Amanico, a connoisseur of astronomic timepieces, offers his initial impressions of the Louis Moinet Starman. His detailed analysis, based on official images and specifications, delves into the watch's ambitious design, contrasting its modern case with more traditional dial elements. This article provides a crucial first look at a significant independent release, inviting collectors to consider its place within the broader landscape of celestial complications.
You probably know my passion for astronomic watches, a theme which is absolutely not new, as it has already been made by some brands, since the 90's and the early 2000's. Have a look at Ulysse Nardin, with the Trilogy, Patek, with the Celestial, or Jaeger Lecoultre since 2009 with the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication and / or the Tourbillon CĂ©leste. Some Independents are playing this game, such as Louis Moinet; with the " Starman " we'll now have a look at.
Let me start with a disclaimer: I only received some official photos and a short text introducing this Starman. I really think this is the kind of watch you have to see in person to fully understand and feel it. So, I will try to sum up my first feelings, here, in four words: A blend of styles.
Have a look at the case, the bezel and the dial(s): You have a mix of modernity, with a daring design of the case and the bezel, without forgetting the hands, contrasting with a more traditional style for the dial(s) with a touch of originality.
As for the case, it is huge: 47, 4 mm, much bigger than the Ulysse Nardin and Patek, and even bigger than the Jaeger Lecoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication which is 45 mm, or the tourbillon Céléeste, which is 43 mm.
The lugs make me think of the Jaeger Lecoultre Master Grande Tradition, with a notable difference, they are hollowed. I don't have any official precisions about the height, but it seems important. The water resistance is 30 meters.
The bezel reminds me a bit of a IWC Ocean 2000, or some other creations from the 80's, quite aggressive with its six screws all around the case.
The hands are a kind of modernized Dauphine style, too.
The dials play a different and more classic partition. Yes, this is not a bad typo, you read well, there are two dials.
The recto is the main dial, with the time, the sky chart and the Tourbillon. Louis Moinet opted for two different meteorites here. The Jbilet Winselman, at twelve o'clock, with its dark grey black-ish color, and, for the base of the main dial, the most famous Gibeon treated in a blue hue. Superb.
Above this meteorite dial, you have another one, made of sapphire crystal, on which is depicted the sky chart. The touch of originality lies in the fact that the constellations are treated with a blue lume, matching with the hands.
Is there a true novelty, exclusive to Moinet? No. Lange & Sohne did it with the Lange One Moonphase " Lumen " and more recently, Jaeger Lecoultre with the Tourbillon CĂ©leste:
The Jaeger Lecoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon CĂ©leste.
The Louis Moinet Starman:
Last but not least, you have the Flying Tourbillon, which is nicely made and designed, but was it mandatory, here?
Indeed, if the purpose of this watch is to pay homage to, or to celebrate the Universe, the use of meteorites is spot on, as well as the constellations treated with some luminous material, I don't see the presence of a Tourbillon so evident or logical. Ok you can mention the fact that the Tourbillon was made in order to fight against gravity effects, but it is a bit " far fetched ", here.
If I was a bit provocative, but you know me, I am not, I would say that the presence of a Tourbillon justifies a higher price. I would even go farther,on that matter, and I would bring the same criticism than for the JLC Tourbillon CĂ©leste: Adding a Tourbillon tends to demonstrate that Louis Moinet, and Jaeger Lecoultre, don't believe in the interest of a celestial watch alone, which is unfortunate.
The other surprise is on the verso of the watch. You will see a second dial, with the sun in the center and the planets all around, in their exact position on the 21th of March, 2013, the day Louis Moinet stated that they were the " inventors of the Chronograph, in 1816, with the Compteur de Tierces ". I am always prudent with this kind of statement, which needs to be discussed and checked...
The good news? If you want to have the planets aligned on an important event in your life, you can ask Moinet, they will do it for you.
As for the movement, I don't have much information: It is a two barrels manual winding movement, beating at the pace of 28, 800 vibrations per hour, offering a power reserve of 40 hours. The level of finishings seems to be industrial, and I don't know if it is in house or outsourced.
As I said at the very beginning of this small review, this watch needs to be seen in person before any final judgement. Though, there are some details I like a lot, such as the two astronomic dials. I am less sure about the bezel and the case shape and proportions ( a celestial watch doesn't need to be very big ), and I would prefer this kind of watch without a Tourbillon...
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,
Best,
Nicolas
