Great legibility, lots of straps, tough metal. But I once held back on purchasing one, because the crown seemed very feeble (needle-like) when I pulled it out to adjust the date. If they fixed that, and also a better dive extension micro-adjuster, I think this may be among the most perfect pieces to me.






Source: Monochrome

Great design, tonnes of strap options, and good value. But I don't know why I have not gotten it yet? Maybe the competition is too strong from other brands with the nautical history. Maybe the pieces are too similar to other designs, lacking a distinct design DNA. I don't know why I did not get it, but I should start liking this.


About the Doxa Ref. Sub300

The Doxa SUB 300 is a notable offering within the brand's collection, distinguished by its relatively slender profile compared to some of its counterparts. This reference is recognized for its adherence to chronometer standards, indicated by its COSC certification, which assures a high degree of timekeeping precision. It represents a contemporary interpretation that balances historical design cues with modern horological requirements.

This particular SUB 300 model features a stainless steel case, typically measuring around 42.5mm in diameter, though its design contributes to a perception of reduced thickness on the wrist. It is powered by an automatic movement, often a variant of the ETA 2824-2, which provides a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, enhancing its durability and scratch resistance, and offers a water resistance rating suitable for its intended use.

For collectors, the SUB 300 appeals to those seeking a robust and precise tool watch with a distinct aesthetic. Its COSC certification adds a layer of technical appeal, positioning it as a reliable performer. The design, while contemporary, maintains a clear lineage to Doxa's heritage, making it a relevant piece for enthusiasts interested in the brand's evolution and its commitment to certified accuracy.

Specifications

Caliber
ETA 2824-2
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
42.5mm
Dial
Orange
Water Resist.
300m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
CO
Cookies
Jul 31, 2021

Blancpain FF is the most beautiful. Ceramic domed bezel, nice polished case. It is almost like the Ferrari of Dive Watches. Submariner is the quintessential piece. If they have the kermit with aluminium bezel, and the newer bracelet design. It will take the top spot for the Best Dive Watch ever. Sigh, the trading price of the new starbucks sub is USD20k recently. Sigh. Have a good week Sir.

AG
agyzace
Jul 31, 2021

The 5015 FF is the perfect diver under water, due to incomparable legibility of the relevant information and easiness to manipulate the bezel. All the best, Alex

CF
cfdfire
Jul 31, 2021

a piece I've always enjoyed

CO
Cookies
Jul 31, 2021

It has an incredible design behind it. I just read the review on it, and it is mindblowing how they used magnets to set the time. Ingenious design. It is a pretty expensive piece too, at 4.8k Euros, but worth it, due to the research costs for this pioneering piece. Credit: Hodinkee

CO
Cookies
Jul 31, 2021

U know I really like it and bought it once. Would prefer a solid steel bezel for it though. I still had so many great memories with that loud alarm underwater. How about this: Credit: GPHG If the re-released this today, it would still be a great piece.

FA
Fastwong
Jul 31, 2021

Why? Because all the other watches can make great daily wearers but the x fathoms is so extreme it kinda needs an excuse to wear, it needs to be around water to look at home. I wish I had the $ and mind to have bought an X Fathoms when I lived in the Caribbean and was diving every week. That would have been an amazing watch to live with and experience in that environment and then to keep as a memory of those good times years later when wearing any of the other watches on the list for the mundane

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